So I was goofing around in the SCCA website and I guess I fit into STS, but I don’t know yet. Anyway here’s a link from the rulebook and I was wondering if anyone could break it down for me.
If I rebuilt my stock motor, back to OEM specs, would that still qualify as unmodified? Could I balance the bottom end? What could I do (if anything) and stay in STS? It says “The updating and/or backdating of engines, transmissions, or transaxles must be done as a complete unit as available from the factory, including those items required by emissions regulations for a particular configuration.” But then it later says that no modifications to the motor are allowed…
It looks like I could use a reprogrammed ECU…could I also use an SAFC? Could I also use a Adj FPR?
Would my C-Pillar bar throw my car out of STS?
Are limited-slip differentials allowed? If yes, what is best for a LS tranny?
Okay here’s a rundown of my current setup on the car
HR sports
Illuminas 1f/5r
FUSB, RLTB, C-pillar
195/60/14 Azenis 38psi/35psi
Ive got a birthday coming up and I’d like to ask for something to be a little more competitive in STS. I was thinking a rear-sway. But yeah, what would you guys in STS reccomend for me? Well…other than improving my driving
Re-building your motor to stock specs is perfectly legal for STS. You can change the pistons to .25mm OS, but that’s about it. No other internal engine mods are allowed. Also I think that the UD/BD is out of STS this year.
You can re-program your ECU. You can use a SAFC OR FPR but not both.
I don’t think that the c-pillar bar is legal. I own one, but I don’t use it in my STS car. At a regional level, I’m sure you’ll be fine.
No, they bump you up to STX.
A rear sway would be a good upgrade. Also, you would probably benefit the most by going to a 15" wheel, but I realize that doing so costs a lot more than a rear sway. BTW, I’m running a Progress rear sway bar and I love it. Most people recommend the ST though.
Nino - Take a look at that link I sent. It says that you can use a factory limited slip.
“No limited slip differentials are permitted except for factory standard viscous coupler type units.”
I’m trying to figure out whether V.C. LSD’s from the factory are allowed, or just any V.C. factory style.
Whats your setup like on your car?
EDIT: Im asking for the ST sway bar for my birthday. So we’ll see how it goes. I didn’t want the Progress because I have a RLTB and the car is my daily driver. I’d hate to spin it on the road :rockon:
The LSD rule is for cars that came factory equipped with them. BTW, the link you posted is slightly outdated. There have been several rule changes since then.
My setup is(somewhat in order of most to least effective mod):
93 RS
-Rota Slipstreams(15X7)
-Falken Azenis
-Tein SS coilovers 508F/559R
-Progress rear sway bar
-Vision front upper control arms
-Takata 4-point harness
-Sparco Sprint seat
-Energy Suspension master bushing kit
-Prothane trailing arm bushings-Neuspeed front strut bar
-Ogle rear strut bar
-Ingalls rear camber kit
-Re-programmed ECU
-AEM short ram intake
-DC 4-2-1 ceramic header
-HKS Sport exhaust
-Energy Suspension motor mount inserts
-Mugen stearing wheel
-Skunk2 short shifter
The car has also been corner weighed and the alignment is set up fairly agressively. This would rank up at the very top as well.
The only thing left to do is to get a bunch more seat time, learn to drive, upgrade the brakes(which are horrible right now), fine tune the suspension, and maybe get some pulleys.
HTH,
-nino
Yeah, I’ve really debated on whether or not to get some Ground Controls. I’d really like a Ogle RUSB, but I don’t know if it’s worth the $120 or so. What are your alignment settings? Do you drive it on the street? What kind of street tires do you have and how bad do they wear out on the inside?
Everyone I know that runs GCs loves them. If you’re not planning on corner weighing the car at some point, I would just stick to springs though. I have a set of Neuspeed Race springs on my other car and I love them(thanks Johnny).
Is Ben’s RUSB really that much? I don’t remember because it’s been a while, but I thought that it was less than $100. BTW, I think it’s the best RUSB made for our cars.
My alignment settings are:
Camber: FL/FR = -3.25 degrees, RL/RR = -2.75 degrees
Caster: FL/FR = 3.5 degrees
Toe: Front = 3/32 out, Rear = 1/16 in
The car is street driven every day. The insides of the tires don’t wear too much more than the outsides, but the front tires wear pretty fast due to the toe settings. The tires are Falken Zeix(sp?) on 14" steelies.
-nino
Holy crap thats an agressive alignment :shock: my current settings are…
Camber: FR/FL -.7* RR/RL -.5*
Caster: FR/FL +1.5*
Toe: 0* F/R
How did you get so much camber? Do you have a camber kit? How did you get so much caster? Caster is how much camber is added when you turn, and how fast the steering wheel comes back to dead center correct?
I’ve been debating taking off my camber kits completely…
The Vision arms are the reason for the caster and the negative camber in the front.
Your settings right now are close to the stock settings which is great for tire longevity, but not so great for an autox car. I wouldn’t mess with them though if you’re planning on changing your springs. Once that’s done is when you should get your car aligned.
Oh im sorry, I dont have any immediate plans for new springs, i was just saying it’d be nice. What are Vision arms? UCAs?
Edit: My AIM s/n is chsscott so if you’ve got that please IM me
Not that I know of. Someone was talking about swapping the front LCAs left to right to gain caster over on honda-tech. I don’t have any experience with that though.
-nino
