Hey guys,
Another question here, I’m trying to keep them separate so threads don’t derail lol.
In the process of building my ls/v combo, and everywhere I look I see LS/V conversion kits.
There are two types I’ve seen; Sandwhich plate style, and fitting style. I’ve noticed the sandwhich kits run higher.
I’ve read GE you can’t beat, but their kits are made of gold almost for that price. I’ve read the blackworks kit is shit when it comes to their sandwhiches.
Or you can do just the fittings (you know, at the oil pressue sensor to head, plug oil passage in head, yada yada), but I’m not sure with all fitting kits if you have to tap the head in multiple spots. you would also have to get stepped dowel pins which is no worries.
Regardless, I’m sending my head to get tanked and replacing my seals, so i need some persuasion as which route to go before I send it off.
I’ve also read to use your head as a reference for gasket, so I would need a b16 vtec head gasket.
I’ve searched the foum but I never saw a whole lot about these surprisingly, so I’m trying to clarify my options, as it goes from $80 to $300 in parts!
Thanks!
Many people run a T-fitting from the oil-pressure-sending-unit on the back of the block, and run that line to the vtec head.
This is a bad idea for two reasons:
1) The chance of breaking the T-fitting is high simply because it sticks out from the block
2) The oil-supply isnt as good as using a sandwich plate style
Its best to run a sandwich plate. This way you also have room for expansion because most sandwich plates have multiple ports to run to other accessories.
I would go with a well-known brand just to ensure you get a quality o-ring and threaded-bolt/adapter. Buying the kit is great because it comes with all fittings, hose, tap and plug for the head, etc. You might be able to save a few bucks piecing together a kit yourself… but those nice A/N fittings add up fast, hence the price of the pre-assembled kits.
I went with a GE setup and have zero complaints.
Yeah that’s exactly what I figured! I haven’t seen anything bad about them, but that price really hurts haha. But, that is the most crucial part of this build, without it, i wasted every penny. I just saw the price difference and figured I’d ask which route most people went and if it was worth it. I’m on a time limit too, so I can only research so fast!
Thanks
you gotta pay to play.
Golden eagle makes a really good kit.
Question about their head gasket. Do they run standard OEM Honda headgaskets? Or are they reworked?
Not for sure, to be honest…
If you’re staying 81.5mm or smaller, use an oem (vtec) headgasket.
I would definitely go with Golden Eagle’s kit. Here’s why:
It costs more for a reason.
Adequate oil supply to a VTEC head is the most important part of any VTEC build.
It may be a steeper investment, initially. But, I promise that half assing on this step WILL cost you a lot in costly repairs and a definite rebuild.
In my opinion, anything other than GE (or comparable style kit) is sub par, too risky, and not worth considering.
Trust us, man. It’s worth it. It is a proven system, and their head gaskets are fine. Same thickness as OEM, if I recall, and I can’t recall hearing about any failures as a result of bad gasket design/construction. A warped head will destroy a gasket, too, so I’d also have the head checked for warpage before the assembly.
I promise you’ll spend a lot more $ in doing things again if you try to save money on critical components.
I look forward to seeing your finished product. Keep us informed.
I understand everything you’re saying! It oges back and forth saying use Vtech, then use NON Vtec. I see GE uses Vtec, so that’s the route I go, but I was initially wondering if it’s just an OEM 3-layer because I have a hook up at an Acura dealer in town and can get a brand new OEM gasket for 40 bucks, compared to their $110 gasket. If it’s the same, why pay almost triple? Haha.
I will definitely post a build thread when i can get some free time!
Okay so here’s the scoop; I just got off the phone with Kenny at Golden Eagle.
He told me they use FACTORY OEM 3 layer headgaskets, however, they open up the oil passages, open up the dowel pin locations and bore the gasket to whichever bore you specify.
So, looks like if you want the perfect gasket for the conversion, it’d be best to just buy their kit with the modified head gasket, unless you have the tools and knowledge to modify it yourself. I’m not talking about the rivets that most people remove off the non-vtec gaskets. That’s a non-issue with the vtec gasket.
Looks like I wont be saving money hahaha
As I said previously… the OEM vtec gasket works perfectly fine as long as you’re staying 81.5mm or smaller.
If you need a custom bore gasket then definitely go with a GE unit… otherwise I’d just rock the OEM. Mine has been fine for over a year with a B16 headgasket.
Well I had read that, but when I called them and they told me they stepped the bore of the dowel pin and oil areas I decided to try to find their kit. Luckily I snatched one off ebay for 208, so effectively, I still saved 70-80 bucks haha.
Also, I’ve been reading through your build thread, I’m only to page 16 I believe but it’s a good thread!
Can’t go wrong with GE stuff.
And, thankya… its been a fun car. Sadly it does more sitting than driving.
Yeah now I just have to play the waiting game so I can tap the head and send it to the machine shop to have a one over and change valve seals.
Luckily it’s starting to get nicer out now, I’ve never been to Utah so i don’t know the weather there, but hopefully you’ll get to drive it soon. That’s my biggest fear with this project, I’d put so much effort into it, that’ll it’ll be the second car I have to garage haha.