Ok so i was having trouble with my POWER driver side window a few months back, it wasnt rolling up or down, so then after a while it started working on it’s own for like 5 months it worked.
I always had to pull it up and push it down while rolling it because it was get stuck and i’d hear the grinding from the motor i believe. I dont think it’s the switch box, i bought a new one…and i removed the dust from the old one.
The key words here are…
The rotational grinding…when that happens it feels as if the window wasnt connected to the regulator so i’d push down a lil and it would continue to go down. Same thing with going up, i’d have to help pull it up but the motor would do the rest…
Can anyone tell me if it’s the motor or not? I grounded it but still no power…it went out yesterday.
I think its the motor but i wanna be sure before i go drop Dime on something i dont need…
Lemme know guys…
it’s a 93 integra rs sedan
UPDATE
So anyways i went to the junkyard bought another motor and regulator. I assume the regulator is the metal rails connected to the motor, I hooked them up and the motor still isnt running, i tried running and heat and ground to it and no luck, the motor will not go…
Anyone know what it could be…Relay or bad fuse? it’s gotta be one or the other right, cuz i mean the motor is good…i just wasted 22 bucks on a second one that’s my fault, what you guys think…you guys always hook it up and give me insight, that’s why i come to you. thanks, please me let know, i needa get this fixed before this weekend is over so when i go to school no one breaks into my car, thanks…
BTW I bought a new switch panel but it wasnt the switch i even opened it up thinking it was the gust which i removed but it still wasnt that…please help.
It is hard to say what may be wrong but if you could hear a grinding noise on the old motor then it needed replacing anyway.
Start by checking the left power window fuse, fuse 7 - 20A, [hot in run] in under dash fuse box, replace it even if it looks good, then confirm you have 12V+ on the white/yellow lead at the switch panel, [with ign. switch in the run position].
If the above is good unplug and confirm you have a ground on both the red/blue and red/yellow at the plug that goes to the window motor, then rock the switch and confirm that the red/blue and the red/yellow switch from ground to 12V+, red/blue for up and red/yellow for down.
Did you test the new motor before you installed it?:stare:94
The motor i assume just gave out, I havent installed the newer motor yet, how would i go about making sure this works? any local ground and a hot? or do i even need a hot to check it?
Just need some info on how to do that, im doing this solo…so i need to connect anything to the battery?
The window motor, just like door lock motors are polarity reversing, you need 12V+ and 12V-, [ground] for it to work, to test you need to supply the terminals on the motor that the red/blue and red/yellow leads go to, the other two terminals are for a ground loop for the auto down system, DO NOT put power to them.
It does not matter which way you put power and ground to the red/blue and red/yellow terminals, one way will make the window motor go up the other way will make it go down.:whisper:94
prolly my last question, how exactly do i connect these wires to get power? is a ground where i get the power from…do i just have them touching a ground?
You can get both the power and the ground off the batt. or you can get power from the constant power free pin on the under dash fuse box and the ground from any part of the cars chassis.
You may even be able to pull the motor plug out of the door enough so you can plug it into the new motor/regulator:whisper:94