Thank you, that’s really helpful. I’ve got a couple more questions. Stock compression? Stock ecu? Also, do you to remember what size tires were on the car for that dyno run? I’m trying to figure out approximately what RPM that power peak is at and when I use the stock tire size for a 3rd gear run it gives me 7300 rpm, which seems a little fishy to me seeing how stock it’s supposed to peak at 7600.
Thanks.
Jordan,
Engine has never been broken open, stock compression, stock ecu and the tire size if I remember correctly was 205 x 50 x 15".
Sorry never noticed the posted graph was done in MPH, when I get a chance to get back on the old computer with the dyno graphs I will post up a graph with the X axis in RPMs
[QUOTE=DB2-R81;1927344]
Yes, I have a few dyno sheets from a number of different sessions and different dynos on hard copy, I will need to thumb through my records for them and do some scanning. I will post them when I get some time. They have been on this forum over the years at various times however likely long ago deleted.[/QUOTE]
[QUOTE=DB2-R81;1927367]Ok here is a file that was sitting on an old computer,
the dyno was done 30/05/99.
I will keep looking and post up any more recent others I can come up with.[/QUOTE]Marc, I’m almost positive I have more recent dyno plots (with video) of your car from when we went to Bellingham to do a couple of pulls on their dyno down there. When I get back home to the Lower Mainland (I’m currently in Kimberley & Cranbrook this week for work) and find them, I’ll post them up if you want. I myself have to go back somewhere and do some tuning with the new motor.
jdi: I admire your goals and efforts and look forward to your updates. Best of luck to you sir.
Thanks DB2-R81 and Ive. I figured out where I was going wrong in the MPH->RPM conversion. I was using the tire diameter instead of rolling distance, so tire deformation wasn’t accounted for. If I use the rolling distance of a typical 205/50/15 tire it gives me 7500-7600 for the peak power RPM, which matches with what I’d expect from a mostly stock B17. I would have thought that the ITR cams would move the power peak up a bit, but maybe the stock ECU prevents that.
I continued taking parts off the car last weekend. I spent way too long getting the exhaust manifold off thanks to a very stubborn nut that had become one lump of rust together with the stud it was on. Had to break out the drill to get it off :mad:. Two the studs in the head for the exhaust were sheared off before I even touched it, so I’ll have to deal with those too. I also removed the intake resonators, mud flaps, fender liners and bumper.
I think it’s crazy how many resonators there are on that intake system. 3 helmholtz resonators if you count the double resonator in the fender well as two, plus 2 quarter pipes.
I’ve still got a long ways to go before I can start putting the thing back together.
The car as it currently stands:
Naval Jelly!!!
No pictures this time, but I did spend another day on the project. The fenders, doors and sunroof are now off the car. Another few days of taking stuff out and I should be ready to start thinking about the roll cage. I’m going to be really busy at work for the next few months, so that probably won’t happen until early next year.
I’ve also weighed a lot of parts as I’ve been taking them off. I haven’t seen a list anywhere of how much weight can be taken out of an Integra, so I’ll start one here. Some of the parts in this list won’t be removed from my car, but I’ve included them as a reference for others. I’ll be weighing more parts as they come off the car, so this list will grow.
Seatbelts (CDM): 14 lbs
Carpet: 9 lbs
Headliner: 3 lbs
Center console panel including shift boot, cigarette lighter and storage bucket thing: 2 lbs
Parcel tray: 7 lbs
Sun visors: 2 lbs
Inner door panels including power lock switch: 15 lbs
Interior rear quarter panels: 15 lbs
Rear speaker mounts and covers, C-pillar inner panels, spare tire cover: 7 lbs
1 gallon windshield washer fluid: 9 lbs
Spare tire, jack and tools: 29 lbs
Windows, window motors, window guides from doors: 31 lbs
Knee panels, kick panels, e-brake panel, front speaker covers: 3 lbs
Rear hatch panel and trunk rear panel: 5 lbs
Miscellaneous interior bits (grab handles, small panels, dome lights, etc): 6 lbs
AC System including compressor with bracket, condenser, evaporator, lines, drying canister (not including ac compressor fan): 43 lbs
Exhaust Manifold (Upper & Lower): 26 lbs
Exhaust, including catalytic converter and heat shields: 44 lbs
Side moldings: 3 lbs
Power mirrors: 7 lbs
GS-R intake (everything before the throttle body including resonators + air filter): 8 lbs
Sunroof: 35 lbs
Front bumper: 32 lbs
Battery: 32 lbs
Hatch struts: 2 lbs
Doors (without windows, window motors and window guides): 86 lbs
Stuff that’s been removed that I haven’t gotten around to weighing:
Seats
Floormats
Fender liners & mud flaps
AC compressor fan
CD player & speakers
Power antenna
Stuff that will be removed before I’m done:
Sound deadening tar
Firewall insulation
Undercoating
Steering column cover panels
Rear seat & seatbelt mounting brackets
Jack & tools mounting bracket
Hood insulation
Speaker & power antenna wires
AC wiring and electrical bits
Door inside metal panels
ABS
Stuff that I want to replace with lighter equivalents:
Wheels & tires
Springs & dampers
Clutch disk & pressure plate
Crank, alternator & power steering pulleys
lovin the weight measuring. thanks for taking the time and weighing it all out.
