What else would you consider when changing out subframe? mounts, front traction bars etc.???
Does anyone know of a frame shop or anything of that nature in bay area California?
changing the subframe? are we talking about the same part? when you say subframe are you talking about the part that runs along the back of the engine bay immediately in front of the firewall?
You can go to Tepa Auto Body there in Pittsburgh
Front subframe connected to front lower control arms etc.
Pittsburg too far, car clumps/scrubbing something really bad when I try to drive it. Towing will probably be a few hundred $ to reach there from where I am.
What’s making you think the subframe needs replacing? I’d imagine you’d want to start with other, cheaper and easier items if you’re troubleshooting a problem.
When replacing that part theres nothing really attached or around it that you would replace as a ‘‘while im down here’’ type thing. If your MUST replace it get an aftermarket one like a full race or a k-tuned/etd.
Sorry for late response, I posted the car up on local craigslist about a week and a half ago because it’s giving me a headache/taking up space.
It was raining and I was taking the turn I always take with elegant graceful control and poise on the back road back home from work and it SUDDENLY slip/understeered me straight to the curb
I already changed the lower control arm, both axles, and knuckle/hub assembly on the front right side and it’s still fucked. My toe is like +40 with +5 positive camber on front right and front left is at -6 camber with toe at +10 ish. I was pointed out the subframe is bent up and also saw some of it’s welds splitting
Places are quoting me over 400$ for changing it out… total bs
I couldn’t find an aftermarket subframe as mentioned, only traction bars
Here’s a shot of the poor girl when she was healthy with just only minor health ailments.
Can you go to your local junkyard and find another subframe and replace it that way?
^ Cheapest easiest thing. Just get an alignment afterwards. Its not that difficult that I’d consider paying a shop to do it.
@mar_phi6 I was able to contact a yard that claims they got a straight no accident front sub frame for 75-125$ last week. Hopefully they still have them or more soon. I plan to get it done within a week
@rollinmyda How long would it take and is there are DIY? subframes look like a giant hefty cumbersome thing to move around. I’d prefer to not want to spend 4 hours
Honestly I wouldn’t say 4 hours would be an unreasonable amount of time to budget for a job like that. It’s not necessarily difficult but quite a few things will need to be removed before you’ll be able to get it out and then all of it will need to be reassembled. Off the top of my head I can think of quite a few things to be removed/reinstalled.
-brace between front and rear subframe will need to be removed
-exhaust will need to be dropped
-rear mount will need to be seperated from T-bracket
-steering column seperated from rack/pinion (inside the car)
-power steering lines seperated at subframe
-Front lower control arms will need to be dropped
-seperate outer tie rods from knuckle
-sway bar endlinks removed from FLCA
-probably more miscellaneous items I’m forgetting
-remove subframe
Then you’ll also need to swap everything over to the new subframe (rear mount,steering rack, sway bar, etc.) and reassemble it all. 4 hours would actually be a very ambitious timeline for me if I was doing the work but I generally take my time (AKA I’m slow) and there’s usually at least an unforeseen complication or two when removing that many components at once.
damn,
Yeah, I started to think it’ll definitely be a days work… I definitely know the random bs that can happen and make something take 2-3x longer than it should
if you cant find one local i have one. IMO wouldnt sell it looks too good to be given up. rusty beater though different story rhdxsi@gmail.com
Were u able to pick one up?
I was able to find one local for 80$
labor destroyed my wallet though.
I got it aligned and the stats came out like this
static camber with drop
BEFORE
-3 camber ALL around evenly.
2.2 caster Left 1.2 caster Right
AFTER
-4 camber front LEFT, -3.5 camber front RIGHT
-3.2 Rear Left -3.5 Rear right
2 caster Left 1 caster Right
Granted I had about 70lbs of stuff in the rear trunk and some bent wheels when it was done
As before caster was one whole point off. Camber somehow is all over the place… Hopefully it’ll be back to being more even after unloading everything and changing out the bad wheels.
Labor is like playing the tax game…oh well its life!