Why does my car get the gas mileage of a blown big block??

Sooo here goes.

First off my car is a 91 integra ls.
Its got a 98 ls motor in it.

I’m lucky to get 180 miles on a FULL TANK of gas.
Also, among that, it has a hard time in gears 1-3.
First gear: have to Rev it passed 2500 and slowly let the clutch out to stop it from bogging out.
Second and third: between 2000-3200 its like riding a bronco. The car bogs and kicks around until it gets above 3200rpm.
All gears: car bogs and has no response at WOT.

Ive replaced the fuel filter, checked the cap n rotor, cleaned the iacv and fitv.

What else should be gone through???

Was thinking about getting a new fuel pump and having the timing checked… anything else?

Thanks people!

p.s. Ive seen a few threads about similar problems,:crazy: but theirs have all been while cruising. Mine is more or less trying to get going from a stop.

Also, to further my gas mileage… Im at 130 miles on the tank, which was full, is now sitting at less than half a tank! :wtf:

Is your ECU OBD0 or OBD1?

Almost positive its still the original. Pr4 maybe?

Check the ignition timing. Most definitely.
If that checks out good, check resistance of your ect sensor. Both cold and hot.
If that checks out good, I’d start looking at the o2 sensor.
Have you tried pulling the codes yet? Regardless of whether the cel is illuminated, there may be a code stored. Check for codes first and foremost

if it the stock ECU then how exactly did you hook up an obd2 motor to it? did you just swap all the hardware from the old one and run the new long block?

[QUOTE=welfare;2227210]Check the ignition timing. Most definitely.
If that checks out good, check resistance of your ect sensor. Both cold and hot.
If that checks out good, I’d start looking at the o2 sensor.
Have you tried pulling the codes yet? Regardless of whether the cel is illuminated, there may be a code stored. Check for codes first and foremost[/QUOTE]

Alright. I did pull the plug for the front o2 sensor, and it has helped the bogging quite a bit. Its still there, just not as severe.
And yea, I haven’t thought about pulling for codes, cuz the light hasn’t been on. So ill check that out.

It was already done when I picked up the car. It looks like they used the old hardware I.e distributor, injectors, ecu, all that.

Have you checked your air filter? Not to be funny but i had the same issue with my teggy, and it was the air filter. Also, clean the throttle body as well, correct me if i am wrong. Im just trying to help.

You might want to check your spark plugs and wires as well. maybe your §§§§§?

A 91 car only has one (1) O2 sensor with one (1) wire make sure that is what you have. If not someone has changed the car over to OBD1 or ever to OBD2.

Lift the carpet and look on the side of the ECU. Then you will know what OBD it is! Just look for the P## to find out what it is. My guess is, it is loading up on fuel. Pull your spark plugs after a test fire, look to see if any of them are wet! Also you are looking for a build up of black soot. While the car is running, pull the plug wires, one by one and put it back. Listen for any changes in the engine running. If the engine starts running rough put the plug back and move to the next. If no change, that plug is not firing. If you find nothing, find a trusted friend(make sure they are not trying to take you out for some reason) to sit in the driver set, with in gear parking brake set and foot on the brake (it take some time to get it right if it is a 5spd car), rev the engine to just be for stalling and repeat the test. It sould start to act up. Tell me what you find. I am think you might be having a misfire under load or you are running rich for some reason. A misfire can cause the car to run rich!

Thanks man, ill try that out. We looked at the plugs, have maybe 400 miles on them, and 2 of them still look brand new while the 2 in the middle cylinders have some wear. Little bit of soot, not wet, and a little discoloration on the ceramic. My pops said it looks to be running pretty lean.

Ill def hit up what you said and ill let ya know what we find.

Well I tried the first portion of this. Oh and its a pr4.
But I pulled the plug wires one by one, starting closest to the drivers fender.
Pulled one, bogged down.
Pulled two, almost died, bogged real low.
Pulled three, bogged down same as one.
Pulled four (closest to distributor) and bogged like one and three.

And I might have said already, I disconnected the o2 sensor and it helped with the bogging problem. Also, I was shocked to see the cel didn’t come on right away. Sometimes it comes on after a few minutes, and others it’ll stay off for a good 15-20 minute run before it kicks on.

I’m going to replace the air filter and clean the inside of the throttle body. Maybe replace the o2 sensor.
Also checked out the plugs with my dad, and he said it looks to be running rich as well… ::correction from previous::

how about checking your tps with an oscilloscope…ur saying u have no response at WOT and u have bogging that is a symptom of a bad tps… u shud have between .5volts and 4.5volts at idle and WOT…check that outt…make sure all your vaccuum lines are connected u shud have around 15-18mg of vaccum after the throttle plate…

Ill check that out as well. Just one more thing added to the list lol!

Tried these yet?

[QUOTE=welfare;2227210]Check the ignition timing. Most definitely.
If that checks out good, check resistance of your ect sensor. Both cold and hot.
If that checks out good, I’d start looking at the o2 sensor.
Have you tried pulling the codes yet? Regardless of whether the cel is illuminated, there may be a code stored. Check for codes first and foremost[/QUOTE]

I was in the process of doing the ignition timing, and then the top bolt… even after sitting in penetrating oil, the whole top of that completely broke off! The part that it gets tightened into, that cam cap or whatever…

I picked up an o2 sensor last night so Ima do that today. And I forgot about getting the ecu checked for codes…

You can do this yourself. The ECU’s on these cars actually have a neat little window right on the computer case. Just turn the key to on, and watch it right there through that window. You will see a LED flash out the codes. The output will be in a Morse code style of long and short lights. For example, 2 long, pause, 3 short is 23.

It could flash out codes without the cel lit? Ill check that out in the parking lot lol!

Let me know what you get, if there is any codes. I got quick access to what they mean!