what head is best for a B20v setup

Ok so ive had my itr swap for some time and now feel its time to move on to the b20a or b20v.
I have a b20b block with a itr crank and have a couple questions before I start to build it. Ive heard that p72/gsr heads are best for b20v since it offers more air flow for the larger dissplacement or the 2.0. With that in mind I do have a jdm itr head with all itr internals so I wouldnt mind getting a bare p72 head and swapping all my itr cams, valves, springs everything. I know that the p72 heads have raised intake ports for a more straight air flow than the b16 head. And even though the itr head my be a bit slimmer in diameter it has more air velocity. Any truth to either side of this dilema.

Also is there any difference if I used the ITR crank instead of the stock crank for the b20. I know the LS cranks have more stroke then the gsr so is this the same?

the LS and B20b/z cranks are exactly the same.

u have a perfect ITR engine… why would u want to go b20 vtec? lol… itr offers great power and unmatched factory reliability that the b20vtec can never match… think about it… i would leave the engine stock and invest in a better transmission… sotck engine… built tranny… mfactory lsd… mfactory 4.9 final drive… and if u wanna go crazy add the mfactory 3-4 short gears… it will be redicilous acceleration… it will feel like ur itr engine is a 2.2 liter engine. u can keep ur itr 5th gear… or add an ls 5th gear for better highway gas mileage. just my two cents…:wave:

funny you mentioned to build the tranny cuz I just rebuilt My 91 JDM Y1 lsd tranny with a LS 5th and since my oem lsd went out I even went the extra $925 for a Wavetrac LSD> I had to source out a spare usdm ls tranny for parts to make the lsd fit in my jdm tranny. So my tranny is basically bullet proof and the hgihest I launch it at is 3K so its not bad.

The GSR head will raise the compression a little bit… The B16/ITR head will flow slightly better. Its a toss up between the two. But taking apart a perfectly good ITR head to put the internals in a GSR head is ridiculous. Keep the ITR head and put it on the B20.

As far as the crank… B20/LS are the exact same. If you put a Type-R or GSR crank in a B20, you would be de-stroking the motor. Not by a whole lot, but it would indeed reduce the stroke.

I agree that the ITR will probably be slightly more reliable since its an OEM motor… But if the B20V is built and assembled correctly, you can still see 100k miles out of it.

Do this… ITR Head, B20 Block/Crank/Rods. Upgrade the rod/main bolts, and get some ARP/GE/AEBS/ARP head studs while you’re at it, and go to town. Some higher compression pistons would be nice… But if you do that, then you could do new rods, and then, and then, and then… It never ends. A tuned (stock) B20V would still outrun a stock ITR, so it would be an ‘upgrade’ of sorts.

Found this pic to show the airflow of a GSR vs a B16 head. An ITR head will follow the B16 line, but be a bit better due to the hand-porting the ITRs have.

if you are gonna do a b20 vtec… do not leave the block stock… that block is not meant to rev period. doesn make sense to take apart a perfectly good ITR engine… just source a cheap 200 dollar b16 head and go fromt their… saying a stock b20v will outrun a typer is not always true… each build is different and so many things come into play… i have beaten some b20 vtecs that “CLAIM” to be built with my jdm b18c gsr with b16 trans. had a buddy who had a b20vtec… we raced… and we were dead even it was really a drivers race… the only difference is… his engine blew 3 months later and i still have my gsr running perfect… so think about it… like one of the members said on this site…


well Im just rying to prep a block as a backup incase i blow my b18c, I want a lil more tq. I think I need to step back and look at the facts I have so far. Im running pretty good and to be honest I dont think I should ruin a perfectly good itr engine. I guess I need to exhaust all avenues with what Im running now, like maybe a bigger t/b and proper tunning.
I know Im not running 100% good since my set up is obd0 with a chipped pw0 ecu, obd0 distributore, obd2 injectors, blox fpr, itr intake manifold and 62mm t/b, LS dc header with 2" collector and my exhaust is stock.
I raced a guy in a EJ coupe with a 98 spec itr swap like mine and I beat him twice by a full car, then raced a EG hatch with a b20v and got spanked by a fender.

any ideas on what else I can add to bump up the hp with out upgrading to obd1 like a bigger t/b or maybe a hondata gasket spacer. I’m getting a full catback done soon after i install a itr 4-1 replica header with a 3" collector. Im doing the catback 2.5 all the way with a tanabe hypermedallion muffler I have stored.

You basically called it… Bolt-ons like a bigger TB, bigger header/collecter, bigger exhaust… Small things like that are basically it. You can look at gearing and get a short-gear’d transmission and/or final drive swap.

Other than that, if you want actual power, you’re going to have to look at upgrading/replacing parts such as cams, etc. And once you start doing that, you might as well start from scratch & build yourself a mildly-built block.

Bolt-ons only go so far.

well u didnt beat the eg hatch because the car doesnt weight anything… around 2250 our da’s are at about 2500 2600. so drivine alone in your integra is the same weight as someone driving around in an EG HATCH with 2 small 150 pounders… or one big 300 pound fat guy lol… its all power to weight ratio. if ur that into going faster in a straight line get a small turbo setup… tune it… and keep it reliable. it’ll be almost the same… as building an engine… internal parts get expensive… qhy waste all that money for only 12 extra pounds of torque? lol kinda silly… or go turbo and get 60 plus pounds of torque… just something to think about…