I am wondering what I could get to get around 200+ horsepower
out of my b18b. I have seen some things about pistons and cams that advertise 178whp. I want to get around 200 but do it all motor not turbo or nitrous. I have possibly thought supercharging it but would rather go all motor. So any help would be greatly appreciated
so a search and you will find out I know you can get 200 hp but it will take a lot of work and a lot of bling bling to get there in a non vtec set up… But do a search and find out
200whp in a NA non-vtec is not streetable AT ALL. a member has a barely streetable 160hp @the wheels LS, with like a Gude performance head. I would bet that 200whp out of a NA LS is nearly impossible.
Get a b20. If you search over at honda tech there are a few guys that are making 140-150 whp with very minimal mods. That would be a good starting point.
Ben
here this set up is dyno’d at 200HP
its as follows…he used a 96 GSR
JUN TYPE 3 CAMS
CAM GEARS, FUEL PRESSURE REG
APEX V-AFC
JDM ITR 4-1 HEADER
COLD AIR INTAKE
max torque is = at 135.1
Originally posted by infamous187
[B]here this set up is dyno’d at 200HP
its as follows…he used a 96 GSR
JUN TYPE 3 CAMS
CAM GEARS, FUEL PRESSURE REG
APEX V-AFC
JDM ITR 4-1 HEADER
COLD AIR INTAKE
max torque is = at 135.1 [/B]
That sounds like that isn’t enough for 200 WHP. Does it have an head work? block? new pistons? that just sounds like I/H/E and JUN stage 3 cams.
This is like using a pogo stick as your means of transportation. Yes it can work, but if there is an easier way to do what you want then why not? Most people tend to think attaining HP in a naturally aspirated method is cheaper than forced induction. They also think it is more reliable. These two theories are both completely false.
Why dont you fill us in as to why you have decided to stay with the b18a and why you have decided to stay naturally aspirated. If your reasoning is to be different, then more power to you. Just understand that if there is anything out there that is expensive along with very unpredictable, it is being different. If you have other reasoning for this, then please share.
200 whp N/A with a notec engine? here’s a quick rundown:
Resleeve (darton, golden eagle, aebs) and bore out to 85 or 86mm.
No less quality (and this is low-end) than Eagle rods; i’d recommend probably crower
Endyn-modified wiseco pistons (compression depends on bore size, will range from 12.28:1 low side for 85mm bore up to 13.32:1 high side for 86mm bore–several factors determine final compression ratio)
ACL race bearings
Crank Micropolished and balanced
Hybrid Garage Block Girdle (full 5-main girdle with dowel pins, not like that weaksauce z-10 crap)
Cometic head gasket
Alaniz competition headwork (bare minimum; i’d actually recommend their full race-spec headwork especially on the non-vtec heads which don’t flow nearly as well as the vtec heads)
Ferrea Stainless valves (intake and exhaust) 1mm oversize
Crower valvetrain, get the retainers TiN coated at Brycoat
Crower 62404 (at very least, might actually want to go with 405’s instead) cams
Of course, this doesn’t include the bare minimum of 2 hours’ dyno time tuning, as well as the standalone management you’ll need to run. As you can see, it’s far from an inexpensive project, and definitely not something for the inexperienced tuner or someone with low dedication. You’re looking at around probably 6000-7000 on engine work alone, and this is all for a setup that won’t be able to be run on the street. With the compression you’ll need to be running a BARE MINIMUM of 102 octane, probably c16 race gas. Also, your idle on those cams will sound worse than a harley davidson. Best of luck to you though, and keep us posted on your dyno results when you’re done!
You’ll need oversize valves.
Subject: LS head (200HP possible) ALANIZ
Dear Tom:
We also do competition head work on LS heads ($875.00). The one
thing is if you want it to flow as good as a B16 or GSR you have
to also replace the valves with Mitsubishi valves and the cost
of putting new valve seats. ($272.00 for 16 valves and $208.00
for all 16 seats, includes labor and seats). The LS head can be
made to flow well and see good HP gains. The problem is it
requires a lot of work and and can get a bit expensive.
