Wow. :stare: This is for the track, not street. It is one of my DD’s but I take it out to the track for a little fun. Yeah, I know I’m not gonna be as fast as most, but it’s bracket racing so that really doesn’t matter, consistency owns. I would just like to be in the 15’s. I’ve come to the conclusion that it is partially my driving. I’m wanting to stay away from tthe Nitrous but I’m liking the below idea. My da already has the GSR tranny with a B&M short shifter, but man, when I drive my pops 95 GSR, that thing is so much smoooother. I’ve talked to a few guys and they say when doing the 1/4, when shifting, keep the gas floored. Should I do this? Thanks
[QUOTE=kNOwLedGe420;1681542]Now that I think about it, if I HAD to spend $500, I would buy a CTR intake camshaft (~$250), an ITR intake manifold (~$150), and have your stock throttle body ported (~$100).
That would come out to just about $500, and will be a nice flow increase and throttle response boost.[/QUOTE]
If you don’t let off the gas when shifting, you CAN see gains, at the cost of beating on your clutch and transmission.
There is no chance of damage - you WILL have premature mechanical wear with that technique. Try it once, and see if you get any gains out of it. If your clutch doesn’t grab hulkster hard, then you’re gonna toast your disc first try.
or you can buy pistons, then save up another $600 and buy rods, then save up another $700 and buy cams, then save up another $1000 and buy some valvetrain, then save up another $800 for machine work
after all that (and a lot more), you’ll be making around 200whp (depending on how crazy you go on your parts).
David, I have to agree with you.
200whp out of a b16a is very hard to do on a budget. Unless you are doing all the work yourself and you are able to source reliable and highend parts for a very low cost, I can’t cant see 200whp for the anything less than 3+ grand.
If you have the funds to build such a motor, then you are no longer on a budget. If building such a motor is easy… then a 200whp N/A B16A would be the NORM and it’s not. How many of you guys on this board have a 200whp N/A B16A power DA/DB?
It’s easy to SAY that is easy to extract 200whp out of a N/A B16A.
:werd:
I just looked at the groupbuys forum & a full head rebuild w/ Crower parts is still gonna cost $1000+. That’s w/ a member discount no less. I’m gonna do the build (on my B18a1) next year anyway, but it won’t be cheap; that’s for sure.
DB2: Where’s Coral Springs? You close enough to Tampa to make the meet on June 16? I define “Close enough” as going from Orlando area to Tampa BTW.
:getsome: :manual:
a good friend of mine that i work with and i were talkin about that on the ride home a couple nights ago. We were getting so pumped up about building an all motor b16 that revs like a maniac and putting it in an hf crx.
or you can buy pistons, then save up another $600 and buy rods, then save up another $700 and buy cams, then save up another $1000 and buy some valvetrain, then save up another $800 for machine work
Stock rods are very reliable for a NA 200whp B16, so $600 for rods is out. And the only valvetrain upgrades you need are springs and retainers that don’t run any where near $1000. For that price you can get a fully ported and polished head by Portflow.
And more likely than not, the only machine work needed is a simple hone, $60, if that. Your prices seem to be in yen or something. The cams on the other hand can get pricey.
Watch the Omniman video. Absolutely no bottom end machine work on an old tired 14 year old B16a block. Same stock rods with new bearings $200, OEM pistons $200, and piston rings $100. They spent there money in the head, ported and polished with some nice cams and good tune. 200 whp! And the rings sealed against the old cylinders perfectly pegging the vacuum gauge. No $800 machine work, no $600 rods.
Well, just becuase YOU can’t see it doesn’t mean it isn’t true.
I had a friend that did this on his '00 Civic Si. All that needed to be done to the block was new bearings, CTR pistons and rings, and a block hone. On the head, he got valvesprings, retainers, and JUN Type III camshafts w/ adjustable gears. The car already had a modified throttle body, intake manifold, and header.
This setup, tuned with an archaic V-AFC (this was back in 2001) made 196 whp @ 9,600RPM with NO porting done to the head on 91 octane fuel.
