Which would produce more hp?

Putting a jdm b20 block with a b16 head in my 93 teg ls or putting a gsr block with a b16 head? It seems like it would be easier to do the second and i think maybe alil cheaper. Any comments?

it will all depend on how its built. If you can build the b20 up to withstand the same rpms that the gsr block can… then obviously the b20vtec will have a good deal more power.

personally i’d do the poorman’s itr (gsr block + b16a (pr3) head). My confidence in the b20vtec and ls/vtec setups is beginning to drop. Especially since i figured out you can build a poorman’s itr for the same price as a reliable ls/vtec.

yeah but for the price which would be a better project?

personally I think the poorman’s itr. I wouldn’t be happy w/ a relatively stock b20 bottom end w/ vtec. I’d want to beef it up a lot… and that takes a LOT of money. If you stick w/ the b18c1 block then you won’t really have to beef it up at all, just add some high compression pistons… put the engine together, and then do some big power adders like headwork, cams, itr intake manifold…

I agree with Colin and I hope to be able to do the poor man’s ITR this summer. But I would say that just putting a b16a head onto a b18c1 block you will lose hp. A b16a1 has the mildest VTEC cams honda makes and this head will lower your compression ratio. Those are both facts not me guessing. I’m not sure exactly how much hp you will lose but don’t expect the 170 flywheel hp the b18c1 is rated at. But it is very easy to upgrade. Like Colin said you need to build up the b20 block to make it worthwhile while the b18c1 block can already handle 8000rpms.
Try not to think of what the immediate gains you’ll get from either setup but which setup is easier and smarter to be modifying.

Just kinda curious how this is comparable cost wise? You can get a b20 complete for like 800-900 bucks, but I cant find a gsr engine for under 3k. I cant find a gsr shortblock anywhere either.

thederrickm

list leet certs here.

A gsr swap will cost $3000 or more, just the engine should be around $1200. Maybe more maybe less. The part you’re saving money on is the fact that you don’t have to build up the bottom as much. The b18c block already has a block girdle and can easily handle 8000rpms or more. Now imagine if you built a b20 but forgot something and it blew up on you? Imagine how bad that would suck! And the money you would have wasted!

I’ve witnessed a relatively stock B20VTEC setup on the dyno hit 198whp and 147wtq. Really nice numbers for a daily driver. He is running Ross 10:1 pistons, stock rods, GSR head, 2001 ITR cams, and stock P72 ECU. Pretty nice setup.

A poorman’s ITR setup is nice also. But I chose to go with the LSV setup because I was looking more for good tq numbers and a more of a beefier midrange. I believe a LSVTEC setup can be just as reliable as any ITR or GSR setup if it’s built right. Considering cost, I would say you would probably spend more trying to find a GSR shortblock and build it up to make numbers even close to what an LS/CRVTEC setup would put out. We can go all day about high rpm reliability, R/S ratio, forces put on the rods, cylinder walls, etc. But that’s just my opinion. It’s all about preference. Good luck.