What kind of pistons are the best for B18A motor? I have a port/polished head so I want to build my bottom half too…any good piston/rod setup? where is the best place to buy them?
I’m trying to go all N/A setup. Not looking to spend too much money into this project. If I can rev to 8000rpm or so, that’s cool.
JDM CTR pistons will yeild roughly 12.5:1, depending on head, block deck height, gasket thickness, etc… For the HP/price ratio, these do better job than say Arias, JE, SRP, Weisco, etc…
Pick them up in an 81.2mm size, and have your block bored to 81.2mm.
If you don’t want to spend too much $$, stay with stock rods. They are fine for NA applications. Just get ARP rod bolts. If not, go with Eagle rods, or Crower.
I’d stay away from reving to 8K unless you get new crankshaft bearings, rod bearings, and balance the rotating assembly. (Or toss in a B17 crank.) LS blocks aren’t too happy at 8k due to rod/stroke ratio. Rev to ~7K.
-Andrew
how much do the b16 pistons run ur compression up to?? 10:5???
depends on which B16.
In a LS block:
USDM B16 PR3’s yeild 10.8 easily purchased at any Honda dealer
JDM B16 P30’s 11.0 not so easily purchased thru importers
o so wats da general price difference b/twn da CTR’s and b16 pistons
CTR’s may be alittle bit more in price, but the compression ratio is up there. Be sure you want that much compression before you go that route.
cp pistons, and crower econo rods with arp bolts. don’t put arp bolt in oem rods. trust me it doesn’t work well. you could get oemb18 or the 2 listed above then just mill/ deck to you prefered compression.
He said he was going NA B18 and that he was on a budget, so why would he splurge for forged internals, especially when they are not needed. If you want to be bulletproof and have a fat wallet, by all means, but stock LS rods are plenty reliable on a NA B18 with ARP bolts and the large end of the rod resized.
Don’t put ARP bolts in stock rods, thats a first.
ill show you a set on my magnaflux, also think that cp pistons are a good price around 450 with rings and pins, and about the same for the rods, think like me:
new oem pistons with rings and pins(200)
arp bolts 100
the machining to rebuild the rods and bush them and balance them $280
mag the rods$40
so its 640 vs. 900 not a big diff to me but it is his call
ls rods will hold up
the prob with arp is the have a tendecy to crack the rod
i do want that high of compression, b/c on this engine, specially since its out and sittin up (and my thread for selling it keeps getting kicked off) i want to go all motor on this engine and the engine thats in the car now im going turbo. but ima need to upgrade my rods also if im going that high of a compression is that right?
thats in your hands, i would say for the diff in price of rebulding and bushing them you could spend a little more and have crowers with the arps in them imo yes .
IMO, you don’t need high compression to make decent power.
I made pretty decent power with just a 10.4 compression (p73-AO, aka USDM ITR pistons)…and the best part is going to the gas station and say “fill up with 91 octane, please” 
But i guess it depends what your HP goals are.
Edit: Just want to clarify that I had 404 cams as well…Just didn’t want to give the false impression that I made decent power with just a piston upgrade.
Thanks for the tip… yes, I am on a budget…so I’m not too sure about spending money on a forged stuff…however, I was told rods are the weakest link in any motor so I was thinking of purchasing a crower rod or something similar to it. and keep my pistons stock. will this be a better choice?
thanks for the tip everyone!!!
Hey guys, I came across a good del on both pistons and rods…let me know if this is good for my B18A non-vtec all N/A setup:
SRM forged rods and P73 Type R pistons with rings and wrist pins.
Will this work on my motor? will I be able to rev somewhat close to 8000rpm now? I’m not too familiar with this Honda motor so I need suggestions. If these parts are good parts, I can get them for $400.00 from my friend.
Help me!!! thanks everyone!!! 
You’ll want to upgrade the cams and valvetrain so your car actually makes power past 8000rpm 
Otherwise, you’re reving 8K, but making no power past 6800rpm. What’s the point in doing that? You’ll just end up with unecessary risk and additional wear n tear to make less power.
it’s not worth it just to say “i shift at 8K”.
I actually have a port and polished head with crower cams and valvetrain. So this pistons and rods is good combo?
if they’re on type R rods, they wont fit.
no, the rods for LS…this will fit right?