what do you guys thinks about this clutch??

i found these on ebay, if anyone has ran either one or knows someone that has. or just give me your opinion on these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7943565117&category=33730

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7944854857&category=33730

Snap! Those are some crazy ass F1 clutches, don’t ya know?

are they no good?

Oh there good alright! For drag only…would not recommend for daily driving. Unless your patient!

even the stage one is too ruff?? i would of thought the stage one would have been fine. i was just wondering if they were reliable.

its a 4 puck clutch, thats pretty crazy. I’d say a little too much for a daily driven car. I had a friend that had a 4puck clutch on his integra and his clutch didnt last too long.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33730&item=7945118107&rd=1

What about this one? i was checkin out the other one like gentouteg but i have never heard of this company… any one know bout them or if it is like the F1?

if i were you i would get the exedy organic clutch!
its most likely more than you need right now

and its the same price as those ebay ones and you wont have to deal with the harshness of the “puck” style clutches

exedy organic clutch

just go to the dealer and get an oem clutch. they take a beating. TRUST ME

no they dont i fried one in a year of owning a 95 civic put 30k on the car with 80k total clutch was shot to hell lol. (then again i do a hell of a 2nd gear burnout) a exedy organic stageI clutch will suit u fine bro slips nicely and doesnt grab instantly. aside from the fact i dont buy what i dont kno works. i wouldnt buy a brand like that. o yea btw my exedy street clutch the stage I joint lasted me 2 years,150+ passes down the 1/4 mile and outlasted 2 motors(both died to FI) beating the living hell out of that clutch. break it in 500 miles and ur straight :dance:

how do you properly break in a clutch?

dont bang out gears drive it in stop and go traffic its like breaking in a motor take it easy on the clutch because certain clutches if they dont break in correctly they wont last even race clutches

so basically to break in a clutch, for 500 miles you just drive the car normally. No burnouts, no rev matching shifts, and no powershifting right? And for how many miles :hmm:

ill soon need to order a clutch for my 91 jdm b16a…can anyone confirm that all b series clutch would fit? itd be a bitch to order one from the US and find that it cant fit

I have that clutch and an 8lbs flywheel package they had on offer. I think it was good value for money for a daily driver and the odd bit of playing arround.
I wouldnt suggest using them for race/drag purposes. For high performance stick with quality.

Maybe I’m missing something, but why is that people are always inclined to always get the stiffest and most aggressive clutch they can get their hands on?

Unless your car is laying down some serious power (i’m talking 400whp+), it’s really effort and money wasted. Not to mention the wear and tear you’ll be putting on the tranny. I’ve seen trannies blow on a stock motor w/ boltons because of the crazy 6 puck clutch the guy was running.

I ran an ACT HD pressure plate with a street disc on my LS build that put out 180whp/141lb-ft and it was perfectly fine at the drags.

I’m currently running a RPS Pro-series pressure plate with a RPS full faced disc with my b20v (expecting 230+whp) and it holds up fine as well.

Am I missing out on something here?

(this post is no attempt to flame the thread starter or anyone posting in it, but more of a “somebody inform me why”)