Okay so status update is today, after a full day. We got the B16 pulled out of my car. Seperated it from my S1 tranny with the 3rd gear grinds. My clutch is near-new condition and it fits on the new tranny I purchased so perfect.
Tomorrow brings the prepping of the B20B and the new tranny and cleaning up the engine bay a bit. Then hopefully Monday everything will go back in.
Problems so far…
The driver’s side lower ball joint threads got molested when we were taking it apart. So we’re going to re-tap them.
I accidentally broke the vacuum line nipple off that goes from the B20B valve cover to the air intake. Its a fair size hose… Right now we tried to put it back on with contact cement, hopefully it works… if theres a better way of doing this please let me know ASAP.
Only question I have left is what the hell is all this stuff about the thermosister switch mod that needs to be done. I keep searching and searching but I can’t find a clear answer. That B20 swap guide he says its in his pictures but his pictures can no longer be viewed
Oh and my buddy gave me his throttle body off his blown LS engine, because I need to swap the TPS. But the TPS is riveted on this throttle body, does that mean its OBD-0? The TPS on my B16 is screwed onto the throttle body and I know its OBD-1…
with my TPS i just took a small hacksaw and cut little slits into the rivet, then unscrewed it with a screwdriver. i don’t know why the JDM motors have removable screws and ours dont…
just be sure to get a voltmeter and set it properly!
k guys i’m swapping everything over and getting the b20 ready now. I STILL don’t know what the hell this thermosister switch mod bullshit is, someone please explain.
after doing a little more research it looks like i wont’ have to do this mod because the thermosister switch on my b16 is already at the thermostat cover. where as if i was doing a b18 to b20 swap it would be on the back of the block and i’d have to extend the plug? is this correct or am i way off? my rad fan wasn’t working properly with my b16 anyways, it wouldn’t come on automatically on its own, i was still hunting the problem before i blew the engine, its bad wiring somewhere… because i’ve tested everything else (fuses, relay, grounds, jumping the switch, jumping the relay… yada yada) so i was just going to put a freakin switch in my dash to turn the fan on and off i guess i might as well do that.
NEW PROBLEM!
when pulling out the b16 we chipped my pulling on the outermost ring, where the power steering belt goes. also since i still haven’t found a non-vtec power steering pump bracket i was thinking about just removing it. at least for now. i’ve done a lot of searching on here, and there is no way in hell i’m spending the time and money to loop the lines and all that shit. right now the belt and pump are removed is there anything i can do with that big honking hose and just leave it at that? if not i guess i’ll just get my hands on a new pulley and that bracket because thats way easier then looping and all that other bs and it costs about the same…
since i have newly aquired a b16 with a s1 short geared transmission, id say keep the b16, the b16 is too much fun to back down to a non vtec, if all you guys want is torque why not just go with cars that make torque? i think having a fun engine is better and keeping a b16 would do that. But, each to its own i guess! enjoy whatever you get
looping the lines on your PS isn’t costly nor does it take alot of time, I did mine two days ago and it didn’t cost me a thing, just reuse some of the hoses that are part of the power steering system. If you want to keep it all, you could buy my bracket since I wont be using it anymore. LMK
that happened to me when i was putting my b16 in. the pulley hit and chipped off about 1/4 of the lip on the outside ring. then after doing a couple clutches over the years and letting the motor sag down, it chipped off a bit more. there’s probably 1/3 of the lip chipped off but it still worked fine when i had power steering. just put the belt on once you get it running and see if it pops off… i was really worried about mine, but nothing happened.
its not good to use a crank pulley thats chipped or cracked, it can result in excessive bearing wear and premature engine failure because the pulley is harmonically balanced so once its chipped the balance is thrown off.
oh yeah, i also chipped mine when pulling the engine next time I’ll pull that off before the engine comes out :giggle:
i kept that in mind as well… but just the little outer lip like on mine being chipped, i figued it wouldn’t make much of a difference since all the weight is closer to the butt end of the pulley and also where it’s balanced. i have an extra at home, i suppose i should put that on haha. or i could just shave off the rest of that lip to make it round again…?
thanks for the heads up though. hope the 75K i’ve put on that motor with the chipped pulley hasn’t done any damage yet!!!
Electrical, Coolant, and Vaccuum lines connections
Okay so I’m coming down to the final stages of the swap now and I’m having a few problems with the electrical and coolant hose connections. First off we’ll start with the electrical.