Joe Alaniz
And talk to teg92 about monster LS motors. He found the 404’s to be very streetable. He’s also building a beast…
–
Tom
You won’t hit 200whp in a non vtec with 404’s. Even with a built motor, you most likely won’t hit 200, I can see 170-180’s but 200’s no. There was that one guy, HXGuy on honda-tech with a built b20, 404’s 12.5 cr and basically a built motor, and he only hit 170’s if I remember right. He ended up selling his non-vtec head and went with a vtec head and hit around 230hp with junIII cams. That extra 20whp is going to be extremely hard to get.
Originally posted by zoomintegra
Also, your idle on those cams will sound worse than a harley davidson.
rofl
thats a new one to me.
Back in the day, Halo hit 174@8400 with 404’s on a stock bottom end B18B.
He also said it wasn’t worth the money.
–
Tom
Oh jesus, i know this has been covered a billion times, and please:
bah you fixed it beeyotch
hah!
Yes the reason i wanted to go all motor is to be different, but also i don’t know a lot about turbo’s as far as dependability and i would like to keep my motor around for a while. I was told that a turbo is the best hp gain for the cash so now i have a few questions: how dependable is a turbo? should i get forged pistons with it, where would the damned intercooler fit on my little teg, and what is it going to be like on a long trip? Also the gude head package i say did advertise 178hp to the wheels with the head and exhaust. Is this true or are they just plain wierd… If i go turbo what is the best for the money to buy?
why dont you go to the forced induction forum
if your going to give advise make sure it is correct!!!
It is very possible to reach 200whp in a NA ls set up! Those of you who think you have to be vteced have no clue! :giggle: If you went to a 81.5 mm bore with b16b pistons on your stock 89mm stroke rods with a built head (port polish Dual valve springs, titanium retainers stage 2 cams and all the normal bolt on equipment, and use the right clutch and flywheel set up, with the correctly tuned ecu you will be able to hit 200 whp with out a problem, and contrary to most of the guys on here you can safely run your ls bottom end to 9,000 rpm all day long and have no problems? just make sure you get the engine balanced wich will keep your rods running strong and staying in one place instead of slapping the walls! I have built a couple of b18a1 engine setups and have run mine up to 9200rpm and had no problems! And one thing to keep in mind, for all you vtec lovers, the reason the frankenstein is so dahm popular is because you get the bottom end power of the ls engine with the top end power band of vtec, if you build the ls in the way I described you will get all of this in a na ba8a1 non vtec. So stay with your idea and dont listen to everybody on here, especially if they cant tell you exactlly why something wont work! they just dont know or spent to much money doing things the way they did it and dont want to believe that it could have been done a lot cheaper and easier! And just to make it very clear the b16a or b pistons have no problems fitting into any b series engine! just my opinion backed up with actuall build experience with my own to hands, not a shop junkie :ghetto: that believes everything I’m told by a shop that just wants to sell you that overpriced vtec head! Have a good one! and dont mean any disrespect to any members on here but if you are going to put someones ideas down then at least have a clue about what your talking :pupeyes: about and be able to back it up with some sort of proof! :bang:
:salute: to the info w/ first hand experience…
But you do realize the thread is two years old, and most of the posters on here are either inactive and one has been banned?
But…since we are here…
I cannot understand what you mean when you say "you could get both attributes from both types of engines (vtec, torque) out of the ls engine…The ls lack the third lobe on the cams to effctively make power at the high rpm’s while still maintaing streetable drivability…SUre you could get some aftermarket cams that will equal the effect of vtec in the high rpms, but these cams don’t disengage the larger lobe as vtec would, so wouldn’t your idle be shit? I don’t know for a fact, this is just what I concluded from what I have read about on this site.
If vtec gains were easily achieved and streetable in an ls engine, why don’t you see more people doing it?
cuz its vtak yo!