whats the best header for a 91 teg with a lsvetec with a tanobe race ex . have a dc now and its cracked time for a new one this is all motor
This question has been asked sooooo many times… have you searched or done any type of research?
Most any aftermarket header will NOT clear our factory crossmember. Unless you buy one specifically for a G2 Integra, you’ll need to notch your crossmember. An aftermarket traction-bar will solve this issue.
There isn’t a huge selection of headers that clear… DC and Megan are the two that come to mind, or an eBay brand, but you gamble with fitment when going with a non-branded product.
It also depends on what your budget is… what cams/pistons/bore you’re running… Do you have a high-flow 2.5" cat? Etc etc etc.
The ‘best’ header would be one that’s proven to create results… Rage/Hytech are great, but cost a ton. Toda make a good header as well.
Basically you want something that has a 2.5" collector at the end, that will create a lot of power. As for chosing between a 4-1 and a 4-2-1 header, these days they are fairly equal and not worth really nit-picking over.
Mugen also clears the cross member ;).
And is more for looks than anything. If it clears the crossmember and is a 4-2-1 that can utilize the stock cat/exhaust placement, it was not made for power.
That’s cause it was not designed for “Max Power” than again all every one cares about is 1/4 mile times, sorry for thinking outside the box.
Getting a Mugen header is thinking outside the box? Wow you are teh brilliant!!!1!~1
Though I guess you are forgiven. Sorry for speaking the truth and hurting your feelings.
Not siding with Deceptakhan necessarily, but there’s actually a lot more to it than what’s been posted in this thread. A lot of the stuff that is “era correct” for our cars (like an older Mugen piece like you mentioned) was nice at the time but is out dated technology compared to what we have available now. There have been large advances in almost all parts that are available and probably most importantly huge advances in tuning. We used to always talk about 4-1 being for top end and and 4-2-1 being for midrange…yada yada yada but now that golden rule isn’t so valid. The difference between top end and midrange isn’t the same as it used to be. Seems more and more that tuners are able to extract really good midrange out of a header that previously we would have thought was only a top end oriented header. Same goes for exhaust diameters, we used to think 2.25" was about right and that 2.5" was almost always too big for an NA motor. Now a 2.5" exhaust is almost the industry standard for anyone building an NA motor. And that’s not just drag cars, it’s cars that need usable midrange.
10 years ago I would have thought it crazy to use a 4-1 header with 2.5" collector and full 2.5" exhaust on something like a b17a if you wanted any decent midrange. Flash forward to today and I’m running a 4-1 on the b17a in my track car and getting great midrange. Eventually I’d like to upgrade to a 2.5" exhaust and full 3" CAI as well, but at this point I have enough power and need to focus on my driving, not adding power.
Personally I would stay away from any old style headers with the exception of the Toda and the OEM ITR 4-1 (or knock offs of either). Both of those are pretty proven configurations and are the only older headers I can think of that have a 2.5" collector - which may be the most important factor at play here. But that’s if you’re going for performance. I can 100% understand wanting to stick with 100% era correct parts for a DA.
well i dont want to cut or notch so i guess my choices are limeted the motor is a 1.8 lsvtec with type r pistons and head with a 99 civic intake manifold i have a dc header in 96 there wasent alot of choices what traction bar set is good oh i have a stock cat would i beifit from a after market cat ifso which one
FullRace and EDT both make traction bars for our cars… there are a couple others, but they’re not coming to mind at the. Moment.
Yes you would benefit from an aftermarket/high-flow cat. If you get a header that is 2.5" and connect it to a 2" cat, that’s a huge bottle-neck and will decrease power. Try to keep it the same size all the way back.
Well if you do want to run a one piece header and not notch the crossmember you can drop the crossmember and bolt the header up and replace the crossmember. That’s what I did on my Teg.
well thats alot better than chopping it all up must be some lazy ones out there . well there is a hyteck copy on ebay its the long type dose any one know how much longer it is than my dc header my plan is to go with the longer header and a hiflow cat and shorten my ex so i can fit it all in any body have the header iam talking about.also
will the hyteck be lower than my dc my car is low thanks for all the help
I replaced my traction bar with innovative+front bracket engine mount and loved it so far (Thank you spoolin performance!). I have a b18a1 and got BNIB replica RMF header with 2.5" test pipe from a friend for cheap and put it on just for fun. The header ground clearance is not that low but i can tell it will not clear the stock oem crossmember at all.
I would get a aftermarket traction bar so you can get any headers you want down the road. you can get replica RMF header+test pipe for under $400 i believe and they have dyno numbers on honda-tech to give an idea. Just a suggestion.
I wouldn’t say that megan is the best , but they Definitely honor they’re warranty 
This is what I was running before I turbo. I was happy with it. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-36036/?rtype=10
I’ve got a Fullrace traction bar and I highly recommend it. Fitment is great, big improvement, and is perfect for basically any header.
Id say the Megan tri-y headers have great clearance all around, but for performance you’ll see less restriction with a 4-1 for sure.