Whats the best way to go about doing a 5-Lug conv. on a 93?
what chasis should i be looknig for in the junk yards and such, and what all parst will i need to pull?
Hey I’ll help u but MAN!! talk about it u will spent about $1500 or alot more + the ITR 5-Lug rims or any 5-Lug rims.
check this website out http://technet.ff-squad.com/how-to/5lug.ef-da/
& don’t wast time at the JUNK YARDS u will find nothing.
That was a really informative site. Best one I’ve seen yet for 5 lug conversion. Nice find.
well i mean i have only had my DA for a few mounths and im just looking around at options. lol thanks for the link its really what i was looking for. i wish ppl like you [as far as reliable sources] were on MR2OC for my MR2 when i Need help.
Will is good to had an 5-Lug conv. on an DA not like alot of peoples who own an DA do that 5-Lug conv. + I’m the only guy who had a 92 White GS-R with the white ITR 5-Lug rims only.
think ill do this when after i build my motor.
i was also wondering couldnt we use cr-v five lugs??? it shouldnt cost more then like 250 at the junkyard for all 4 spindlies
that does seem like it could work for the front but idk about the rear.
what size axles do crvs have anyway?? the first gen of course
apparently it is possible
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=14&TopicID=202974
[QUOTE=darnizzle8805;1857830]that does seem like it could work for the front but idk about the rear.
what size axles do crvs have anyway?? the first gen of course[/QUOTE]
36mm, same as JDM ITR. but the length is different and you have to do a “hybrid” axle–swap the 36mm outers from the CRV axles onto your own integra axles. Pretty silly hassle if you ask me.
the easiest way for us to go about doing it is to just buy a couple USDM hubs (aftermarket or from the dealer, bout 75-100 bucks each) and source the front brake components individually. Some of us already have the main part, the calipers, so it’s less difficult than one might think. 
For the rears, a full set of trailing arms is best, but it can work with just the hub/bearing combo. If you want better bushing replacement options, a full set of DC RTA’s is recommended.
If you go the route of just the rear hubs, you’ll need the axle nuts (front) for a '94+ Mazda 626. Remove the rear axle nut and washer and replace with the mazda unit.
Of course, for probably less money than sourcing hubs, rotors, calipers, etc. and then paying a machine shop to machine the front hubs to fit your DA bearings, you can just redrill some prelude vtec rotors and use ITR/Legend calipers on the front, and combine 02-03 SI rear rotors and RSX-S rear calipers and you’re good to go with bigger brakes but no lug swap. I think total cost on my brake parts was around $250-$300 including the Legend 2-piston calipers.
Yeah, that is a nice setup with the Legend\EP3\RSX-S combo for some OEM big brakes ^
The total cost of using the CRV hybrid setup would still equal out to less than a full ITR 5 lug swap, though, so it’s good to know that it is possible
Good info Armed, so in the link I posted, it said it’s possible to use the prelude rear hub? I don’t think it’s as simple as bolting right up in the rear, there must be more to it then that…
Love some of the 5 lug rims out there, that’s why I ask, even though big brakes can be achieved for cheap while keeping the 4 lug
For the rears… but it can work with just the hub/bearing combo.
Can you explain to me how you can do a bearing a hub combo on the rear when the DA’s rear spindles are smaller than a DC2.
DA/DC rear trailing arms have the same spindle length. It’s only the ITR that has a slightly longer bearing surface on the spindle than non-R arms.
Therefore, since it fits on DC arms, it fits on DA arms as well. That’s why you use the mazda nut–it’s thinner than the Integra nut, and removing the washer (which isn’t necessary) also helps with thread engagement on the spindle. The mazda nut’s threads are fully engaged, removing possibility of problems.
I’ve had the 5-lug on the car for over 10 years and 150k miles on it.
I have dc knuckles that have been bent to work on the DA. The wheel bearings and hubs are ITR stuff. 3.2 tl 12" brakes on front.
The rear are ITR trailing arms and hub/bearings. ITR rear brakes too.
I’m planning on using new TL 4 pot brembo brakes on the front. The rears are going to get the ITR powerslot plus 12" brake upgrade. The brakes will then be even ft to rear. I also need to plumb and rewire the ITR abs to the car and pitch the POS DA abs system.
I’m hoping that will be the last I need to do with the suspension/brakes. The 16" OEM wheels don’e clear these TL 4 pot brembos. So I just bought some OZ racing Chrono wheels. Iwish I would’ve spent the cash on a set of TE37 instead since the calipers are still too big for these wheels. I’m planning on shaving the caliper some and adding a 5mm spacer to the front for caliper clearance.
5 lug conversion is not cheap and will cost as much as most DAs out there by the time you price out the entire setup. I have close to $5k in my entire suspension/brakes and wheels/tires. This sort of expense is not uncommon to the high end cars like my MKIV but is overkill to a DA since it won’t appreciate in value. I do plan on selling the car some day and I think the next guys will be very fortunate to get his/her hands on the sale of my DA. I needed a better car for a daily since I have a kid on the way so I purchased an IS350 and I’m loving every bit of it.
Spend your money wisely. I’d rather see you guys upgrading to some limited F1 edition Volk RE30 16X7 4-100 pcd wheels with some Michelin PE2 exalto instead of a mod like this which won’t make any difference.
Is that really the best idea?
I would think equality at all four corners, with far less weight on the rear wheels as opposed to the fronts, would have the potential for serious problems.
Guess I always figured that’s why every racing team I’ve ever had contact with used larger brakes in the front of the car than they did in the rear.
Which courses do you run the car on?
Even cars with a near 50/50 weight distribution don’t use the same size rotors front and rear (like the Mazda RX-8, for example).
Are you going to need to upgrade your master cylinder and proportioning valve to compensate?
Perhaps he has a bias-adjustable prop valve, in which case it would be just fine as long as the front bias was heavier than the rear.
Seriously–Ferrari, Lamborghini, Aston Martin, Bugatti–none of them offer equal-sized brakes on the rear as on the front. Fronts are always bigger, because weight shifts forward (due to momentum) under braking–causing the fronts to have more momentum to dissipate.
I’m really in fear for your safety, carchitect, if you end up streeting this combination.
carchitect exactly how and why did you bend the DC knuckles to work on the DA chassis
Armed Ferret is there a possibility that the rear could lock up is that why you state that you fear for his safety??
more than a possibility, it’s an extremely high likelihood. and the fact they can/will lock isn’t a major concern in and of itself, but if there’s any speed involved and the front brakes DON’T lock up, then there could be some extremely serious ramifications.
aaaaahhhhhhhh its so tempting… :inlove: