What throwout bearing for a JDM trans?

On my current swap Im installing a JDM J1 (small spline) tranny… but I was thinking of using the brand-new '93 YS1 throwout bearing I already have.

On www.acuraoemparts.com the 1990-1991 throwout bearing is listed as the same part# as the 1992-1993 throwout bearing.

So my question is, for the JDM small-splined tranny, I should be able to use the 1993 throwout bearing, correct?

Any insight would be appreciated.

if the part #'s are the same, should be fine then, i guess…as long as their list aint f’d…

90-93 use the same throwout bearing, it’s when you go to 94+ that they change

:up:

Alrighty… I think my clutch cable has stretched… Its all installed and the trans will go into gears when the car is off. But when I start the car (in Neutral of course), it doesnt want to shift into gears. If I try to start the car in first (Clutch pedal depressed) the car lurches forward as if I’m not pushing the clutch pedal.

A mechanic friend pulled the shift arm by hand, and the car will roll forward with the shifter placed in first. If I try to push the car while the trans is in first, and my buddy holding the clutch pedal down, it wont roll… it stays in first.

Stupid cable… :dozing:

I know this may sound like an obvious question, but did you adjust it?

Hehe Yes I did adjust it both ways and still couldn’t get it to funcion right.

But now another question… On AcuraOEMParts.com they list the 1990-1993 LS Clutch Wire and the 1992-1993 GSR Clutch Wire as being different part numbers… Could that be an issue as well? And if I did order a new clutch wire, which do I get?!? Im stumped here…

LS: 22910-SK7-A02
GSR: 22910-SK7-A80

Has anyone swapped a B16/JDM trans in their LS/GS/RS and kept the stock clutch cable and have it work correctly? If I buy a new one I want to make sure it’s the correct one.

Thanks for the help on this one guys.

The LS and GSR clutch cables are different, but it shouldn’t be related to your problem. I’ve used an non-vtec clutch cable in my GS with a b17a, worked fine. The difference is in overall length as well as thickness where the cable snaps into the clutch cable brackets. They need to be different lengths because of routing differences, but if you’re not using the stock brackets or routing, that doesn’t matter and you can use either cable in either chassis with either engine. If you are using the stock routing and brackets, then use the cable that corresponds to the engine (vtec vs non-vtec).

**All photos taken with the cables left un-touched, they were not moved at all, between the time easy photo was taken.

Transmission end of the cable (GSR left, LS right)

Clutch cable bracket mounting location (GSR top, LS bottom)

Pedal Assembly end of the cable (GSR left, LS right)

*Note, this pic is deceiving. The difference in length is correct, however the rubber boot which is over the end of the cable is located in a different place on both cable. That boot can slide, on that greenish metal part. I was having issues getting the LS cable into my GSR chassis and thought it was because the cables were different - but it ended up being that this boot was not in the right place. For such a simple issue it took me forever to realize what was going on (thanks DAve).

GAH. Issues. So I looked at my clutch cable today… there was still about a half inch of threads to adjust the cable tighter (making it pull up on the arm) so I adjust it… and the pedal obviously felt tighter.

When I pushed it down to the floor I hear a POP! So I figure ehh, the clutch cable probably broke. But that isn’t it… the cable seems to be in one piece as I pulled on the trans-end and it didn’t come out of the sleeve or anything.

But the bearing arm feels different now, like it doesn’t want to spring back to the rest-position once you pull up on it. Does it sound like I broke the spring, or the tabs on the throwout bearing?

UGH I’m so done with this damn swap. Anyone wanna buy a freshly built Lsvtec? Lol

trial and tribulations of having a project car, dont give up on it thought.

sadly if the cable is entact, then looks like you might have to pull taht tranny one more time and inspect everything

Hehe Yeah I nearly wanted to pull the damn thing and sell it! But after a few hours of calming down at work (I was playing with the car on my lunch break), I got my head together and decided to just pull the trans after work.

Upon taking the tranny off, I found… nothing.

No broken fingers on the pressure plate. No broken tabs on the throwout bearing… No broken spring on the throwout bearing… Nothing.

Being that the car wasn’t running when the issue happened, and the fact that the transmission shifts fine when the vehicle is off… I ruled out the possibility of internal tranny problem, and the clutch/pressureplate/bearing were all fine… So I threw it all back together.

I spoke with my brother in-law who’s was a transmission mechanic for like 6 years… he said that he has seen cables stretch over time, and the POP noise I heard could have been a strand or two on the cable itself snapping. Being that everything checked out as far as the tranny itself, I’m going to cross my fingers and pray that it is indeed the clutch cable being stretched and in the process of breaking. Hopefully I can get a new cable quickly and solve this problem!

/rant