We are using my fuel rail from my B16A, along with the entire engine wiring harness that was on my B16A. Now my B16A is a 1st gen, but it was running OBD-1 for sure, gray distributor plugs, JDM OBD-1 P08 ECU, I checked my engine codes with the check engine light not with a blinking LED. So there we have that established for sure. My car is a 92 GS. So anyways we’re hooking up my engine wiring harness onto my JDM B20B and there is 3 connectors that we have NO IDEA where they go. Every other connector on the wiring harness we have found and know exactly where they go. In the picture I uploaded I’ve circled the 3 connectors that we don’t know where they go. Someone please shed some light on this.
Now for the coolant lines stuff. Okay so far I haven’t swapped over anything coolant related from my B16A or from a regular LS engine. I read that the thermostat housing had to be swapped over, so I had my buddy bring me the thermostat housing from his LS motor but he only brought the like top cover piece not the entire housing so when i went to swap it i was like whats the point? They’re exactly the same. Do I need to swap the actual housing, like the entire thing that holds the thermostat? and if so can I use my B16A thermostat housing or no? because on the B20B and the LS the ECT switch seems to be on the thermostat housing cover. and on the B16A it is not. Also any other information regarding the coolant lines would be very helpful. I’m guessing that the line coming out of the bottom of the throttle body of the B20B low rise intake manifold/throttle body setup goes to the other slot on the IACV. But then where do i get the coolant line for the FITV from?
Oh just to clear some things up.
I’m using
JDM B20B head, block, intake manifold, throttle body
JDM B16A fuel rail
the wiring harness I’m guessing is from the LS that originally came with the car because its OBD-1 and the B16A i have is 1st gen and the VTEC wiring is totally seperate from the engine harness
B16A alternator
I’m no longer swapping off the B20B pulley, i’m going to remove my power steering and just get a bit bigger belt so that it’ll work with the B20 pulley and my B16 alternator
JDM S1 transmission
okay so its in and running now. but we have some problems, we smell gas from the exhaust so it looks like its running rich. and its throwing code 26 which i can’t find what that is anywhere! wtf?
okay in the picture above what is sensor number 2, and why doesn’t my wiring harness have a plug for it? does it matter that i don’t have it hooked up/?
heres the situation right now. My B20B is in the bay and its all wired up but when i start it it rumbles and dies. the weird thing is that we did have it running before, it wasn’t running good because the vacuum lines weren’t hooked up properly yet but it was running. then i took it out to go to the parts store and it died while i was driving and wouldn’t start up again. and as i said before right now i try to start it and it’ll start up and just rumble and die.
i have the number 2 sensor from the first picture hooked up. but the sensor on the thermostat housing is currently not plugged in, because my wiring harness doesn’t have a plug for it. my ECU was throwing a code 6 which is why i moved the plug from the thermostat housing to the black plug on the B20B block (sensor 2 in first picture) and now my ECU isn’t throwing code 6 anymore.
its currently only throwing code 20 which is ELD apparently, but from what i’ve been reading that wouldn’t stop it from running so i don’t know why it won’t run properly.
in the picture in this post is the side of my b16 which when the b16 was in my car both sensors i labeled were plugged in, but the green plug was plugged in by my VTEC wiring harness dealy.
i’m at a loss right now honestly because the B20B is in and everything and it WAS running but now i can’t even get it to start and stay on.
Good luck with the car. I have a 90 da with a b20b with a b16 tranny. The tranny has a LS 5th gear, so it will save on gas on the freeways. Best thing anyone could do with the gas prices today, you should think about doing that… I have another b20 (b20’s are so cheap), but it’s being built for a b20vtec-t and when thats ready to go in, i’ll have all the same problems your having. You might as well help all future b20 swapers and write the NEW B20 install guide for us, because it so fresh in your head.
Note: I could build the damn motors, but it’s such a bitch getting them wired up write.
sometimes i manage to get it started but then as soon as i try to rev it it will die and make all these weird clicking noises from the dash, its obvious in the video. and i’ve already tried 3 different distributors. i’ve already put new plugs in it, the firing order is correct don’t worry i know what i’m doing but i can’t figure this out. help please, could a bad main fuel relay be causing this crap?
it wont be the main fuel relay if you can get it started, all the relay does is turn the fuel pump on, if the car starts then the relay is doing its job turning the pump on.
