Did you buy stranded plug wires? The cheap solid cores you buy at Autozone, etc can still cause grief, even if they are new.
I had the same similar setup as you as my old setup with a drag turbo kit. You need a inline fuel pump for the fmu. once you have that you will run really rich. The fmu needs the inline to work. I had a walboro intank and fmu, i was leaning out until i put the inline pump in and tuned it with a vafc. Try that.
not to urgue, but your the only person ive ever heard that used two hi-flow pumps. I have a bunch of freinds that are turbo,most using fmu’s, NONE of them use an inline pump. Two fuel pumps seem counter-productive!
thanks for the help so far!
oh, i got spiral core wires now too. I really have a lean situtation.
Its th evil Voo-Doo turbo god crapping on you…But anyway, I really can’t think of anything other then what you are doing…and ir-regurdless of how reliable a FMU set-up is, it should still be able to function. If nothing else, then temporarily. I mean he has switched FMU’s 3 times and injectors. And putting the car on a wideband is moer then likely going to still tell him hes running lean. I personnally am leaning towards an electrical problem, because the wiring has been switched out in that car a few times, along with a handful of motors. But what I don’t understand is that the car runs fine untill it sees boost, which sounds like a map sensor. Me personally would go rob a untouched wiring harness and ecu, if for nothing else, then to eliminate that as a possible problem. If i think of anything else, ill let you know. Good luck, chris.
Nick
Its just that some of my friends had a hi flow intank w/fmu no inline both blew their motors. I tried the same thing but i was running lean until i put the inline on. I guess its all on your setup. My car acted weird with no inline pump. I was a budget racer once too.
hmmm…interesting^^^
hehe, its not lean anymore! I wired in resistors and 450s yesterday. I dont even have my safc2 yet, lol.
i think i know your problem. i noticed the same thing on a customer’s car, a 95 civic ex he had installed a t3/t4 kit on. he brought it to me to chip the ecu and wideband tune it, and i noticed after chipping that it would seem like it was detonating into boost, but it would pull through it. changing the fuel tables to add fuel was not creating a richer condition at the same point, so i knew it had to be ignition-related. i pulled the spark plugs, and gapped them down to .032 from their stock gap of .040. problem solved. turns out the boost was actually blowing out the plugs (just like blowing out a candle). it ran perfectly after that (once i changed the fuel values back so it didn’t go crazy rich into boost, lol)
i noticed you’re from huntsville, alabama. chattanooga, tn isn’t a long drive from there. if you want to figure out what’s really going on, i’ll plug my wideband in (its a plx m300 unit), so we can see EXACTLY what the engine is doing. since it would only be for diagnosing and not tuning, i wouldn’t charge you much at all. $30 should cut it, which would just cover installing the o2 sensor and the wear on the sensor itself (i have to buy new sensors occasionally, and they are NOT cheap). i could also tune it for you if you want to provide me with something to tune with (ie. an adjustable fuel pressure regulator or a safc). depending on the level of tuning, i charge $60 for a good, well rounded, daily drivable street tune. this usually takes around 3-4 hours of road tuning, and good luck finding another tuner that only charges around $20/hr. for tuning. i also do dyno tuning for the same rate, you cover the dyno time. with users running a chipped ecu this allows me to dial out the vtec crossover, ignition tables, as well as fuel tables to make the most power. i have a great reputation in chattanooga, you can ask any of the honda people i have tuned for in chattanooga, some of which include:
Dustin, green turbo ej Civic, d16z6 motor with ssAutoChrome T3/T4 kit
Gweezy, white accord with a jdm h22 motor, has also asked me to tune his CRX with an Ls/vtec when he finishes the swap.
Fuller, EBP eg civic hatch, jdm gsr motor on homemade ITB’s, type-r tranny
Santos, white ek civic coupe, d16y8 motor on 65 shot nitrous
Sergie, black ek civic coupe, b18c5 type r motor on 75 shot nitrous
Dustin, black ej civic coupe, Ls/Vtec motor with bolt-ons.
i also chipped my own car, a turbo ej1 coupe running 12psi on a 14b turbo, semi-built d16y8 motor, ported and polished head, which i am currently trying to break into the 8’s in the 1/8th mile, barring traction issues i am having. i have yet to put this one on the dyno (currently my attention is being focused on college over the car), but my old setup, a stock internal d15b7 with a d16y8 head on 9psi, made 205whp and 179wtq, before i decided to swap for a full d16y8 for the extra displacement and lower compression.
all of my customers have been nothing short of impressed with what the tuning has done for their cars, and have suggested me to their friends
who were in need of chipping. i charge $75 to chip obd1 ecus (i currently chip p06, p28, and p75 ecus), and $40 for an obd0 or obd2 to obd1 wiring harness. i have a few extra obd1 ecu’s laying around if you cannot provide one, which i will sell for $150 chipped.
let me know if you’re interested, either shoot me a pm, email me at wdwalker21@tntech.edu, or shoot me an im, my aim sn is boostedwes