I am new to the club here and have been searching for threads relating to my questions but have yet to be able to find the answers I need so maybe someone out there can help me out
I have a 92 DA and I have installed a 94 b18c1 in it as well as the hydraulic tranny. In the teg tips motor swap guide it says that I will need to use a pr3 or pwo ecu. What are the differences between the two ECUs and what cars do they come from? Or could I just get a p61 ECU from a 92 GSR DA that runs the b17 or will the b17 ECU not work the B18C1? I have the computer that came from the 94 integra that I pulled the motor from and also the origional ECU from the 92 can I use one of these?
This is the last thing I need to get figured out so I can get back on the road again I miss driving my teg it has been almost a year.
hey man i just finished my jspec gsr swap in my teg and i would highy recomend the obd1 p72 out of a 94-95 gsr with that motor, your vtec will crack really hard abd you still get the stock rev, the p61 is good to because it came out of the dohc vtec car but you could also go with a p28 out of a 92-95 civic but i would get it chipped though but honestly i would try and get a obd1 p72, hit me up if you have more questions snowboarder7629@yahoo.com
You say you have the ECU from the 94 from which you pulled the engine. The stock ECU for a 94 with B18C1 is a P72 as stated in the previous posts. The ECUs that you mentioned PR3 etc. are older OBD0 ECUs. Your car and your new engine are both OBD1. You should use an OBD1 ECU, preferably the P72 so that you get the correct fuel and timing maps, the correct VTEC engagement and the correct RPM limiter plus the knock sensor and the secondary butterflies in the IM. Its the only engine that has the secondary runners in the manifold so any other ECU would not have that function. If you run a Skunk 2 or Edelbrock manifold you don’t need that function but then you have manifolds built for the high end. So it depends on your power plan. If you want best stock performance, go with the P72. B16 and B18C5 intake manifolds won’t fit just in case that may be on your mind. If your car was a non VTEC model, you need to add the ECU wiring for the VTEC functions and the knock sensor. Search this site for that information. Lastly, and don’t take this the wrong way but if your ECU from the 94 car is not a P72, then one of three things is wrong:
thanks for all the info guys. I do have the p72 Ecu that came out of the car. It was my brothers old car that some kid in a old crown vic pulled in front of him and BAM totaled and I bought the whole car for 700$. So any parts that I need are all there for the taking. I have decided to go with the skunk 2 intake so the secondaries will not be an issue .Know I am wondering if I use the p72 ECU will it throw a check engine light not having this hooked up?
I recommend that you go with the stock setup for now. Unless you are running the engine in the high RPM band and have complementary performance goodies like cams, intake, header etc. you won’t see any results from the skunk2. Your mid range torque will suffer so it will seem like less power until you get into the VTEC range. You can always upgrade relatively easily down the road. The skunk2 and edelbrock IMs are tuned for the 8-10k RPM range. As for the code on the IAB, I don’t think there is one on an OBD1 system.
I was thinking the same thing on the IAB but I was not sure I guess when I get it hooked up I will find out . I think I will do that this week and will be riding in my baby once again.
A bit more information for you. The default position for the IAB butterflies is the “closed position”. The engine vacuum holds them closed. Power to the solenoid is on. When the RPM reach just under 6000 RPM (I think its 5750), the vacuum is closed and the butterfly springs cause them to open. Power to the solenoid is off. It is this way because the springs can open the butterflies a lot faster than can the vacuum. When you are at 6000 RPM things are happening very fast so they need to open quickly. The solenoid bleeds off the vacuum at the same time. So under normal conditions vacuum is applied. You can check this by observing the mechanism on the drivers side of the IM. Start the engine, warm it up, observe the position of the diaphram, then disconnect the vacuum line to the solenoid. Its under the manifold. You should see the diaphram mechanism move. It would be opening the butterflies in the same way that that cutting the power to the solenoid does under normal high RPM. When you attach the vacuum line again the butterflies should close. Hope this helps you get a better understanding of its function.
If you want to see what it would be like with the IAB butterflies open all the time, roughly equivalent to a skunk2 or Edelbrock IM, leave the vacuum line disconnected and drive it like that.
Does anyone have pics of what he stated above? I’m not familiar with the gsr manifold, but I do plan on getting one soon. Also, where would I put the knock sensor for ls\vtec?
with an ls/vtec you do not run a knock sensor. there is no spot for one in an ls block. for that reason you will need to run a chipped p28. and if you aren’t running obd1, you’ll need to chip whatever ecu you do decide to use to not run a knock sensor.
I have not done it but I have read that guys use the knock sensor on an LS VTEC setup by using an existing hole somewhere on the block or drilling and tapping a hole for the VTEC knock sensor. Even if it is not as useful, you at least won’t get a code with the P72, P30 type ECUs. On the B18C the knock sensor is near the oil filter.
I have attached a picture of my engine. On the right on this end of the manifold is the diaphram. The linkage that connects to the butterflies is below the diaphram. The dark area directly under the manifold is where the solenoid and vacuum reservoir are. You can disconnect the vacuum at the manifold end but first make sure that it does not branch off to other necessary components like the fuel pressure regulator. I think it would be difficult to disconnect at the solenoid when the engine is in the car.
I think that is what I am going to go with as well as per the info everyone has given me and thanks again everyone for the info.
Hey teglovinvtec did you have any problems with check engine lights this is my biggest worry cause here is Georgia if you have a check engine light for any reason they will not pass you on inspection. Even if it is not emissions related. Any other info will help greatly. Thanks again in advance.
i have had cel on but because of my o2 sensor and electronic load detector but once i fixed them no light and its been like 4 months now so u should be fine
thanks for the feedback I completed my b18c1 swap a couple of weeks ago and I got to say it is running great no check engine light at all thank god. I also got the hydraulic tranny in and its working great as well took some time to fab the brackets for the master and had to modify a tranny mount but it all came together awesome vtec rocks :rockon:
I used the existing mounts from the b18a1 and I used the tranny mount from a 94 integra GSR and had to modify it to get the motor and tranny sitting level .It was easier than I was expecting but it only allows me to use three mounts instead of four. I have put almost 3000 miles on it so far and it seems to be doing great.