Clean Title
1992 RS
Captiva Blue (original paint)
221k on the cluster
said to be ys1 gsr trans w/ lsd
cracked windshield
broken driver inner door handle (can’t open the door from inside)
jdm headlights
insane vibration from engine (mounts are all stock)
no antenna
no stereo
mismatched 14" steelies
no speakers
stock suspension
front signals don’t work
alignment recently done
Total Price $1600
Within the first week:
Smog the car $55 (passed on first try)
Tore out all the ghetto wiring
Discovered driver engine mount busted ($18 windo-weld, mount is good as new now and vibration is gone)
Found out passenger axle is busted
Fixed and redid most of the wiring
Front signals now work
Driver inner door handle $5 (craigslist special)
6.5" front speakers from frys $20
old kenwood deck laying around the garage (free)
Replaced with new windshield $120
got alignment done $40 (friend who did alignment said bolts haven’t been touched in a very long time)
bought black powder coated HX wheels from my friend $250
Picked up a set of bilstein shocks w/ GC springs $100 (craigslist special)
Found out the original springs were cut while i was swapping suspension
Removed all the decals/stickers on the car
Put back front/rear windshield wiper
Replaced front rotor/pads $65 (kragens) (ones on there were way past due)
Adjusted throttle cable
Adjusted clutch cable
Found out its a YS1 LS transmission w/o LSD (ontop of that transmission grinds into 3rd at high rpms, sucks I wont be able to really race this car)
LOL thanks for taking the time to skim through the long list, I bought this car with the intentions that it was well taken care of considering the body was still clean. But boy was in for a surprise, looks like the previous owner just took care of the body and didn’t bother doing any maintenance work on this thing.
While i’m still trying to fix a few little things to get this car back to original, I will be putting together a LS v-tec setup I have sitting in my garage. Maybe some other mods a long the way.
In the garage for a tear down
Out with all the junk
Super worn front brakes
Stickers that tell cops “pull me over im modified”
Out with the stock suspension
How she sits as of now
Future plans:
Remount the sideskirts
Replace with new front lip
Convert to power window/locks
New JDM headlights
LS mesh wheels
Clean OEM muffler
I have another project car, this is my daily for now.
Thanks to G2 teg tips I found a write up on how to fix this problem. I took off one day while it was raining and blasted the heater, then I heard a bunch of water fly out the foot vent. After some research I noticed it was a common problem, so here is my attempt to fix this problem.
Remove the covers
Here are the main tools you will need for this job
Spreading the love. Looks like you’ve been busy.
How do the Bilsteins and ground controls ride?
If you would be so kind and post the part numbers
for those two I would like to check those out as far as
price. Thanks and keep up the good work.:rockon:
Nice work. Correct me if I’m wrong but, your rear mud guards look like they’re from/for a 90-91 rear bumper. It could just be my bad eyes. Keep up the good work and good luck with the LS/VTEC.
Not sure about the mud guards, they came with the car. But I am interesting in trying to source front mud guards for the complete look.
Are 92-93 mud guards different? I can take some close up pictures if you need a better shot of them.
Forgot to add, I had to take about 2 trips to the local junk yard to get a bunch of interior screws. Not sure what happened but the previous owner liked to eat screws? Every interior panel literally had only 1 screw holding it, thus leading to tons of rattling going over bumps.
I like the way the sun visors are flush with the ceiling. I didn’t know the 92s came like that. My 91gs has a sun roof but the visors don’t go deep into the ceiling like that. And I thought all g2s have map lights. wierd.
Anyways, you said your future plans is to get new JDM headlights? Whats wrong with your one pieces that you have on now?
Driver side is cracked beyond repair, looks like its been hit by something. I realized the camera didn’t catch the broken part of the headlight in the pictures of the first post. But its cracked and looks really ugly.
Also not sure what previous owner did, but I’m not able to adjust the beams on the headlights. I’ve tried to turn all the adjuster screws and the beam doesn’t move.
On another note, I recently installed a G3 integra oem dual bend shifter. It will require some shaving of the bottom eyeball joint to fit our shift linkage. But yes they will fit.
[QUOTE=247racingzx3;2116380]Squeaky clutch pedal no more!