If you really want to nit pick on every word in my comment…then 196whp is not 200whp.
I didn’t say it was impossible to do, I’m pretty sure you read my post and understood it. I applaud your friend for his accomplishments but not too many of us have the kNOwLedGe or funding to build a 200whp B16A power plant for under 3 grand.
Could you provide my with the details of your friends build so I can duplicate it.
I would love to have a 9600 redline motor built for me for under 3000 bucks that would last a 6 months of hard driving… like a ITR/CTR motor.
You know what, I didn’t nitpick on your every word. I believe I posted ONE SENTENCE where you specifically said that you can’t see someone building their B16A to 200whp for under $3,000. Like Sam92Teg and I have said, it’s not difficult. Like he said, Omniman made a DVD on how to do this on a budget.
Now I’m going to nitpick on your every word.
A 200whp B16A is not the norm becuase if someone is going to spend almost $2,000 on their engine, they go the route of more displacement for the same amount of money. Most of the people you know build Hondas for drag racing, right? A 200hp B16A with little torque or low end power is obviously not the best candidate for this.
It’s also easy to SAY that its easy to say it’s easy to extract 200whp out of a B16A, but it’s done more than you think, and there is a DVD made on JUST this subject :roll:
Ha. Nice jab.
JUN Type III camshafts ~$850 new
Supertech valve springs $185 new
Portflow Titanium retainers $140 new
OEM CTR Pistons $165 new
OEM Honda Piston Rings $110 new
OEM Honda rod bearings ~$125?
OEM Honda head gasket ~$50
Block hone ~$75
Add all that up and you have $1,700 in parts. That leaves a whopping $1,300 for engine assembly and tuning, and whatever else you need for the engine to be under $3,000.
Even a n00b could get an engine put together and tuned for $1,300. It doesn’t take kNOwLedGe to do that… :giggle:
How many of us have the skills of Omniman?
Most of us have to pay for those skills. It’s not like we’re installing an intake manifold here.
Most of the people I know in relation to Honda’s are actually engine builders and have very little interest in drag racing them and neither do I. I rather engage a winding back road where I can enjoy a well built, high revving, finely tuned motor and chassis combination.
I’m sure there are quite a few b16a1 powered DA on this board. How many of them are making 200whp? If all it takes is a DVD to do it then there should be a lot, could you imagine if that DVD leaked out on YouTube!!!
Maybe in your neck of the woods it’s common to see 200whp N/A B16’s and I envy you for that…but I’ve only see a handful and they cost more than 3000$$ to build.
Around my neck of the woods, almost everyone is on boots and that’s not restricted to Honda’s. So it might by easy for YOU to say that it’s easy.
Nice list… So your friend’s b16a2 made 196whp with those parts at the cost of $1700 and being an n00b he managed to get the engine assembled and tuned for under 1300 bucks?
I’m assuming that he already had the VAFC. The rest of us would have to get “chipped” or go out and buy a VAFC. I noticed no mention of Valves? How long did the stock valves hold up to the 9600 rpm pulls?
Hey Kyle… I’m know you know your shit and I’m pretty sure that you have access to a wealth of resources and kNOwLedGe , but I’m sure the majority of us, do not.
Hey… not to cut you man… but I gotta hit up Chillies… those south western egg rolls are going to kill my head.
Thanks for the convo.
I know you already mentioned that your buddy’s car already had the intake manifold, TB, and Header, but those things have to be included in the cost of the build. A GOOD intake manifold, tb, and header will cost more than $1000 easily. I’m not talking about shit like blox and DC items. A nice race header that will give you the most gains (Hytech, SMSP, An-R, comptech, tri-Y, ect) will cost you close to $1000 alone. A good TB will cost around $300 and an intake manifold will be around $300 as well. Those are just bolt ons too. Oh, and don’t forget the cost of the motor and tranny!
I’m pretty sure that a fullly and properly done car (not including the suspension) will cost more than $3000.