When running N2o on the B18A what should be changed to pervent damage in the future?
I’m guessing if the engine is high mileage then changing the pistons, rods, rod bolts, head bolts and new gaskets would help. Is this good? What should be changed and should be left alone?
depends on how much hp you want. you dont need to do anything if your just going to run a 50 shot. but if you are going to run like a 200 shot you should already know what you need to reenforce
How high of mileage are you talking about? A good condition factory LS motor can handle up to 350HP if properly tuned. A 100 shot of nitrous isn’t as bad as a lot of people think. IF properly tuned it can give you a glovebox full of 13 second time slips with the proper tuning, clutch, and slicks all on a completely factory LS motor.
A 50 shot of nitrous is nothing. Factory Civic DX motors can handle a 50 shot of nitrous. If you’re a really good driver you can run a 50-60shot of nitrous and do high 13’s low 14’s all day at the track. That’s with slicks of course.
lord no you don’t need a 6-puck for a 50-shot of nitrous. 6-puck clutches are for racing (as in highly modified engines) applications. a 50-shot hardly qualifies as highly modified. a full-face clutch (depending on brand) can usually take around 200-250 HP at the wheels. a stock ls engine with a 50-shot won’t be touching that. www.clutchcityonline.com has exedy full-face organic clutches rated to somewhere at or a little above 200 WHP for our cars for $269 shipped to your door, and that includes clutch disc, pressure plate, a new throwout bearing, and an alignment tool. the reason i say the 6-puck is a racing application is because most “puck-style” clutches (i.e. non-full-face) are unsprung, which causes them to bite the flywheel REALLY hard and have harsh engagement, whereas a street clutch (full-face) tends to be much softer engagement, making it much easier and more tolerable to drive on the street.