First I am installing a 530T into my teg and had a quick question. The ground path for the motors. Do these have to be hooked up to a specific wire or will any ground do?
Second what is the easiest way to run wires into the doors?
Also is it possible to tie too many grounds together? I believe the ground path for the motors just need to goto any ground I was curious if I can tie them into the same ground as I did for the module (which is the wire on the plug that plugs into the switch)
Run a ground lead into the door, [along with the power and trigger leads and connect the black ground lead to it, connect the “ground path” leads to the power window switch main ground
Best place to wire in a 530T in a G2 is in the drivers door, [module in the door on dry side of vapor barrier] that way only the 12V constant/ground and trigger lead(s) for the 530T need to be run into the door.94
So you say run a ground lead into the door and then tie the motor ground paths to the switch ground? Why not just tie everything into the ground coming off the switch? Can I just run the ground to one of the bolts in the door?
Connecting the ground paths to the switch ground adds no load, however adding the 530T main ground is adding a load.
Grounding to a bolt in the door is not a good idea, the door is no “grounded” properly to the cars chassis.
Run the power and ground into the door, use same gauge wire as on the 530T if you have to extend them, the triggers, [ground when armed and EXT are low current ground so the leads do not have to be more then 22-24 gauge. 94
Will it be an issue adding the load of the 530T’s main ground to the switch ground? Or should I just run another ground wire into the door if i’m going to run two for the ground paths?
I assume this answer will be the same for the sunroof switch also I know some cars you can not tap into the wires at the switch for the motor side. Is this true for our cars or can I run all 4 wires off the switch area (two switch side two motor side)? Also do I need to do anything special to get the motor to stop when the sunroof is full open/closed? I know out tegs are not resistance based so the motor will keep going I’m assuming I will simply need a pulse timer to have it close when armed but will the vent and open options work without one?
You do not need to run a ground for the ground path(s), use the switch ground fot that, run a single ground for the 520T main ground.
I will have to check about the sun roof, in most cases you will need to go the the motor leads, to bypass relays and limit switches.
You may only be able to get roof close. 94
Ok so run the motor ground path to the switch ground (the small wire for switch large wire on window harness) and then run a seperate ground for the 530T main brain (small wire from brain)
I looked in the schematic for the teg and it looks like the switch is actually after the relay for some reason and goes straight to the motor but I could be wrong. Would I need a pulse timer for the close function to make sure the motor shuts off?
The ground at the switch is the input ground "path’ of the pass. window(s) the it does go directly to the motor(s) through the pass. window(s) on/off safety switch.
The power window systemin Honda/Acura is a “ground at rest” system, both leads going to motors are grounds, when window buttone is rocked for up or down the ground is “lifted” of one of the leads and 12V power is supplied to that lead, motor runs in on direction, rock the switch the other way and the ground is “lifted” of the other motor lead and power is supplied to it, motor runs in other direction.
The safety on/off switch cuts the ground to the pass. window motors so even if the switch supplies the power, there is no ground, motor does not turn.
Yes the switch is after the relay, the window relay supplies the switch(s) with power.
You will not need a pulse timer, the 530T has a resistance cut off switch built in. 94
Ok I got the windows I will hook both the motor ground paths to that wire and run a new ground wire.
As far as the sunroof your saying taping into the wires off the switch should work then and use the ground path as the same here run it to the black wire and run the module ground to a vehicle ground
Alright sorry I read it differently let me know if you can help me out
The only reason to hook up to the switch ground is to keep the passenger lockout. If you don’t care about that then you can ground them with the main to chassis ground.
Don’t forget you also have to go into the passenger doors to get automotion from passengers switches.
[QUOTE=Luciferi;2152545]The only reason to hook up to the switch ground is to keep the passenger lockout. If you don’t care about that then you can ground them with the main to chassis ground.
Don’t forget you also have to go into the passenger doors to get automotion from passengers switches.[/QUOTE]Wait, what?
Connecting to the switch ground has nothing to do with keeping the pass. lock out, to do that you would have to connect the pass, window ground path lead inside the main switch, the pass window ground(s) is internal, the two black switch ground leads are “supplies”, one for the drivers window, [direct] the second for the pass. window(s), [through lockout switch].
You do not have to go to the pass. door to get full automation, that needs to be done only on, [some] cars that have stock pass. automated windows. 94
You post is confusing to me about the grounds and loads. The switches will have no load once the 530t is installed. I took a big leap that you were trying to keep the lockout. Otherwise grounding them at the switch will make no difference or be worse than a new ground. So why not ground them all together inside the car?
You do you need to go into the passenger doors to get automotion from the passenger’s door switches otherwise you will only get automotion from the driver’s door switches.
You already have a ground path lead at the switch, the gauge is correct for window motor load, why not use it?
It also allows you to run a smaller gauge ground into the door for the 530T module.
The 530T in my 94 Integra is wired into the drivers door switch and both my windows are fully automated, is the G2 window wiring diff. somehow??? 94
OK, I gotcha on the grounds. I just got into the habit of running a 12g for all 3 so I have consistent wiring for all cars. I never think about grounding to existing wires anymore, it has been so long it is like a new concept to me. lol
Try control the window from the switch in the passengers door and see what happens. The drivers controls for drivers and passenger windows get one touch but all the switches in passengers’ doors won’t. The passenger switches act like normal, not one touch. The switches’ 12v output goes directly to the motor and not to the 530t inputs.
With way the 530t works you can tricky with the wiring and not have to run 4 wires to each door. Remove the passenger switch series feed wires(the 530t motor outputs) from the switch and wire them directly to the motors and then run the 2 switch outputs wires with small gauge wires back to the 530t. Parallel those with the drivers’ passenger trigger wires. When the motors are hooked up to the 530t directly you no longer need a ground at the switches(unless the switch has lights use that ground a common ground)