Originally posted by Amos
what the hell is the point of db comps anyways? wow, so much bass my ear bleeds. what the hell? I’ll never get it. I guess that’s what makes me an SQ freak.
becuase spl is more fun… the ppl are better and better to work with. also its up to a mic not someone that could be biase(sp).
spl:cool:
sq:angel:
:whoa: the highest db i have heard was 155 in mt friends civic which to me is ridiculous. he only has 2 12" audiobahn 1008’s last years model. he tried to test my car and when it got to 140 i cut it off it was to damn loud for me. i have 2 12" audiobahn 1005’s on a ma audio 1800 watt amp. it sounds loud but i am more into the quality of the music. at the nopi show i sat in a car with 16 12’s and it hurt my heart, what’s the point?
Originally posted by bicsintegra
: i have 2 12" audiobahn 1005’s on a ma audio 1800 watt amp. it sounds loud but i am more into the quality of the music.
Your’re into sound quality and you have 2 audiobahns and a 1800 watt amp? Audiobahns are pretty much pure SPL subs and IMO have terrible SQ capabailites. But if you like it that’s all that matters
Originally posted by bicsintegra
:whoa: the highest db i have heard was 155 in mt friends civic which to me is ridiculous. he only has 2 12" audiobahn 1008’s last years model. he tried to test my car and when it got to 140 i cut it off it was to damn loud for me. i have 2 12" audiobahn 1005’s on a ma audio 1800 watt amp. it sounds loud but i am more into the quality of the music. at the nopi show i sat in a car with 16 12’s and it hurt my heart, what’s the point?
this was not a cerified score was it… what amp was he running? and what box… also what civic… not to be a bitch but your friend is eather tellin **** or u need to get the mic recalabrated…becuase it was realding atleast 3+db off…
adamm i am not into sound quality meaning i compete in shows or anything. I just like my music crisp and clear, hopefully next year i will be competing in the sq competitions in atlanta but i know i have to re do my entire system. Right now i have a pioneer KEH P7400 receiver which is one of the first they made with the fold down face. Ant the deq 9200 digital eq in standard mode ‘cause i only have 2 amps in my car. on thanksgiving i will put all MA Audio amps in my car(3) and put the eq in pro mode and then get all new speakers in the cabin and see what it will do in March when the season starts.
71mgb that score was an official score form a show in augusta in August. he has a 91 civic hatchback, the amp is a fosgate digital series that is all i know. he built the box with his sound team it has one huge port and accelerator panels and anything else you could possibly think of. the mic Pablo was using at that particular show was a little high but the next weekend in Perry, Ga. he hit a 153.8 and he has never come in second in his class. i will send the forum his car is on later so you could see all his numbers and what shows he has gone too. the name of his civic is lil’ hell.adamm 71mgb
Oh, okay. I thought you meant you were competeing with the bahns. That’s why I said that. 
What are you going to go with for your new stuff? Here are a few suggestions…eclipse or higher end alpine HU, focal or rainbow comps with a lot of clean power and properelly imaged kicks, an idmax, IDQ, brahama, shiva, Elemental designs A or K series… sealed enclsoure with a lot of power. Just a few suggestions 
Check out www.caraudioforum.com and www.termpro.com if you already haven’t. They are the most knowledgable with the least amount of newbs and idiots giving people wrong advice IMO.
Hook it up with the link to your freinds car. Those are pretty impressive numbers.
adamm thanks for the advice about the equipment but i want to get started in the sq street level first. it sound as if you were talking about the pro level, which i am not financially ready for yet. my friends civic is listed on slapshow.com finals results. he is the 1-160 stock champion, if you are ever on the car audio forum his screen name is dbdiablo. he said he hit a 155 on more than one occasion, i only saw him do it once on a real mic. r u in the sq pro level? where did u start? i have spoken to a couple of people into sq and they have spent serious money on their cars. I just want to start out small and get really into it when i get a toyota supra or a lexus.
Nah, I’m not an Sq guy. I used to compete in SPL but I’m kind of out of it right now. For a budget SQ system, how about this:
HU: pioneer premeir 440 or 640 /$155 shipped, $200 shipped / www.ikesound.com
Fronts: Infinity Reference components in kickpanels, Rainbow dreamline coaxs in the door, or 2 way kappa coaxs in the door /$125 shipped, $105 + shipping, $92 shipped/ www.ikesound.com / www.ampmanaudio.com / www.ikesound.com
Fronts amp: US acoustics 80x2 rms / $90 shipped/ on sale at www.thezeb.com or www.cruchfield.com Both come with 3 year warranties
Rears: no rear fill
Sub: Elemental designs k series 10" or 12" sealed enclsoure / $125 + shipping, $135 + shipping/ www.edesignaudio.com
Sub amp: Lanzar Opti SL800D (it will handle it just fine in a sealed box, that sub is ridicouloslly underrated) / $165 shipped with a full warranty / www.ebaymotors.com from “audioblowouts”
Box and Amp Rack: $50 covered in vinyl or carpet, make it your self. Research how to do it on www.termpro.com
Kick panels (if you go with the infinty components wich I reccomend you do): make them yourself, $20-$30 Reserach on www.termpro.com
Wire: Walmart 4 guage and 8 or 10 guage (seriouslly, it’s good stuff) /$35 total
Total Budget SQ system:
min: $725 shipped
max: $845 shipped
Also, remeber that you can make quite a bit of money off of your old stuff before you buy it. So if you got say…$500 out of your old stuff, you would only be spending $225-$345 more.
