hey there just wanted to get some feedback on your thoughts about my all motor setup…here is what i currently have and whats going in…i drive my car daily and go to the track twice a week…i am shooting for 200whp minimum for my n/a setup…if you guys have any suggestions please feel free to let me know.
CURRENT MODS: '92 ls/vtec
b16 head
aem c.a.i.
aem cam gears
unorthodox pulley kit
airmass header
fuel press. reg.
thermal cat back
test pipe
v-afc
WHATS GOING IN:
je 11:1 pistons
eagle rods
skunk2 cams
skunk2 springs/retainers
port & polish
3 angle valve job
holley throttle body 62mm - port matched to intake manifold
holley fuel pump
hondata stage 2 - replacing v-afc
and there it is… let me know what you guys think!..thanks again
i have a b16 intake manifold and the reason i chose skunk stuff is cause ive heard its good and seen it in a integra and was impressed with the dyno results which showed good numbers…why do you ask??
Never had a block girdle on my B17A. It came stock on the B18C motors though for sure.
AMERIKAN is correct when it helps to strengthen the bottom end of the block. I believe that the reason why Honda used them on the B18C motors is because of the not so ideal R/S ratio characteristics of the motor (1.58). Not so ideal R/S ratio puts a lot of thrust and stress on the bearings. When the Honda engineers design a motor they look at reliability and longevity foremost and at 8000+ rpms. The girdle helps to stabilize the crank (crank tends to shake at 7500+ rpms) when you rev the motor at high rpms and decreases the chance of spun bearings. Those building an LSVTEC with a slightly worse R/S ratio (1.54) are recommended this for the same above reason.
I have a fully built LSVTEC that I am rebuilding at the moment and I wish I can install the girdle on the bottom end, but with the deep B18C oil pan, I won’t be able to run any type of aftermarket header b/c of clearance issues with the bottom part of the header. My stock LS header barely fit with a B17A oil pan so I had to use my stock B18A oil pan to at the least fit a DC 4-2-1 which barely fits. Refer to my post about the Girdle and Injectors posted here on Engine Hybrids. HTHs.
Just to add to your list above, I would add RC 270 cc or even 310 cc injectors. You can control and tune them easily with the Hondata system you are already planning to get. Plus you will run a lower fuel pressure and that means you’re injectors will run cooler.
thanks for the feedback man you really know your stuff…i think i will go for that girdle sounds like a good thing to have…i actually already looked into injectors…i think im gonna wait on those we’ll see when the tunning gets done…as for skunk cams and valvetrain what do you think about them…AMERIKAN just wondering whats wrong with the skunk2 stuff please let me know cause my stuff isn’t finalized yet…let me know!
gen2teg: I would go with an ITR intake manifold over the Skunk2. Skunk2 is almost an exact copy of the ITR IM. The only advantage in purchasing the S2 manifold is if you are running a B18C1 motor to rid the secondaries and get more top end power. Other than that, go with the ITR, it’s cheaper and it’s by Honda. OEM stuff is really nice quality compared to a lot of other aftermarket brands.
As far as the S2 cams go, I would suggest you read this link. It’s in regards to their first batch production of cams.
Even though they have supposedly fixed the problem, and are now coming out with Stage 2 and 3 cams (I believe), I personally wouldn’t opt for the cams at this time.
If you are looking for a set of aftermarket cams, then look into the JUN 2s or Toda As.
The JUNs are more characterized as for drag racing applications. It will more than likely give you a higher peak hp number and you’ll have to rev the thing high to see the power. I would characterize the Toda cams as road racing cams and would give you more midrange (usable power) but not as high a peak hp number as the JUNs.
Both the JUN2 and Toda A tune pretty easily and will give you a stock idle compared to the more aggressive profiles on the JUN Stage 3 and Toda Spec Bs which may be a bit more lopey but still very streetable. HTHs.
thanks again for the feedback man…you seem to be very knowledgable about this stuff…the reason i chose the skunk2 cams is because they have good numbers, there was a gsr in my area that had the skunk2 cams and put out some real nice horsepower…i read that thread…they seem to have corrected that problem…as for the intake i have a b16 intake with a port matched holley throttle body on it would that not be just as good??..as for the cams you think jun 2’s are the way to go…ive looked into them they too have great hp numbers but there damn expensive and may give me only an extra 2-5 horse…thanks again for your feedback…if you have any other suggestions for me let me know…i have another question for ya!.. guess i can ask you since you know your stuff…as for the rest of my ls/vtec would it be wise to get the vtec waterpump, oil pump and vtec distributor…what im asking is that is it necessary??
All B-series water pumps have the exact same Acura part no. They all flow the same from what I’ve heard. A brand new LS pump would be fine.
As far as the oil pump goes, that is a must. Some say all B-series OIL pumps flow the same as well and have the same type of housing internally. I personally compared my stock LS oil pump to a B17A pump and the reliefs varied just a bit. But my recommendation to you, go with a VTEC oil pump. Your motor will need as much flow and pressure as it can get especially in the high rpm range. You don’t want to lose oil pressure there. It will lead to spun bearings.
Go with the VTEC distributor if you have it. But I’ve seen other LS/VTEC setups where a non-vtec distributor is used and one leg is cut off only b/c it gets in the way of the VTEC solenoid. Otherwise just make sure you have the correct OBD specific distributor depending on your year teg. HTHs. Let me know if you have any more questions.
thanks again…seems like the oil pump is a must…i am upgrading my fuel pump to a holley…what am i looking at in terms of price for the oil pump??.. the water pump is good cause i just changed my timing belt aswell as the waterpump when i did my swap so i should be o.k. there… as for my distributor my mechanic did cut off the leg so that should be o.k. cause ive had no problems with that yet…another question for you…just recently before i put my car away i had excesive white smoke coming out of my exhaust…i was told im leaking coolant…now, i was told that it could be that the head was not torqued down properly, is there anything else it may be??..in relation to this my air fuel guage when i was in 2nd gear na dredlined it to about 7800rpm would stay rich and the car would feel like it was bogging out and my check engine light would come on, i would then turn my car off and then on again and it was fine but this would happen everytime i would redline the car in 2nd gear…what do you make of this??
I missed the # teeth on the gsr water pump vs the ls pump. They do flow the same though. Just make sure you get the correct timing belt for whatever water pump you decide to get.
As far as the white smoke goes, that means a number of things, blown head gasket or you are correct, coolant is mixing with the oil somewhere.
Have not heard of running rich especially at that high of rpms. Try leaning it out a bit with the vafc. Otherwise, I don’t have a clue to what is going on there.
AMERIKAN: Does that Moroso pan sit really low? It looks like it gives a bit more clearance between the pan and where the header splits to two in your pic. Any mods needed to fit that particular pan on our G2s with the LSVTEC or CRVTEC setup? If I want to put in a header with larger primaries/tubes, it may fit with that pan. How much did you get it for and where? Thanks for the post.
