ok this is gonna sound like an incredibly noob question but is it possible to run a turbo at say maybe 5lbs with stock tuning and just deal with the cel because isnt the stock MAP sensor good for up to 1.4 bars or something 1.4 bar is about 20lbs isnt it or is that refering to vacuum and equal/high preasure on the manifold. please dont hate on me for askin, its just a question because i still have obd0 but plan on upping to obd1 later on and dont want to spend the money on tuning supplies for my ecu when im just gonna update later. just a question thought i would throw it out there to be safe as aposed to just runing it and seriously f-ing up my motor
Damn, you really need to read before posting. there’s a turbo guide at the top that explains alot of that. quit wasting bandwith with BS questions like this. you want to be spoon fed…just go read the turbo guide. that’s about the best answer anyone can give you right now!!! you need help and that’s the only way your going to learn!!!
:search:
ok ok my bad, i reread the turbo guide since its been a while and it now makes a lot of sense, the first time i read it was way back when i first joined g2ic and not much electronics made sense to me. so now i have narowed it down to the “afc hack” but what i dont realy understand is the wiring diagram of the MSD Universal Boost Timing Master. :http://www.msdpower.com/download/5462.pdf which diagram would partain to out cars and what wires off the distributor would be connected to what wires of the btm? sorry about the origional noob question. oh yeah and i already have a check valve siting around, and an apexi neo and a walbro 255 installed
just curious as to why you want to use the AFC hack and a BTM instead of good engine management? if you want to be cheap or should I say get by until you go OBD1 you can run the missing link and a 12:1 FMU…then your done… don’t go above 7 PSi and your good to go. that is in the turbo guide. nothing new that i’m pulling out…it’s all in the guide!!!
:read::read::read::read: like theres no tomorrow…
well as i state earlier, its just a question, and i dont plan on going higher than 5lbs without a good management solution but i dont want to spend money on a good management until i go obd1, i dont want to hear a bunch of negative answers i just wanted to hear good, helpful answers from people that have experienced these things, a guide is just that, a guide, it can only “guide” you in a certain directionnot experience things and learn from them, i would rather ask a question to someone that knows what they are doing and has experience in it than follow a guide and accidentaly miss something causing an non-wanted effect. why would i want a 12:1 regulator when it also states in the guide that its very easy to blow an injector and ruin your motor, see this is where the experience part comes into play, have you ever gone this route? do you know the things that could go south with this option? if so please state them and give me some advise instead of wasting the bandwidth you worry about with negative comments on how i need to read a “guide”
Why not just tune it on turboedit or if you have a first gen b16 BRE those are good up to about 325whp.
well see like i said, i dont wanna spend money on anything for obd0 because i will be going obd1 sometime before summer.
in all honesty, I wouldnt turbo a car unless I was going to do it right. Don’t be surprised if that motor blows. do some reading and tune it using turboedit as stated, or be patient and save up for the obd1 upgrade.
I’ve used the Vortech FMU. yeah there right, in the guide about locking a injector. you put too much pressure on injectors and that’s bound to happen. I would only use that for 5-7 PSi. It was fine for me, but I only used that method for 2 months then switched to Uberdata, now using Cromepro!!! I also used the Synapse map bypass link. the only problem with these band aids is just that, there band aids and a real engine management system addresses issues of timing retard, advanced fuel tables and such. if your going to do it then do it right and be done with it, otherwise you can see yourself running in circles to just end up with what you should of had to begin with. just my .02
ok just a question, is it posible to use the check valve thing that comes stock on the little vacuum pod thing mounted on the intake manifold , the little black thing with an arrow on it, as a valve for the map sensor, jw, just wanted to know if it was posible or not
i hate to thread jack, but i’m wondering things along the same line…
first off i have read and read and read the turbo guide so i have 2 little questions,
could i use…
-a vortech fmu(12:1),
-larger injectors(390,450) w/ resistor box(my car is obd1 
),
-check valve,
-walbro 255 fuel pump (already installed),
-retard the timing at the distributor and be good on the stock ecu for about 6psi with no worries of it leaning out and blowing up?
in the turbo guide they had slight variations to this as what to use so i’m just double checking this setup.
or…if there is anyone in the sw ohio area who can chip and tune my obd1 ecu and make me feel better about everything, the local import shops here charge MASS amounts for this
this is going to end badly…
tuning is the most essential part to boosting. please research some more, your motor will thank you…
http://forum.pgmfi.org/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=3073
Try that link for a tuner in your area should be the first one
ok dont laugh but does anyone know of a tuner near southeast idaho?
Check the forum I posted above
I ran 6psi on stock ecu, missing link, and FMU 10:1 vortec, ran great, little rich, but still getting about 600km on a tank on highway and 400Km in city. Im going crome next year with 12psi and 450cc DSM’s. and a new engine…she just rolled over 320,000 so she’s getting tired…:dozing:
Not the best…but works good. and fun. just made sure to use proper clamps with 400psi fuel hose…little to much, but better more then less.
My two cents…