91 GS sluggish build

Hey guys, so i’ve had my 1991 GS for i don’t know how long. Picked it up my senior year in High school for 1400$. One owner manual gearbox, 120.xxx miles. Radiator was leaking. So i swapped it out. Come to find out that the leaking radiator became a Failed head gasket. So i replaced the head gasket and installed some ARP head studs. That was 3 years ago probably. Ended up removing A/C here and there. Finally removed the compressor this spring. Put in a new Alternator. And Just recently started removing ABS. I Removed all my ABS components. Replaced my Master cylinder, got an RS proportioning valve, and began running new lines. Did a four wheel brake job, found my LF caliper seized ( no wonder it was so hard to push around the shop doing my H/G, i knew integras were “heavy” compared to my 00 CX hatch, but didn’t think they were that heavy lol) So I bit the bullet and purchased the wilwood DPHA 4 piston bolt on front brake kit. Waiting for Russell Stainless braided flex hoses and possibly new wheels before I install them.

When i first picked it up

I dont know what im doing here, but my Girlfriend at the time’s dad, doing my body work

your stereotypical honda comparison

did the 92-93 front bumper swap, Yellow fog lens decal tint and bulbs. (still need to find a H emblem that fits , any help would be nice as to what fits , hard luck finding and XSI one )

ABS Parts where they belong

Wrinkle painted my Intake Manifold and TB , looks so much nicer than the faded and blotchy factory color

Shaping new brake lines for my ABS delete, so far the rear MC to Prop valve is run, few more to go

Prelude 4WS steering wheel swap ( i have the Round emblem Steering wheel as well , that i like a little better, but i would like to put a Gen 3 NON SRS type R wheel on instead )

My new 4Piston DPHA bolt on calipers.

Just kinda hanging out, I did do a battery relocation to the trunk but then it didnt start after the first run cycle, i think it was the wiring, regardless, i think im gonna buy the Odyssey slim battery , and make a bracket to mount where the abs accumulator went (PWJDM sells one but i dont think that price is really worth it, IMO)

I love the interior on Gen 2s , Probably going to replace the shifter with a Fastline , or K-tuned, Not sure yet, would like to get more opinions. And probably going to mount a double din radio in as well, something with Bluetooth, my 350z Has a kenwood one that i love. Also waiting on Oil temperature and Oil Pressure gauges to come in, will be mounting them on my A pillar.

More to come soon, im hopefully going to be getting the Koni/GC coilovers, and looking at wheel options right now. But the weather is alot nicer which will up my motivation to do more work to this thing, i plan to get it on the road this summer.
My 92-93 Bumper does not have the lower lip valance so i am on the market for one, i like the JDP style one, and im Dying to get my hands on some One Pieces headlamp assemblies. I would like to keep the exterior pretty simple though

Little Interior shot, In search of a new drivers side seat (Mine is ripped) and the little coin holder flip out tray that is missing where driver’s left knee would be,

New Master cylinder and messy engine bay with everything apart

RS prop valve and in progress brake line routing.

To anyone that has deleted or looped power steering, What are your thoughts? My 2000 CX has manual rack, and its just fine for me but if i removed the pump i would just probably loop the lines…

ugly roller wheels with junk tires please excuse the looks ahah

so rad man. what size wheels are you going to run with those calipers? I might end up looking into a setup like that once I get my bay all situated and what not

Wilwood claims they will clear the stock EM1 SI wheel which is 15x6.5 something close to a ET40 offset , correct me if im wrong. Im looking into running a 15x8 ET20 or ET25 wheel.

So nice seeing a non brown/yellow master cylinder reservoir. Finished running the MC to Prop Lines. Prop to RF , LF and the Short ones from Prop to the union for rear are left. It’s not perfect and not tucked by any means but for my first time running lines, i think i did alright.

That’s sick man. I have a 93 ls with no abs and I’m planning on re-running lines. That looKS pretty good for your first time. Did you use a tubing bender?

Yeah I used a blue point bending tool, along with the blue point brake flaring kit. I got the nickel copper lines, I believe that’s what they’re called. Almost double the price of the greenish black steel ones, but these are said to be more corrosion resistant and they bend way more easier

yeah I see guys use this stuff at my job all the time. I think I’m gonna go that route instead of the double wall steel tubing but it looks good boss

yeah it is much more forgiving with bends. pay a little more to make life easier, cant got wrong with that. I also ordered a traction bar today so when the time comes for a single piece header , i wont have the crossmember issue.

oh yeah man I probably will be getting one eventually. which one did you get? I’m going turbo so I might get one once I figure out my downpipe setup I might go 2.5" down past the cross member and let it feed into like a 3". as weird as it may sound I like your vans .

Thanks haha, I got them a few years back , I liked how they resembled timberlands almost. And I ended up getting the Ktuned/ETD one from Xenocron. I typically buy all my parts from JHPUSA but the Xenocron one was a fair amount cheaper and I have heard a lot of good things about their service. Im keeping the stock B18 in it for now, so I’m gonna be doing research for the best header setup after I get the traction bar in, and my brake kit/ wheels situated

that’s awesoe man. I’ve heard great thinks about those k tuned trac bars. i’m in for the updates

My oil pressure and oil temperature gauges came in today, I’ll most likely be posting some install pictures within the next day or so!

Did the ABS system work? Still have the ABS parts?

Yes I still have the module (or whatever you call the main unit that is bolted to the passenger side strut mount) , the accumulator and pump. Most of , if not all of the lines are intact as I am using a few as reference for my new lines. I removed most of the wiring that I could , it did work when I last had the car on the road 2 and a half years ago with temp tags for 2 weeks, no abs light was on and besides my stuck LF caliper the braking system appeared to have no issues. I have not removed the wheel speed sensors , or the abs electronic module that is behind the RF door

Partially installed my Oil temp, and oil pressure gauges last night ( pardon the pictures due to it starting to get dark out) . I wired them in , with the exception of the two wires from the gauges , to the oil pressure sensor, and oil temp sensor, which will be on an oil sandwich adapter, i think this afternoon i am going to complete the install of the oil sandwich adapter and the two sensors.

right now i do have my intake manifold, off and other components off , while doing my abs delete, so i didnt get the chance to get a KOEO reference with the gauges installed.

The pod comes with mounting screws, and little black caps to cover the silver machined finish of the screw, which i thought was pretty neat.

and check out what the Snap-On Guy is raffling off this month, Your choice to take this home , its a fully functioning AR, Take your choice of 1200$ in tools, or 1000$ cash. I know i’d take the cash.

Mounted my sandwich plate today

Oil Pressure sensor would not clear the coolant pipe, found that out the hard way. Ordered a 45 degree adapter to offset the sensor, hopefully that works.

Temperature gauge went in just fine. mocked up the wiring for the sensors as well

mocked up what the painted intake manifold will look like when or if my car ever goes back together hahaha

also wanted to check out what my strut bar looks like

I had to run braided AN line to get my pressure sensor clearance. What strut bar is that? I want one!

It’s the Password JDM 3pt strut bar. its available in black and bronze as well

here’s the link

http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-3-Point-Front-Strut-Tower-Bar-90-93-Integra-Black-Edition-P7599C1517.aspx

Installed my Wilwood 4 Piston bolt on caliper kit today. Everything came off nicely. I am waiting for my Russell front brake hoses to come in later this week. These calipers utilize factory caliper mounting position, as well as stock rotor diameter.

And they clear a 15x7 ET38 wheel, kind of a relief that i can put more $ towards the Koni/GC setup, considering i found my RF coil spring cracked when i was under there.