i wanna know who here has the most track/auto x ready DA/DB on here and what kind of suspension/camber kit/sway bars ect. reason im asking is im getting really into auto x because goin in a straight line is getting really old, i was thinking of this setup:
function & form full coilover kit 24 way adj.
ITR rear sway bar
ingalls camber kit
custom roll-cage, my uncle knows a guy who can do it for really cheap
em-racing triple piller like the Z shaped
i have a gutted interior exept front seats and front carpet and side panels
so how does that sound so far? and would you change anything from experience? thanks
OBX front camber arms
suspension techniques sways front and rear
215/45/16 Nexen(made by michelin) tires
omni power sport coilovers lowered on the shock mount.
megan racing c-pillar bar
front 3pt solid mount strut tower bar
solid mount rear strut bar triangulated to rear towerbar
also solid one peice, and solid rear lower tie bar
all by explicit speed performance.
sorry no interior or engine bay shots, my gf has the camera.
heres pics of the car and stance
this is an autocross monster. and really fun in the mountains.
I have no idea what a “baller” suspension would be. I would think it would be high dollar stuff, but then you posted things like Function/Form and EM Racing in your to-do list, so that’s out the window. Good does not always equal expensive. More does not always equal better. With suspension, remember that it’s not the parts list, it’s the tuning and how the parts you have work together to give the vehicle response that you desire.
Also, beware of throwing tons of parts on a car at a time. You’d be better off with some Konis and Ground Controls with stock sway bars and street tires at first. Add one part at a time so that you can tell if what you’re doing is helping or hurting. If you add too many things at once, you won’t be able to tell what went wrong, or worse, which of the changes helped. Same thing with tires, DO NOT GO OUT ON R COMPOUNDS THE FIRST TIME. Too many people go out on tires that hide their sloppiness and never improve as drivers because their mistakes are masked.
Don’t expect to get it right the first time, either. I think we’ve gone through 10 or so sets of springs in the past year or two. Camber and caster adjustments are constantly changing, as is tire pressure. All of it is based on track configurations and conditions.
Also, please don’t expect to get serious about any kind of motorsports without spending as much time on aerodynamics as you did on suspension. Engine is important, but last on the list. You’ll need a reliable engine with a usable powerband, not one with tons of power at 9 million RPM.
H&R oe springs 1 coil cut off front
KYB GR2 struts
Revo front -1 and washers rear -2 camber kit
ST front sway
poly bushings all around
ebay 4piece stut brace
205/50/15 falkins 512s
perfect for daily driving…thats my baller setup. got some GC 450lbs front and 300lbs rears waiting to be put on as soon as i get some new shocks
thanks digitalhorizon for the helpful info and your right i should do the step by step method, right now i have tokico illuminas with crappy megan coilovers( to stiff/bouncy) so i think my first purchase will be a better camber kit…because mine is shot, then the koni/GC setup which was my 2nd choice anyway then test it out…
I have front and rear suspention tech sway bars, function form lca’s, tokico 5 way adj with skunk 2 springs, mfactory lower tie bar, revo stage 2 a-arms wit adj ball joints, 205/50/15 nitto neo gens, mugen’ front tower bar, em c pillar, had a spoon rear tower bar, gutted, all parts have e/s bushings. Haven’t takin it auto x’in yet but as soon as it comes around i will be.:manual:
Well I was working on a pretty good setup before I decided to sell all the stuff before I had a chance to put it on the car and see how it handled.
Koni Yellows
Ground Controls 380lbs. Front / 340lbs. Rear
Ground Control Top Hats, all 4 corners
Full Race traction bar kit
Function-7 rear lca’s, 7075 airframe aluminum, 2 lbs. each.
Prothane trailing arm bushings
Prothane compensator arm bushings
Energy Suspension master bushing kit
Suspension Techniques f/r sway bars
Benen rear lower tie bar
EM Racing: C-pillar bar , rear upper strut bar, trunk wall bar, and rusb to trunk wall triangulation bar.
Skunk 2 Pro UCA Camber Kit
Neuspeed Front Upper Strut Bar
Ingalls adjustable rear camber arms
New OEM Honda: ball joints, hubs, wheel bearings, tie rods, nuts/bolts
powdercoated in satin black: all stock suspension parts, F7 lca’s, EMR bars, ect.
I think that was about it.
On 16" Volk gold TE37’s with Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3’s (fucking awesome tires) and also a set of 16" Mugen bronze MF8’s.
K-sport coilovers, springs are 12k-rear, 10k-front
full poly bushing kit
ST rear sway bar with function7 endlinks
DC rear trailing arms and compensator arms with prothane bushings installed (thanks again JDM1nt2B)
omni rear LCA’s
skunk2 RLTB
skunk2 RUSB
EM trunk wall bar
ben ogle c-pillar bar (felt a nice difference)
full-race traction bar
vision FUSB
skunk2 UCA’s
all new ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rods, steering rack
arp extended wheel studs with skunk2 lugs
spoon SW388’s wrapped in azenis (615’s)
And just to let you know this set-up is completely useless w/o an alignment. The car is sitting right now waiting till i get the time to go have an alignment done. So i would advise you to go to a well known shop and have a full alignment done.
My setup is very simlar (I bolded the differences). I don’t have the FR traction bar, aftermarket LCAs, monkey bars or new bearings, but it rides really well. I’d love to try it out in auto-x.
Yeah they were originally white. I liked them in the Roman Gold that I had them powder coated cause it was a unique color that no one had. But to tell you the trugh I liked the white better against my white da. The bronze MF8’s though just looked sooo sick. It was hard to sell them.
kinda funny that only ONE person mentioned anything about an alignment of thier cars. why do people always think the more shit they spend money on to put on thier “custom parts list” the faster they think they actually are. ive seen cars with simply TA wheels, good tires, and a solid alignment straight spank cars with so called “baller suspension”
i just got my alignment done but its at stock specs with
-2.4 camber front -1.5 rear with 0.01 toe in front and 0.07 toe rear with 2.0 caster front, but my suspension setup is too basic. I don’t even want to list it, but it still handles nice but then again i also have azenis rt-615s which covers up a lot of my bad driving.