My throw-out bearing is making noise so I figured I should probibly do everything else while i’m in there. I plan on leaving the motor at pretty much stock power level (I,H,E.). The cheapest price while still maintaining trouble free quality and close to stock drivability is my goal(and gaining a little bit of performance while i’m at it). I found this set up on ebay…is it any good? I’ve heard of exedy but not “fidanza”. And is 7.5 lbs. too light for a flywheel?
Thanks for any advice.
Is there a reason this kit is so cheap?
I see in this auction it has an exedy flywheel which is steel and the ring gear is machined onto the flywheel insted of pressed like the aluminum fidanza one…it’s 9.5 lbs. instead of 7.5 lbs. on the fidanza one. Is this something that I should consider. It’s only $50 more for this set up. I would like to maintain stock reliability. Has anyone ever expierence any problems with an aluminim flywheel? Is 9.5 lbs. any kind of a weight savings over stock?
when my clutch and flywheel got changed, i didnt want a flywheel with the ring gear teeth pressed on. ive heard stories of the ring gear coming off the flywheel due to different expansion and cooling rates…the exedy stage 1 is a awsome clutch im using one and love it. id go either with a act 12lb flywheel or a itr one. i went with the itr but kinda wish i had gone with the act one… oh and that clutch in the ebay thing is a oe replacment clutch. since you have to replace it neways id go for something alittle better like the stage 1 you wont regret the stage 1…
Why did you wish you had gone with the act one?? Is the steel 9.5 lbs exedy one a bad choice??
i was saying that cuz i went with the itr flywheel. the itr flywheel is a good flywheel but since i had no idea what it was going to be like with a lighter flywheel i didnt want something i wouldnt like.so next time my clutch needs to be replaced i will be putting in the act 12lb flywheel… it came down for me to wanting a flywheel that was all one peice… and that i would like
also do some searching for post about the lighter flywheels. some say the 9lb flywheels are alittle light for street use and some say it isnt… it all comes down to personal feel.
i could be wrong but ive heard and read that for every 1lb removed from the flywheel is equal to about 25 lbs removed from the weight of the car.
Now i’m trying to decide between the 9.5 lb Exedy, or the 12.5 lb ACT. I did a search on “flywheel” and read most of the threads. It sounds like the 7.5 lb Fidanza and the 8.8 lb ACT are going to be too light and not as easy to drive. I’ve read in that search to stay between 10-12 lbs to remain streetable. But the two that i’m trying to decide between now are just out of that “sweet spot” range.
I’ve decided to go with the Exedy stage 1 clutch but I don’t know which flywheel to pick. Both are about the same price and quality.
i bought my kit from one of those auctions at the beginning of the summer, 7.5lb fidanza with a stage1 exedy. I love it, its been good to me so far. just takes a lil getting use to cause it revs a tad faster now.
The ACT Prolite (8.8lbs) is very streetable; no daily driver issues whatsoever and behaves fine from a stop - no more harder to drive with than a stock flywheel! And once you get on the gas the engine really spins up quicker with around half the rotating mass to accelerate… finally revs up fast enough for proper shifting on track. Id recommend the ACT Prolite, but of the two you listed, the 9.5lb Exedy would be my choice over the 12.5 ACT streetlite - 12.5lbs is not light enough when 9.5lbs will give you better acceleration (which is the main purpose of lightweight flywheels!)
My friend put the exedy stage 1 in his car, and the 9.5 lb flywheel, and he has a crx. Any lightweight flywheel is much nicer than stock, stock ways heavy as shit, something like 15-18 lbs, and his car accelerated noticeably quicker. After my exhaust is in, im gonna start saving and get the exedy clutch, and prolly the act prolite or fidanza. It just takes getting used to is all.
VRacer is completely right. I just installed an ACT Prolite 8.8 in my 91 RS and was expecting some driveability issues but found none. The RPMs drop a little more quickly but someone who is not used to the car probably wouldn’t know the difference. I was worried about the car being hard to drive for people who are not used to it but the worries were unfounded. It drives pretty much like stock but with more power. It is not hard to drive at all and I am very glad I went with the Prolite (8.8) instead of the Streetlite (12.5). I was afraid that the 8.8 would be too aggressive for a daily driver but it is absolutely fine.
To the OP, you asked why these Exedy ebay clutch kits are so cheap. Its because they are the OEM replacement kits that are cheap. The stage one kits are a full faced organic racing disk with a pressure plate with more clamping force. These kits are alitte more expensive but well worth the money.
The Fidanza 7.5 lb flywheels are great flywheels with many good testimonies as well as mine added to the list. Plus, mine only cost me $160 off Ebay. I have been running mine for the last 60K miles, its been perfect and fun to drive.
x2 except i have a competition clutch stage 1
I guess my 303,950 mile engine running a 7.5 lb Fidanza for the last 60K miles is just a miracle engine. :jerkoff:
Where do people come up with this crap?
I’ve been using the The ACT Prolite (8.8lbs) for years and i have absolutely no complaints about it. I wouldn’t say the car still dove like stock because there was a minor adjustment of driving needed, but nothing you couldn’t get used to in 15-20min of driving.
Hence my point. Why put a light flywheel in a car with 240,000+ original miles…now 305,000+. Without your engine ever being overhauled do you truely believe your car is faster?? :gay:
I didn’t say it instantly kills your engine…I said “it greatly compromises the life of your engine.”
Why put a 7.5lb flywheel in your car? Hmm thats an easy one…
-You can shift much easier as the RPM drops right into the next gears range.
-Obviously you don’t know that removing weight from the crank will significantly improve HP and throttle response.
-Your not in the retard group of people whom think its bad for DD.
The question should be why the hell wouldn’t you put one in? Unless you cant shift worth shit I see know reason why not.
I didn’t say it instantly kills your engine…I said “it greatly compromises the life of your engine.”
Uhh dude I think your thinking of the Harmonic balancer cause I have never heard of a lightweight flywheel damaging an engine…
No problem mr. honda engineer
No problem mr. Im to pussy for a light clutch cause I shift like a grandma.
:ban:
Hence my point. Why put a light flywheel in a car with 240,000+ original miles…now 305,000+. Without your engine ever being overhauled do you truely believe your car is faster??
Poor Trinidad, if you actually knew anything about Honda’s/Acura’s, you would know that mileage on the engine has no bearing on the performance or longevity. Maintenance and abuse are the determining factors, and compression and leakdown tests can be performed to assure the internal condition.
I posted the fact that I swapped in a 7.5 lb flyweel on my high mileage engine to debunk your assertion that it would destroy an engine. If according to you a light flywheel is destructive to engines, then mine should have been affected already with such high mileage, right? Quite the contrary, my engine still runs like the day it came off the assembly line.
Without your engine ever being overhauled do you truely believe your car is faster??
Once again, you show your ignorance, Mr. limp wrist. Overhauling an engine is only necessary if the parts are worn to a point of affecting performance or falling out of factory specs. If compression is strong, performance parts can be installed to improve performance without a rebuild.
No where did I or anyone else say that a lighter flywheel makes a car faster, but since you bring it up, lets go there. The less mass you have on the rotating assembly, the less force it will take to spin it. That is precisely why lighter components are used in race applications. Ligher pulleys with shorter ratios, lighter pistons, rods, cranks, flywheels and even clutch assemblies. Next point, if you can shift faster by means of rev-matching quicker (which actually puts less stress on your tranny), you spend less time out of gear, there-by keeping the power to the wheels. Ignorance is bliss isn’t it Trinidad. Please do the online community a favor and read more and post less and keep your limp wrist to yourself and your boyfriends.