BTW, you got email…
DAve
i love this thread… lets keep it to the top… lots of valuable info in here for me at least!:rockon:
thanks a bundle for all those measurements…
anyways you can get a accurate reading on your power/vs non power window/door setup?
i’ve also know that rear hatch = about 40-45 lbs, rear glass is about 20-25lbs
cf rear hatch is 10-12 lbs and FAL window is under5 lbs
Hello Jordan,
Good work on the weights, never took the time to weigh most of those long gone parts, just kept a total weight of the car during corner weighing.
Roldan started a weight list at one time don’t know if it is still around.
What is your minimum legal race weight?
If you have any interest in looking at my cage for some ideas on yours give me a call or drop me an email.
[QUOTE=DB2-R81;1939149]
Roldan started a weight list at one time don’t know if it is still around.
What is your minimum legal race weight?
.[/QUOTE]
I searched for “roldan”
Invalid $idname specified.
JDI, are you planning on filling in the sunroof, or putting cap on it? are you planning on running any interior at all? or convert power to manual windws?
Thanks Marc,
Yeah, I’d like to take a look at your cage. I’m really busy with work right now, but in a couple months I’ll have some free time. I have a pretty good idea of how I’m going to do mine, but looking at working examples never hurts :).
Minimum weight is 2430 lbs, with driver. I weigh ~170 lbs with driving suit and helmet. I’m not sure how much the cage will weigh, but I’ll guesstimate ~130 lbs at the minimum. That puts me at ~500 lbs that I’d have to take off the car to hit minimum legal race weight. With the restrictions for the class, I think it’ll be really hard to get that much out of the car, but we’ll see. I can account for 400 lbs without much of a stretch, but that last 100 lbs will be difficult.
A lot of the easier lightweight options like carbon fiber hood or tiny battery are illegal for me. If they weren’t, getting 500 lbs out of the car would be easy.
The 2430 weight is for ITS, for IP3 the minimum weight is 2543 (curb weight minus 100) with driver, so I’ll have to put in ballast for those races.
viprtwo:
When I put the doors from the RS on to The Ugly One I’ll weigh the manual window mechanism and post how much of a weight loss it’s worth vs. the power windows. To be honest, I don’t think it’ll be more than maybe 5-10 lbs to do both the driver and passenger side.
Due to rule restrictions for the class the car will be raced in, I’m making a plug out of sheet metal for the sunroof. I had thought that I would swap the roof skin from the RS over, but talking with some people who are more familiar with the SCCA Improved Touring rules revealed that this is likely illegal and could get me in trouble if I start to win races. Not worth it, in my opinion. The doors will be half gutted. No glass or window motors and the inside metal panel will be cut out to make room for the roll cage, but the side impact bars and the wiring harnesses need to stay. Interior will be almost completely removed. I need to keep the dashboard and most of the stuff inside it, but that’s about all.
would you consider swapping the front and rear bumper supports for JDM variants that are much lighter?
Are you allowed to add in extra reinforcements for safety?
No bumper support swaps.
Yes, I can add extra reinforcements. That’s the roll cage :-).
Update on part weights:
Front & rear fender liners and mud guards: 7 lbs
Front fenders: 13 lbs
AC compressor fan: 4 lbs
Radiator fan: 4 lbs
Radiator including lower hose: 9 lbs
I too am biulding a IP integra for mission but I could not find the GSR so I will have to run the 1.8 which sucks cause the displacemant bumps me into a higher class.
is that a bullet shot?
Bullet shot? Where?
So far as I can tell, lots of rust but no projectile damage :-).
Chris, I was wondering if you had managed to track down a B17. I was looking forward to seeing what you could do with one of these, but they really are tough to find.
Nah, not so difficult, I have two of them, Hehe!
They do pop up fairly regularly if I hear of anything I will let you guys know.
[QUOTE=viprtwo;1939216]I searched for “roldan”
Invalid $idname specified.[/QUOTE]Roldan’s screen name is “MrFrost”, although I can’t find his weight-list that he had from way back when either.
I’ve put the weight information that I currently have into a spreadsheet here:
http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=pKxooL4M291ektRVualMtNg
Some of the weights are estimated, and are marked as such. All other weights I’ve measured myself, so they should be accurate to within a pound or so.
I’ll be updating this spreadsheet as more stuff gets weighed.