My car has been idling rough for as long as I’ve had it. Finally, I raise it to 1,000 RPM and the idle is PERFECT! It feels like a near-luxury Acura instead of a lawn mower at a stop light.
Edit: Nevermind, my idle sucks again. as do these:
If the idle was perfect it wouldn’t be a 1,000 rpms. You just masked the issue.
I had a big ass fuel leek and i fixed it with duct tape:rockon: Just have to replace every other 10 min.
To be honest, I really don’t care about the underlying issue because I’m getting a brand new car next year. I jus want it to last another 6,000 miles.
i think my idle issues back in the day were the result of a TPS sensory?
shit…does that even make sense? lol
You’ve just wasted a lil bit more gas.
Turn your idle back to where it was before and clean your IACV. A dirty IACV can cause your car to idle badly…
It isn’t that hard and your car will thank you for it…
[QUOTE=hybrid90;2148477]You’ve just wasted a lil bit more gas.
Turn your idle back to where it was before and clean your IACV. A dirty IACV can cause your car to idle badly…
It isn’t that hard and your car will thank you for it…
http://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35534[/QUOTE]
I just had a brand new aicv installed last month. That isn’t the problem.
well, have you made any other effort towards correcting the problem? our cars aren’t all that complex.
pull codes?
check for vacuum leaks?
those are probably the first things i’d do, along with cleaning the iacv.
your fitv may be malfunctioning as well sending the wrong temp to the pcm and thus adjusting timing incorrectly.
as stated previously, could be the tps. you’d have to check voltage and be sure it’s within spec.
but yeah, be cost efficient. don’t fire parts at it. try to isolate the problem.
pulling the codes (if there are any) will shoot you in the right direction. searching for vacuum leaks will only cost you the price of a can of intake cleaner or ether
see how excited you got just from masking the problem? imagine how good it will feel to actually solve it. fun stuff :read:
[QUOTE=welfare;2148994]well, have you made any other effort towards correcting the problem? our cars aren’t all that complex.
pull codes?
check for vacuum leaks?
those are probably the first things i’d do, along with cleaning the iacv.
your fitv may be malfunctioning as well sending the wrong temp to the pcm and thus adjusting timing incorrectly.
as stated previously, could be the tps. you’d have to check voltage and be sure it’s within spec.
but yeah, be cost efficient. don’t fire parts at it. try to isolate the problem.
pulling the codes (if there are any) will shoot you in the right direction. searching for vacuum leaks will only cost you the price of a can of intake cleaner or ether
see how excited you got just from masking the problem? imagine how good it will feel to actually solve it. fun stuff :read:[/QUOTE]
I have done sooo much to fix my horrible idle. I checked and fixed vacuum leaks, replaced IACV, cleaned fuel injectors, and a bunch of other things. BTW, my idle sucks again and I have a whole new list of problems 
Get a swap:werd:
honestly, dude. if it’s killing you so much, just have a shop look at it.
I have taken it to several shops, spending several thousand dollars on this problem alone. I’m convinced that it can’t be fixed at this point.
sweet jesus. wtf did they do?
i’m serious. post a list. that way we can cancel things out
I don’t believe that unless you took it to one of them hole in the ground shops that don’t know the difference between a PCV valve from a o2 censor.
well we all now how some shops can string people along as if it were an art.
ex. 1500$ bill for a head job on a dodge aries
H. Heaven in Huntington Beach, CA is the certified Honda-Acura specialist that I go to. I don’t mean to speak poorly of them, but I got screwed over in repair bills and I know it, but it was still 2/3 what the stealership wanted. It was actually a little over $2,000 just to stop vibration/shaking, I accidently figured in the antenna motor and mast and the brake master cylinder. Here is what I have had done just for engine vibration:
-Replace motor and transmission mounts
-clean throttle body
-Replace Idle Control Valve
-“fuel injection service”
-adjust RPM to 750 multiple times, but it just kept creeping back down, even when I adjusted it to 1000 RPM after their failed attempts.
-And some other misc. stuff
Id just keep taking the car back tell they fix it right.
It sounds like if he did that, he could have spent the money on two replacement DAs instead and still may have idle issues at the end of it.
I’m stoked that I never have to take my car to a mechanic. A buddy of mine took his '97 Civic to a mechanic after “blowing his motor” several years ago. Initially the mechanic gave him a quote of ~$700 to have it fixed. Every week or so my buddy called the shop only to find out that no work had been done to the car and that the estimate had gone up by ~$200. The estimate kept climbing over time(while the car just sat at the shop with nothing being done to it. The mechanic hadn’t even pulled the head to see what had happened to the internals). Eventually, the mechanic told him that for $300 he’d take the car off of my friend’s hands. At this point, I decided to get involved. I told my friend to have the car towed to my house so I could look at it(I live ~150 miles away). Two weeks(and ~$500) later, I drove the car back up to his place to drop it off in tip top shape.
-nino