Hey guys just got a 90 DB1 and threw an LS motor in it. same year obd0 howver the guy i got the car from ripped out all the AC. but the fans were still there. But my main cooling fan wont turn on after idling for so long. So is there a way i can Wire this Fan up to my cruise control switch? since i dont have cruise control either. FCM your input is needed 
the electrical god here on G2ic :rockon: I read your thread about properly wiring up the Fog lights. Is that the same way i would want to do this one?
You really need to figure out why it dosent turn on before you start ripping into it. May be the fan, may be the relay, may be the sensor, a short? If your in a bind you can just hook the 2 wires that run to the sensor off and hard wire them.
Ill let FCM chime in and tell you how to hardwire it, if you really want to go that route.
I have to agree with sick_DA, find out why it’s not working.
Are both the fans still there, [rad fan and condenser fan]?
No point in wiring anything only to find out rad fan is bad, test the fan(s) to see if it works, [power and ground directly from batt.] if it works test for power on the white lead going to the rad fans blue/black lead, if there is no power check fuse 12-15A, [hot at all times] in under dash fuse box.
If there is power on the white lead the problem may be the ECT switch or relay, you will need to do some tests at the rad fan relay. 94
but if you really want to, you can do this… run 2 wires into your dash through a pre-existing hole that has wires through it, your choice, then test the wires on the back find out which have conituity with eachother when the button is pressed and when it isn’t pressed has no conituity…
Solder/crimp/what ever you like one of the wires you ran to either wire on the switch, run a new ground to anywhere to the switch, attach the ground to the other wire on the switch (you want to have ground on the wire going to your fan)
Then, the other wire from the fan run it to your kick panel spades that offer 12v (seen in the teg tips section) probably best to use the on with ignition on spade.
turn your car on, if you wired that properlly you should be good to go…
if you want to grab a 5 dollar switch from radio shack or something, you can wire it the same way as I just explained… up to you… I really suggest figuring out whats wrong first lol… pick a part for the win…
Okay, will test it tomorrow to make sure the fan isn’t bad. And no only the cooling fan is left. The A/C fan was taken out. Could this be the reason its not working?
[QUOTE=Generation2;2101516]Okay, will test it tomorrow to make sure the fan isn’t bad. And no only the cooling fan is left. The A/C fan was taken out. Could this be the reason its not working?[/QUOTE] No, or I should say it should not.
The rad fan is controlled by the ECT switch, it supplies a ground to the rad fan relay, [yellow/green lead] the relay supplies the rad fan with a ground.
When A/C is on and the condenser fan comes on it will also turn on the rad fan, parallel connection through A/C diode pack to the yellow/green, ground.
The rad fan can also be turned on by the rad fan control module, triggered by the engine oil temp switch, [USDM only, CDM Integras do not have a RFCM or the EOTS]
Removing the A/C, even the RFCM and the EOTS should not prevent the rad fan from working.
Let me know if the rad fan is working, if it is we can test the rest at the rad fan relay. 94
Tested and cooling fan does work. Now that i changed tested it actually comes on when it is supposed to. it just takes quite some time.
Sorry to bump this but it’s related to my question. I want to hard wire my rad fan as well to turn on when I turn the car on, and off when I turn the car off. I have a boosted application and I need it cooler than when the fan turns on, which seems to be around 210 degrees and cools the engine to about 200 and then stops.
Any advice?
[QUOTE=IntegraC;2165027]Sorry to bump this but it’s related to my question. I want to hard wire my rad fan as well to turn on when I turn the car on, and off when I turn the car off. I have a boosted application and I need it cooler than when the fan turns on, which seems to be around 210 degrees and cools the engine to about 200 and then stops.
Any advice?[/QUOTE]
its really not going to do you any good to do this,
as the temp that your thermostat is set on is going to limmit how cool it will stay inside the block.
ie. if your thermostat is set to open at 200degs. the temp in the block will stay at 200degs. you can cool the rad down to 50degs and it will never see the block untill the thermo opens. and then its right back to the 200degs. its not going to get any cooler than what your thermo is set to open at.
if your fan works right now leave it at that. if you really wanted to you could but a new thermo that opens at a lower temp, and also get a relay that will close at a lower temp.
Hmm ok didn’t realize that. I have an OEM thermo that opens at 195, if I get one that opens at a lower temp do I need the relay you mentioned? Not understanding why I’d need it.
Thanks.
[QUOTE=IntegraC;2165041]Hmm ok didn’t realize that. I have an OEM thermo that opens at 195, if I get one that opens at a lower temp do I need the relay you mentioned? Not understanding why I’d need it.
Thanks.[/QUOTE]
im not 100% it is a relay. it may just be the thermo switch itself.
the thermostat controls the water flow into the engine. there for it will open, at 195 and stay open untill it gets lower than that.
the fans work on ther own system. when the temp inside the engine gets to ??? degs it will kick the fan on.
soo. if you have a stat that opens at say 150, and the switch for the fan wont come on untill you get to 210. the stat will open and water will flow, and when temps reach 210 the fan will come on.
driving down the raod will keep the temps down depending on amb temp outside, and how hard your on your car. but sitting at an idle, or in city traffic, its still going to take the system reaching the 210 for the fan to come on.
210 is a guess, not an exact temp.
dose that help?
Well based on what you said, it still comes down to the rad fan, not the thermostat. Because if the fan doesn’t come on till say 210 degrees, which I believe mine does, then having a lower setting thermostat won’t do crap to help cool my radiator if the fan isn’t on, no? Because if the radiator isn’t cooling down, it’ll just circulate hot coolant throughout since the thermo would be open.