i dunnoe if this is real or not. im not planning on buying it but if it is real then thats great to know theres a 13second b18a/b. need your opinions of this fake or not
[i]DPR built LS motor for sale
We are selling the following as a package. We will not spit this up.
1995 LS motor B18B
Block:
JEpistons
Shot peened and polished rods
full blue print and balance
all new bearings
etc.
new timing belt, water pump
Head:
DPR stage 6 port job
web valve springs and retainers and swirl polished valves.
Skunk2 silver cam gears
1 set of Web street cams
1 set of Web Race only cams
skunk2 matchported intake manifold
DC 4 into one header and race exhaust setup.
NGK wires
Less than 2500miles on the engine. Comes with paperwork
Raced one time. ran a 13.4 at CMI. car was a full bodied street car and this was with street cams. at the time it made about 185 to the wheels. With new cams and tuning it can make more power.
Its definately possible in a hatch on slicks. Please don’t under estimate non vtec setups! I think 2002 will be a big year for LS’s! A lot of guys locally and on the boards seem to be building up some nice engines!
Dan had a full interior and his engine (from what I gather on his feelings about saying that anything higher than 403’s is not streetable IHO) is probably quite friendly sounding. With race cams and a stripped/semi-stripped interior, why couldn’t that engine with ~185hp to the wheels?
You are going to need a near 200whp Integra and some slicks to get you into the 13s. Our cars even with gutted interiors are not the best “drag chassis” becuase they weigh so damn much (for an import). I think it’s possible to run 13s on an LS block ALL MOTOR. But I can gurantee you that the car would not be even close to streetable. it would barely idle and it would be gutted to all hell. This is something I found out the hard way. Even my 403s slightly tuned for racing loped like there was no tomorrow. It was irritating to say the least. Now if someone does run a 13second quarter with full interior and all motor LS, I’ll bow down and post my apologies for being wrong. But 13s are a lot harder to hit that some of you think (without NOS or FI). For all of you with LS motors aspiring to hit 13s, I honestly wish you the best of luck.
Dan do you see a $2500 B16a running a 13 before a $2500 B20 with a ported head and cams? No sarcasm, just pure question. I personally think it’ll take a heck of a lot more to get a b16a running good times compared to a b20 with headwork & cams and a b16a or gsr tranny which would end up costing nearly the same.
I’ve seen an B20/VTEC run the quarter in high 13s with not much done to it, but I’m not sure about the B20. I can tell you that Jeff’s B17A with Mugen PR3 ECU, V-AFC, ITR cams, ITR valve springs, 2 layer head gasket, I/H/E, and cam gears untuned with full interior (including spare and jack) ran a 14.8 on slicks (with a crappy 2.1 60’ time). I see a lot of potential in the small 1.6L & 1.7L DOHC VTEC motors. Jeff’s car is quite fast. I’m sure with some tuning, better driving, and newer slicks he can hit a mid to low 14. I’m positive on that. And if he upped his compression a bit to like 10.8 - 11.5:1, got some good head work, I’m sure he would be knocking on the 13s quarter mile barrier.
I don’t have a lot of experience with the B20, so perhaps I’m not the person to ask about this. But I do have loads of experience with VTEC setups. And me…I’m a firm believer in the potential of a VTEC swap.
Originally posted by teg92 Dan do you see a $2500 B16a running a 13 before a $2500 B20 with a ported head and cams? No sarcasm, just pure question. I personally think it’ll take a heck of a lot more to get a b16a running good times compared to a b20 with headwork & cams and a b16a or gsr tranny which would end up costing nearly the same.
Logically speaking, a b20 with the cams and headwork will blow the doors off a b16a. Just put some 8500rpm cams on it (with comp./fuel support) and it HAS to make more power than the smaller displacement b16. Might be a dog down low and it sure won’t last as long, but it’ll make more power.
Vtec’s not a displacment replacment, just a souped up engine that can idle.
d
ps Am i the only one who looks at everything backwards?
