Ballin’
Konig 17’s
EBC front &rear X-drilled and slotted
Project Mu Brake pads
Tien SS coilovers w/pillowball
Polly-Urethane bushings on points
SS brake lines
Skunk2 Control arm
Skunk2 camber kit
S/T sway bars
EM quick release C-piller
other struts just eBay and reinforced
Inner fender support
front “strong bar”
Fullrace traction bar
and just finished up the firewall Y-brace today
Falken RT-615
[QUOTE=digitalHorizon;1688875]I have no idea what a “baller” suspension would be. I would think it would be high dollar stuff, but then you posted things like Function/Form and EM Racing in your to-do list, so that’s out the window. Good does not always equal expensive. More does not always equal better. With suspension, remember that it’s not the parts list, it’s the tuning and how the parts you have work together to give the vehicle response that you desire.
Also, beware of throwing tons of parts on a car at a time. You’d be better off with some Konis and Ground Controls with stock sway bars and street tires at first. Add one part at a time so that you can tell if what you’re doing is helping or hurting. If you add too many things at once, you won’t be able to tell what went wrong, or worse, which of the changes helped. Same thing with tires, DO NOT GO OUT ON R COMPOUNDS THE FIRST TIME. Too many people go out on tires that hide their sloppiness and never improve as drivers because their mistakes are masked.
Don’t expect to get it right the first time, either. I think we’ve gone through 10 or so sets of springs in the past year or two. Camber and caster adjustments are constantly changing, as is tire pressure. All of it is based on track configurations and conditions.
Also, please don’t expect to get serious about any kind of motorsports without spending as much time on aerodynamics as you did on suspension. Engine is important, but last on the list. You’ll need a reliable engine with a usable powerband, not one with tons of power at 9 million RPM.[/QUOTE]
i think thats the most helpful post i’ve seen your name next to… thanks.
I got 14" steelies and stock suspension factory spec alignment and I outhandled this kid in a dc with a nice suspension but thats because I’m a lunatic in my da if I f it up it don’t matter he was pissed off he couldn’t keep up its all about getting to know the car and how it responds and handles you will learn after driving it for awhile where your limits are and how far you can push it I must say the da has impressed me many times with its stock suspension and 229k on the odometer I’m no pro driver but these little cars handle very well I could only imagine if I put new bushings and suspension components in it but alas she will never no these joys as my wallet belongs to my money pit of an EG that being said if i hit lotto or get a huge promotion at work I will probably wind up with a second money pit
^Do you work at auctions??^
hey 90DALS. how much negative camber are you running? and how much toe out? im looking for a good street/sport setup and yours seems to fit the description.
Set up
Im running Tockio Illumina Shocks 24way ADJ with Skunk2 Lowering Linear springs with Megan racing lower rear tie bar full strut bars Energy suspension Hyper flex Poly busking kit all the way around over sized brakes for improved stopping skunk2 front and rear camber kits with blox rear tie arms (control arms) 24mm custom swaybar front and rear in process of Tein EDFC but i dont think it will work with my struts i can take hair pins at 70mph with the use of the ebrake and alot of fine tuning
where the hell did u get those 24way adjustable?!?!
the konis are 24 way. the illuminas are 5 way.
as for my setup…
hr sport spings
tokico illuminas 5-way adj
full ES master busing kit
racing hart c2s
kuhmo MX 205-40-17
-3 degrees camber in front
-3.5 in the rear.
toe front and back are 0
caster is set to 2.
also brakes are a huge part of racing
as for my brakes i have
brembo blanks
hawlk hps
i really need a rear sway bar im getting way to much understeer this this setup.
has anyone tired taking off the front sway bar? i hear its great for cars without lsds because when u lift the tire (caused by the swaybar) you spin that wheel if you dont have an lsd.
according to my alignment paper, rear toe should be minimum .06
edit: “Strange as it may seem, on some front-wheel drive cars and minivans, a slight amount of toe-out (up to about 1/16th inch) may be specified when aligning the wheels to compensate for toe-in that occurs as the front wheels pull the vehicle down the road. Drive torque more than offsets the compliance in the steering and suspension allowing both front wheels to toe-in slightly when accelerating. This is also what causes “torque steer” (a sudden steering pull) in some FWD cars that have unequal length halfshafts. Under hard acceleration, the left wheel with the shorter halfshaft experiences more toe-in than the right wheel with the longer halfshaft. The result is unequal toe changes and a steering pull to the right. Vehicle manufacturers have reduced or eliminated torque steer in many FWD cars by using equal length halfshafts and/or stiffer control arm bushings.”
alas, i’m running tokico illumina advanced handling kit + rear ingalls washer kit.
probably the cheapest suspension setup here.
the inside wheel is one that pushes up. it doesn’t get lifted. i dont see why it would hurt traction with/without LSD. the sway bar isn’t actually doing anything to that side of the car.
[QUOTE=RedHeadPyr0;1744737]the konis are 24 way. the illuminas are 5 way.
as for my setup…
hr sport spings
tokico illuminas 5-way adj
full ES master busing kit
racing hart c2s
kuhmo MX 205-40-17
-3 degrees camber in front
-3.5 in the rear.
toe front and back are 0
caster is set to 2.
also brakes are a huge part of racing
as for my brakes i have
brembo blanks
hawlk hps
i really need a rear sway bar im getting way to much understeer this this setup.
has anyone tired taking off the front sway bar? i hear its great for cars without lsds because when u lift the tire (caused by the swaybar) you spin that wheel if you dont have an lsd.[/QUOTE]
first of all you should have more negative camber in the front for FWD to decrease understeer. you talk about you have to good brakes, that is an ok setup, but I’ve ran Brembo slotted (real brembo not ebay) with Endless VN pads and that was a GREAT setup with Super blue ATE brake fluid, im running Brembo slotted with Endless SSS with Super Blue ATE brake fluid now and its suburb braking than a lot of cars i think. i hope you flushed your brake fluid with a good fluid, also get a rear sway bar. I think the ST bar is great for decreasing a lot of understeer
i just stated brakes are a huge part of racing not that i have a great setup.
for kyle:
taken from howstuffworks.com
When you go into a turn now, the front suspension member of the outside of the turn gets pushed upward. The arm of the sway bar gets pushed upward, and this applies torsion to the rod. The torsion them moves the arm at the other end of the rod, and this causes the suspension on the other side of the car to compress as well. The car’s body tends to stay flat in the turn.
so if the outside suspension is compressed because it is taking most of the weight through the turn the inside corner is going to be compressed by the sway bar. now if the tire is about to lift and then you have the sway bar compressing that almost lifted side, it will mostlikly lift that tire. if you dont have an lsd the car will spin the tire in the air not the tire on the ground. when this happens you cant power through a turn because you have 0 traction for the wheel in the air. now with an lsd power is sent to both wheels regardless if one is in the air. so when you lift the inside tire the weight that tire usually carried is sent to the ouside and the outside recevies more traction. so now you can pull through the turn with alot more traction on the wheel that needs it.
heres another good read on the bars it explains it a little better than i did.
http://www.stealthtdi.com/SwayBars.html
A friend sorced them for me from where im not sure but they are sick ive got em set almost perfect for how i drive they cost me 1900 for all 4 might be able to get a part number for you think the stickers are still legiable have to check that out will get back to ya