Who in here is running a b20/vtec setup thats not stock

im going to add a semi built gsr head to my b20 block and swap in 11:1 C.R pistons and a p28 JUN chipped ecu in a few weeks, ill eventally add cams, adj cam gears, a huge TB and a vafc, i also have ARP rod bolts on my b20 oem rods for reliability, ill rev to 8200, but no one i know has a built crvtec, they all have low CR pistons and crap b16 stock cams and such…

I’m running a B16 head that is milled 20 thousandths with ITR intake manifold and ITR throttle body, AEM fuel rail and FPR, JG cam gears, and JG Edelbrock Pro-Series header. I have yet to build my bottom end, but most likely I’m going to keep it all motor, so I will be swapping my pistons out for some JE pistons that should bump my compression upwards to 11.5:1, eagle rods, blockguard, & a GSR crank. I am also going to be getting some CTR cams for it soon too. I also have a chipped ECU, not sure what program, but it’s an OBD program with a 5400 VTEC cross over, and I have a VAFC that has yet to be installed.

well dumb fu*k, i meant using stock low comp pistons, like 9:6, stock b16 or b18c cams, stock header…whateva, u get it now after i had to word it out, the first guy seemed to understand it, bye hth:bored:

nope, “stock crvtec” (or ls) is the commonly accepted term for a stock bottom end with a stock b16 or gsr head (or whatever) just slapped on. Its not considered an oxymoron, like the name suggests. Everyone except noobies should know that.


daver, thanks for clearing that up foe me!

conversly a “built crvtec” is… :idea:

lol, aftermarket high CR pistons, lumpy cams, head work, chipped, electronic stuff like a vafc, clutch, all that

and hopefully a block girdle, arp bolts and perhaps oil squirters…

daver…btw: i have the arp rod bolts already to, im not worried about the squirters…but whats your opinion on the girdle, im iffy for that

i don’t have any experience really, but i’m partial to the girdle. Not that i think the engine will blow up, but it may just last a bit longer with the added rigidity (and the peace of mind helps).

I’m just gonna keep my b20 non vtec :burnout:

hey, do you guys know if a b20 block will fit in our cars with no clearance issues???i ask because i put in my ls/vtec, and due to the taller head, it is VERY close to my CF hood. i am under the impression a B20 has a longer stroke, thus taller deck height??? can anyone clear this up for me?

The B20 block and LS block are identical in exterior. The B20 crank is the same as the LS crank, the only difference between a B20 and a LS is the bore, the B20 has a larger bore. I haven’t had any problem with my head hitting the hood, although I have a warped C/F hood, so it might come closer then a normal LS setup when your hood fits right.

right on then, i beleive it is a 84mm -vs- 81mm bore? sweet, i shall continue my search for a b20 bottom end. do you think it is possible to re-sleeve it to like 86 or 87mm? i think it would be possible to get 2.2 L out of this thing, without the weight of an h22…hmm…N/A monster! anyone alreaady have this setup??


My setup is bullet proof bottom block, 1992 LS block with Z-10 Block Girdle, and the head is a 2001 JDM Type-R with Jun Stage 3s…

Was thinking of going the B20 route, but I was already working on the LS block…so I scrapped it…a B20 block would be nice, but what about that Crower Stroker Kit…MMM mmmm good