I might be getting crower 403’s for free. I’ll probably just need to buy the valve springs/retainers and install them.
do I need to pull the head off? I don’t think I do, but a few people told me I do.
What tools do I need?
3.How long will it take? I am an intermediate level mechanic, with access to a lot of tools.
any tricks to it?
should I have posted this in the teg help board?
thanks for any help.
:uhoh:
If you don’t take off the head, what will happen to your valves once the keepers/retainers/springs are gone? Gravity is just one of those things you can’t get away from. 
Yes, you’ll need to take off the head.
Tools: Good metric socket set (10mm thru prolly 17mm at least, ideal would be 8-19), breaker bar (you’ll need a big one for those head studs, they’re torqued down pretty nicely), extensions for said breaker, ratchet, umm…pretty much a full socket/breaker/ratchet set with extensions, and you’ll NEED (not an option) a torque wrench for puttin it back together. You’ll also NEED new head and valve cover gaskets. DO NOT re-use the old ones. Don’t forget a valve spring compressor, most auto parts stores carry them if you don’t have one, mine was like 15 bucks. Not too bad. The most important tool you MUST HAVE for this project and can’t do it without, however, is the Helms Manual. Yay. Timing gun/light is also a plus (you have to take off the timing belt, be sure and not get any oil on it cause oil with belts is a bad combo).
Eh, it’s a good Saturday project if you start early enough. Make sure you get the helms section about the cylinder head and you’ll be golden. If you take your time, Saturday/Sunday will be plenty of time but it can be done in 5-6 hours if you’re mechanically inclined.
Tricks…umm…don’t drink too many beers till after you’re done.
Hey, ya got an answer so I wouldn’t worry. But it’s prolly a good idea to keep tech/repair type stuff in the help forum. Oh wellz. No harm done. 
HTH
(I don’t THINK i’ve forgotten anything, but if i have someone smack me)
If you do not have Vtec and just an LS motor, you do not have to pull your head off.
You need: In car valve spring compressor, air compressor, an extension that goes into your sparkplug socket; (this is hooked up to the air compressor, and air is pumped into your combustion chamber to keep your valves in place)
19mm with a long extension to turn the crank, 12mm, 10mm, small hammer, valve cover gasket, cam seal if you haven’t already changed it, spark plug grommets, spark plug socket…I think thatz it…
Thanks you guys. it is an ls motor
Is the incar valve spring compressor a special one or is it the same as the other ones?
can I get that spark plug adapter from, say, Snap-on?
Will I still have to be careful not to push thr valve in or will it be held pretty tightly against the valve seat at 90 psi?
Sorry about getting so specific, I hate surprises.
I think in car compressor is specific…not sure…any of your questions I’m not too sure about. Sorry!
You will also need a 14mm for the tensioner.
Yes, the in car spring compressor is a special one. The snap on site should have it.
if it helps, the in-car compressor (which i actually used, just took the head off–it was on the b16 i’m completely rebuilding) looks a lot like a jaw puller (BUT THAT’S NOT WHAT YOU USE.). LOOKS like one.
ZoomIntegra, THANKS for the Online Helms Manual! Whoohoo I got so much info on my motor!!!
ARCHIVETHIS
Originally posted by Gerok
ZoomIntegra, THANKS for the Online Helms Manual! Whoohoo I got so much info on my motor!!!
hehe no prob…it’ll be even easier to find now that i actually got the vb code right. 
Originally posted by E-DA9
[B]If you do not have Vtec and just an LS motor, you do not have to pull your head off.
You need: In car valve spring compressor, air compressor, an extension that goes into your sparkplug socket; (this is hooked up to the air compressor, and air is pumped into your combustion chamber to keep your valves in place)
19mm with a long extension to turn the crank, 12mm, 10mm, small hammer, valve cover gasket, cam seal if you haven’t already changed it, spark plug grommets, spark plug socket…I think thatz it… [/B]
why does the compressed air techinque not work on vtec engines?
As far as I know it does work. I have even seen pics of some guys changing an ITR’s valvesprings using this method.
the compressed air method should work on vtec engines as well—thats not the problem. I believe the reason you have to remove the head is the actual placement of the valve springs. On non vtec engines the valve springs are accessable once you pull of the valve cover. I saw a cross section of a vtec head once and from the looks of it the only way you could actually access the valve spings and pull them out was from the bottom—meaning the head had to be removed.
and i’m looking at my manual right now, and it says to remove the valve springs on a vtec engine the head must first be removed.
for my b16, i took the head off (well being that it’s going to portflow it seemed like a good idea ;)) but i still used the in-car compressor. it was a BIT of a pain (read: took maybe 15 minutes longer) but was actually, to me, a bit easier than trying to fug with the bulky clamp-style compressor. iono, just my personal opinion.
A little insurance: Make sure each piston is at TDC when you are working on the valves for that cylinder. A man never knows when an air hose blow out or power outtage will ruin his day!!!