Here’s my concern… who’s to say that 10+ year old b16a with who knows how much milage is going to last longer than a b20b/z with a known history with known components & safer valvetrain driven properly???
Rich, unless you owned the car that the B20 came out of, how can you know the history of it…unless you buy one brand new. What you do when you get your B16A is change out the vitals (timing belt, water pump, tensioner, maybe even the oil pump), swap out valve springs for ITR or better valve springs, and do a solid compression check. We do know that JDM motors have near 30,000 miles on them. Even driven hard, that’s not a lot of miles.
Daver, show me a dyno plot of a B20 with cams that make power to 8500rpm (non-VTEC head) and I’ll be a believer. More displacement doesn’t always mean FASTER. Just ask the Preludes GUTTED why they are smelling my exhaust fumes. The B16A is a great motor, spins up very quickly and is very efficient. It’s just not a torque monster. Big deal. I’ve ridden in B16A Tegs and it’s not a huge difference. The B20 will definitely have the B16A on the line, but the B16A powered Teg will catch up in a hurry at higher rpms. If both had good cams, it would be an interesting race.
For all intents and purposes, a built LS motor is the worst thing in the world. At the race track it’s fine, no problem. But when you move into the realm of daily driving, stop and go traffic, even parallel parking… . it’s CRAP. If any of you have really driven or ridden in a car with a built LS motor, you will understand that it really isn’t the best motor for a daily driver. It idles dirty and inconsistent, so inconsistent that you’re laying on the pedal just to keep the motor alive. Forget it. It’s one thing having a fast car, but it’s another thing if you’re actually driving it on the street and sputtering around town.
About the B20 motor? I don’t know. To each his own, all I can say is I still view it as a truck motor ala Nissan KA24.
VTEC is not a replacement for displacement, but I would rather make descent streetable power with a clean smooth idle over the LS/B20 option anyday.
John, we know the CR/VTEC makes great power and idles fine. But this topic was about a straight out B20 setup (non-VTEC) vs. a B16A. Besides, what motor are you replacing your B20 with? hehehehe…just giving you a bad time
Originally posted by teg92 Errr. stop swaying me guys, my head is at the shop and hasn’t been touched yet. You’re making me change my mind!!!
Don’t be swayed, stand strong. You’re doing the right thing. Did Dan go FI when everyone told him that was what you had to do to make big power? Well, I don’t know if people told him that or not, but look at him now and how much respect he gets. I think we’d all like that someday. You could have the fastest NA LS on the boards. Maybe I’ll have the fastest nonvtec NA B20 on the boards one day. That is if I can get my car drivable again. And don’t forget if you’re just doing stuff to the head right now, you can always swap the head onto a b20 block later and probably pick up another 20 or 30hp and ft-lbs right there.
dont start that nonVTEC vs. VTEC discussion here because it can go on FOREVER. the main question here is can a NONvtec motor hit 13s in an integra body?
ive heard of LS’s hitting 14s with bolts ons, crower 404s and CTR pistons. but do you think with some more work you can hit 13s [slicks, headwork, better intake manifold, etc]?
Originally posted by 2simplex dont start that nonVTEC vs. VTEC discussion here because it can go on FOREVER. the main question here is can a NONvtec motor hit 13s in an integra body?
ive heard of LS’s hitting 14s with bolts ons, crower 404s and CTR pistons. but do you think with some more work you can hit 13s [slicks, headwork, better intake manifold, etc]?
Yes I believe it is very possible. Are you restricting it to a b18 nonvtec engine because, although it’s possible with a b18, I think it would be easier to hit 13’s with a b20 block or maybe a bored and/or sleeved b18 block? I’ve seen dynos of b20s with basic boltons and cams hitting 150 to 160whp. If you did serious work to it (i.e. pistons, cams, balance crank, chip ECU, p&p head, close geared vtec tranny, remove any extra weight you can and that’s just to name a few things off the top of my head) I don’t see why you couldn’t get 200whp and 160 to 180 torque at the wheels. Now you get a real stiff suspension and some really good slicks and you can hit 13’s.
