a/c r13-r134

since my a/c has been out for over 2 summers now, I was wanting to spend a good chunk of change and bring her back to life. I’ll definately be using r134 refrigerant this time, and I’m more than likely going to get a new compressor, evaporator, and whatever pipes show cause to be leaking. I’m wondering if I know I’m gonna use r134 should I buy a compressor and evaporator for a newer integra that was made to use r134? What year did the change occur for new integras? If it started after 93 will g3 a/c parts fit correctly in a g2 w/o modification(I know the pipes are diff but the compressor and evaporator) Has anyone ventured into this or done any research on the best thing to do in this situation? Thanks guys-:smiley:

Just for clarification it’s R-12. Also, federal law required all vehicles starting with the 1994 model year to use R-134a. I’m not sure if the G3 compressor will bolt to our blocks or not since they use a special bracket. I’ve just started looking into this since I’m in the same situation.

Just for clarification it’s R-12

thanks- it’s been a long day already- and I kinda pride myself in stuff like that:tsk: oh well what can i say-

My buddy just did a conversion on his older gen. bmw and I don’t lilke it at all. I find the R-12 A/C are colder, we even measured the temperature before and after.

My car was just changed two weeks ago with the r134 and my car gets like an icebox inside . My ac was busted for like 3 years , the guy found a leak in the condenser which was a $230 part so i went to www.cliplight.com and got a sealent called superseal pro and it sealed the leak and stays in the system to prevent future leakes . Great stuff imo saved me alot of $ . $230 vs $34 .

You can recharge your CURRENT system using products from http://autorefrigerants.com/co00033.htm
Get the R-12a recharge pack, located at the bottom (about $40/pack). It has everything you need to charge and leak-proof your system. I’ve talked o many people using this and it is colder, more efficient, and safer than R-12 or R-134. Also, saves HUGE amounts of money over converting to R-134 (about a $1000 job!!).
Go for it. I’m about to use it in my car next week when I overhaul the A/C system (compressor seized and evaporator busted – got a whole replacement system, used, for $75!! :slight_smile: )

Anyhow, give it a shot. Wotrh the small price!

~Eric

I am glad I found this post! I was thinking about converting to R134 but I will try this product first. I hope it works for me!

I got my replacement refridgerant in the mail today. Gonna try it either tonigh tor tomorrow to see what it’s like. I’ll definately let ya know.

Ok, a little OT here, but if someone doesnt mind, could you give a brief how-to on the recharging process? Like, what goes where etc?

Also, is that Enviro-Safe kit the same as the ones you get at the local auto parts store? I’ve seen some R12 to R134a conversion kits, do those work?

TIA

If any one is looking for A/C parts I just pulled my entire working system off and it’s just taking up space I don’t have. msasso@interchange.ubc.ca

So what the difference between R12 and R12a, i thought R12 was bad for the ozone so that why they have this safe gas called
R134. When i seen a link that had R12a for sale, is that the same R12 that is bad for the air. The reason why i ask these questions is that my a/c freon is low and i want to recharged my system.

B18A93
G2IC

i’m curious on this r12a also as i’ve been out of freon for quite some time and the summer muggy weather is just not my cake… i need ac again…

curls keep us posted on how that goes

R12 actually is 7% cooler/more efficient than r134. So if you can, find the leak, fix it and use R12. Mine was leaking and it was a simple bad O-ring. R134 has smaller molecules than r12 so if you use it in a R12 system it will leak easier or new leaks will occur. You have to change a few components inorder to use r134 effectively in a previous R12 system.

Okay I have been doing some research. From what I can tell I would recommend to avoid converting the system to R134a. This is nothing against those who have already done it and had success. Those of you who haven’t converted should try the R12 substitute instead (cheaper) www.autorefrigerants.com and then try and stop your leak on your old R12 system.

Originally posted by RougeDude
Okay I have been doing some research. From what I can tell I would recommend to avoid converting the system to R134a. This is nothing against those who have already done it and had success. Those of you who haven’t converted should try the R12 substitute instead (cheaper) www.autorefrigerants.com and then try and stop your leak on your old R12 system.

Why do you say we should avoid the conversion? What kinda problems can we expect?

Have you used that R12 recharge kit from that site?

Just looking through previous A/C posts (use search) and talking with people they say not to go the R134 conversion route. I guess the system won’t last very long because the R12 interacts with the R134 or something. DuPont doesn’t sell the R134 retrofit kit either so that is an indication. I haven’t tried the product yet but I am going to and ~Eric on here is trying it as we speak and should have feedback soon on that!

I tried last night, but I ****ed up and forgot I disabled my compressor, so I wasted a can of Leak Sealer. Anyhow, looks like it’ll be easy enough to do, once I find the time to actually get under the hood again and reconnect the compressor. The cans are easy to use and connect via the adapters and hose.

Looks like this stuff will work fine.

I will not be able to give an update until the end of June, because I’m leaving town for a few weeks, starting Friday. If I do get a chance to fiddle w/ the compressor this week (doubtful), I’ll keep you posted. But, for now, I’d say that this stuff will work fine as long as your A/C system has no leaks in the evaporator and/or compressor. The Leak-Sealer stuff is supposed to work on o-rings, threads, and small cracks in the hoses – but NOT on compressor and evaporator holes.

anyhow, hope this helps. Anyone else interested on an update, e-mail me in a week or two and I’ll get back to you w/ the results.
curls.00@rogers.com

~Eric

I’m telling you guys first check the O-rings. The O-ring from my compressor to the AC line was bad. A little 25 cent part cost me $130 in R12.

HONDAF1: Did you use regular plumbing-section O-rings, or the special “A/C system O-rings”?

If you used the regular plumbing ones, how did they hold up over time?

~Eric

Originally posted by joeygill
[B]

Why do you say we should avoid the conversion? What kinda problems can we expect?

Have you used that R12 recharge kit from that site? [/B]

I am using the envirosafe es-12, I have had it almost 1 year now, it was a direct drop in, the only thing I converted was to install r-134 fittings (because the es-12 can uses an r-134 can tap and charging hose). It is still cold and had not leaked out for the most part. I put in 1.5 cans last year and about 3/4 can this spring to get things in shape for summer.