My new system is going to be very similar to this:
HU: Pioneer DEH-740 MP
Fronts: Rainbow dreamline coaxs
Front amp: USX 2080 (already have it)
Rear fill: none
Sub: Elemental Designs E15K
Sub amp: Lanzar opti 1000.1D (already have it)
Elcosure and Amp rack: 3.0ft^3 ported, 26 Sq. in. of port, tuned to 35 hz. Covered in black vinyl + red and black fleck paint. False floor and fiberglass panels covered in black vinyl. The amps are going to be slanted on the false floor with plexi. Its kind of hard to explain and I aplogise for the rambling.
Now…some of you may ask Why I reccomended lanzar opti and US acoustics. The answer is they are awesome amps. They are clean, reliable, built like tanks, and don’t even run warm. On top of that, they are even underrated 15-20%. The US acoustics comes with a 3 year warranty, and the opti with a full warranty as well(forgot how long). I have personally owned a Lanzar opti 1000.1 D, and a USX2080 and I can tell you from experience they are awesome budget amps. Everyone on the car audio forums that has owned one has the same opinion as me. So don’t bash them unless you have had personal experience with those lines of amps :).
Again, I apolgise for the lenghty and rambling post, I’m just siked about my new system!!! 
I shattered my front windsheild in my old 90 ls with 2 audiobahn alum12x’s and a jbl class d 300 watt mono-block amp. I have never had it measured accept by this piece that I bought from radioshack that only reads up to 126dB and I buried that.
Originally posted by accent_ac
I shattered my front windsheild in my old 90 ls with 2 audiobahn alum12x’s and a jbl class d 300 watt mono-block amp. I have never had it measured accept by this piece that I bought from radioshack that only reads up to 126dB and I buried that.
:lol: Hahaha,Did you mean you threw the subs through the window? That is complete and absolute BS :tsk:
What kind of enclosure was it in and at what frequency? Or was it just music?
It would take 160-170 DBs to shatter a front winsheild at higher frequencies. Someone in the finals hit 170 DB + with stock windows and they didn’t shatter or crack. Wich is close to 3-4 times as loud as you. Not 30% or 40%, 300%-400% over you.
Think about this: Doubling the power and cone area will theoretically give you a 6db increase (not adding 2, doubling). Now lets say you hit 135 wich would be in the range of what you have and wouldn’t even begin too break anything. So if you hit 135 or so and kept doubling like that… it would theorectically equal about 128 subs and 19,000 watts of the same setup to possiblly break a winsheild. YES 128 SUBS AND 19,000
WATTS!!!
Frequencies and shape of the winsheild play a role as well.
All of the other windows would break first and probablly the seal before the window “shattering”.
On top of all of that you could easilly die and would most definatelly be completelly deaf sitting in a car with that much pressure in it.
Why would you make up a ridiculous lie like that?
***** So after all of that being said, how did you break your front winsheild with 2 10’s and 300 watts? Please enlighten me how you acheived 160-170 + DB with that setup. *****
I tried not to be too mean and don’t take it like I’m trying to be a total dick. But come on. Shattered the front windsheild :bs:? Don’t take it personally though man…In any case, I got a good laugh, haha 
PEACE!
no offense but… just like in unlimited drag racing series… db comps = “he with the most money, wins”… but they are FREAKIN fun to watch!
Originally posted by Texas25RS
db comps = “he with the most money, wins”.
Yes I agree with you to a certain extent. But having the most money doesn’t neccasairlly mean you’re going to win. You have to spend countless hours of tuning, etc. to win
Originally posted by accent_ac
I shattered my front windsheild in my old 90 ls with 2 audiobahn alum12x’s and a jbl class d 300 watt mono-block amp. I have never had it measured accept by this piece that I bought from radioshack that only reads up to 126dB and I buried that.
:lol: :shrug:
It cracked starting from the driverside lower part and each time the song hit it kept craeking a little more. I dont know whay it cracked other than maybe it already had a small crack and the cold weather and high pressure levels played a role
With music, that setup could possibly be around 130 in higher frequencies wich is not high pressure in the least bit. It would not even begin to shatter or widen any crack in any glass in the car, let alone the front winsheild wich is by far the strongest peice of glass in the car.
A freind of mine was hitting 156’s all day with a huge ass crack all the way across his winsheild. That is about 2 and a half times the pressure that your setup would most likelly reach with music. It didn’t widen or add to the crack in the least bit.
Your subs and music had absolutelly nothing to do with your winsheild shattering, cracking, or widening any cracks.
I’m not debating wether it cracked or not.
I’m thinking the extreme cold and sudden heat from the heater blasting or something of that nature caused the winsheild to crack and or widen. But the subs played no role in the whole thing