My clutch pedal has been squeaking ever since I got it (2 weeks ago) its been bugging me since but never got around to trying to solve the problem. Today I had some spare time so I got under there to take a look at the clutch assembly.
First off you’ll need 2 basic things; wd-40 and lithium grease…[/QUOTE]
Any tips like this should be make in a separate thread in the correct forum.
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Articles pertaining to G2 Integras and DIY Teg Tips.
Gotcha, I figured it would have been better here since this thread is based on a restoration/build. So others and myself can easily keep track of whats been fixed or replaced on my g2.
Changed out my passenger axle, also found out no LSD (seller said ys1 gsr w/ lsd) :umno:
Friend gave me the wrong axle, so I had to exchange for the right one. Damn supplier putting wrong stuff in the wrong boxes.
Also changed out the rubber pedal pads for some skateboard grip tape. It was raining over here, and i hate it when my foot slips off the clutch or brake.
Also had a DC ls shifter, but the throw was still a little long for me, so i picked up the ebay dual bend shifter. Doing it by yourself is almost impossible when the studs that hold the shifter in spins. So I busted out the mig welder and tack welded the studs down. I put a zip tie on the shifter to hold the shift boot up higher, i didn’t like the look of a saggy shift boot.
The car came with the cup/coin holder but previous owner didn’t cut the back, so the coin holder never closed since it hits the metal housing on the back of the radio area.
Did the LED cluster conversion and also a LED dome light, no pictures of the aftermath. But according to the DIY on another thread, if you have a 92-93 you wont need to order the 2 bulbs that have the bulb holder for it. Newer climate controls don’t use that bulb.
Put everything back together and your done![/QUOTE]
Did you use new O-Rings in the holes where the plastic clips and screws go (tabs)? That is the part that leaks…adding weather stripping where u put it probably wont fix the problem.
Living in Florida where it rains everyday from May-August…I’ve done this fix to many DA’s including my current 2…if you don’t use new o-rings or some kinda silicon sealer in the holes b4 putting the clips in…you leak will continue.
I did not get the new plugs, thinking if my screws still lock down I wont need it. It rained the day after changing the weather stripping and I still saw a leak, so i asked around and found out that the plugs will leak if they’re ripped.
So i’m looking into ordering them, where do you usually buy them from? I called a local dealership and they wanted $5.95 each. I can find them for $1.75 at acuraautomotiveparts.com but shipping is $9.
hey if you are looking in to putting in power windows let me know as i have it from my parts car greazemunkey73@yahoo.com maybe you can get it at the next meet
Usually the dealership, but being a parts dealer myself I have a few connections so I get them fairly cheap.
BUT…
On my wife’s db1, I just pushed the plugs in and surrounded them with Black RTV Silicon (like this)and let it get a bit tacky and then put the plastic screws in! Wish I woulda thought of that earlier! Coulda save the cash on the OEM o-rings
and you’re welcome!
BTW…Be careful with those CSP axles. They dont handle lowered cars very well and break very easily! Nice at the $69 price tag, but thats exactly what they are worth. I have em on my car (lifetime warranty thru Advanced Auto) and replace em twice a year since 2005 at least with normal driving! Both of mine are fucked as we speak!! Easy repair but a pita to change all the time!
My red coupe is an RS as well and I had the opportunity a few years back to make this happen, but with the cost of all the parts and labor involved…its just not worth it imo! Unless he changes the entire dash harness…the power windows won’t work on an RS. There is no harness for PW on an RS. It would be easier to get an after market kit…
[QUOTE=da92nv;2118172]Usually the dealership, but being a parts dealer myself I have a few connections so I get them fairly cheap.
[/QUOTE]
Thanks for the reply, I was considering doing the silicone. But if I can find a good deal for the new plugs I would just replace them and put some silicone behind that in case they break later down the line.
As for the GSP axles I got it for $45, my friend works at a parts store in the area and gets them shop price. I didn’t mind buying it because I don’t plan on lowering the car much, its my DD so I like to keep it a nice wheel gap for comfort.
I’ve done a power window/lock conversion on a civic before, I’m pretty sure its all the same parts. I’d only do it if i can get a good deal on all the parts I need.
, nice work so far!