I just got around to installing some 440’s and the 15$ afc hack. My question is: The job of the hack is to be able to adjust the 5 volt to the ecu. (right?) But when the ecu sees less than 5 it throws a map code, and I am getting a Oxygen content code too.
I am running about 27psi of fuel pressure, with an inline pump that comes with the drag kit. My A/F ratio is between lean and stoch. But It blows black smoke like a mother.
Has anyone had this problem? What shouid I do to fix?
There is two screws on there to adjust, I am not sure which is which…help…
Hey man, I want to come check out your setup sometime…
I’m in akron, and there’s a drag 3 kit at my house with “spring weather” written all over it…
I want to see how you put all that crap in, since the guy that I bought this from didn’t bother sending me directions…
Are you planning on getting it tuned anywhere?
I don’t know of any places around here that are experienced with turbo’d hondas… but I suppose there probably are some.
you shouldnt have bought the circuit board if you dont kno what the hell you’re doing. You obviouslly know nothing of the hack if you lowered your fuel pressure to 27psi and bought an inline pump.buy a real afc, its for newbs like you…
btw, the top-most screw is the idle control, bottom is non-idle ajustment.
Please do me a favor:
“Go back under your bridge unless ur gonna post something constructive”
note - that is a quote…Ya, its yours so why dont you do it. [/B]
Haha, Whats so funny, I installed mine properly and I didnt lower my fuel pressure like a tard. I knew how the afc hack worked, I was just askign for tuning tips :squint:
I just got around to installing some 440’s and the 15$ afc hack. My question is: The job of the hack is to be able to adjust the 5 volt to the ecu. (right?) But when the ecu sees less than 5 it throws a map code, and I am getting a Oxygen content code too.
I read that post and your hack is a bit different than mine. correct me if I am wrong; your hack regulated the voltage going into the map, mine regulated the voltage comming out of the map. Yours have one adjustment (I like that better) and mine has 2 one for idle and the other for wot.
I am having the problem tuning them both. Idle will be lean and the wot will be rich and as soon as I adj something it fucks everything up.
I really dont like the fact that mine has 2 settings and one output. I could see if one was the main and the other was just for fine tunning, but it seems not to be that way.
I set my Fuel press to about 35with the hose on, and I replaced the insert in the AEM fpr to the middle one there was the bigger one in there.
What kinda voltage should I be getting with the car running at Idle? Will it make a difference, because I took out the computer vacume purge selenoid that runs inline with the vacume line going to the fpr?(now I just have a straight vacume line from the intake to the fpr) Have you had any experience with this hack? http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37835&highlight=cheap+fuel+management
thanks
Originally posted by ntroie40
[B]I read that post and your hack is a bit different than mine. correct me if I am wrong; your hack regulated the voltage going into the map, mine regulated the voltage comming out of the map. Yours have one adjustment (I like that better) and mine has 2 one for idle and the other for wot.
I am having the problem tuning them both. Idle will be lean and the wot will be rich and as soon as I adj something it fucks everything up.
I really dont like the fact that mine has 2 settings and one output. I could see if one was the main and the other was just for fine tunning, but it seems not to be that way.
I set my Fuel press to about 35with the hose on, and I replaced the insert in the AEM fpr to the middle one there was the bigger one in there.
What kinda voltage should I be getting with the car running at Idle? Will it make a difference, because I took out the computer vacume purge selenoid that runs inline with the vacume line going to the fpr?(now I just have a straight vacume line from the intake to the fpr) Have you had any experience with this hack? http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=37835&highlight=cheap+fuel+management
thanks [/B]
Look at the last reply in that thread… i was using his hack. This hack changes the MAP OUTPUT, not reference signal…
Chris/filetofit has had great results with his setup. There are about a half dozen people I know running it successfully, and it isn’t like I’ve tried to stalk him or his setup… it’s just out there.
Lean at idle and rich at WOT sounds like filetofit’s circuit has been miswired on the power in side of the MAP instead of the signal out side. A voltage divider will change it’s output if the load is variable like a MAP sensor… his setup is for the signal output only.
Could you verify exactly how/where you have these circuits wired?
I know I have it hooked up rught I checked it about 10 times hoping it would be. I got it adjusted ok now, but one day it will be fine and the next runs like shit. The weather is the same too.
Check out this post I posted on HT http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?&id=441698&postid=4620543#4620543
any other thing I should try.
when I set the wot at 1.8 at ing2 and the idle turned all the way in till it clicks it will not start. I have to turn the idle out about 4 or 5 turns before I can get it to start. Then at wot it bogs for a few seconds then takes off. I think my wot voltage is about 1.9+ it is not drivable with anyother. I am going to try to lower my fuel pressure ( I raised it a bit) and lower the voltage just trying any thing. I also installed the middle size fitting in the AEM fpr with that do anything?
thanks
Uhm, do you have a lazy O2 sensor and problems going into and out of closed loop? A friend’s Civic was acting wierd like that on this setup, he had some funky ground issues associated from relocating his battery.
I got it running good (I thought). For instance: I was on my way to my friends house for his going away party (ARMY) on friday. I stoped at the gas station, pumped my gas and when I went to start the thing up it would not. After adjusting the Idle controler clockwise a few turns it would start. The hole time I was getting a code 43. So I go on my trip, driving the car everyday with somewhat no problem ( it was running a bit rich with a code 43) and then today again I shut if off and it will not start back up again… I adjusted the Idle and it started. Runs a bit ruff but I cant figure out whats going on!
Take a look at Chris’ circuit - I suspect you might possibly have a bad solder joint - hit each one with an iron and reflow them to ensure good connections. That might help with idle/startup/rough running problems.
As for the code 43… I got that shit all the time when I was regular AFC hack, but once I ditched the 90-91 PR4 code for PM6 code with PR4 maps it went away. I’ve clocked about 8K miles with no codes so far. It’s just one case, and a lot of the work I did over the time I’ve owned the car could have shored up some halfassed grounds… so I really can’t say that it’s possible ECU/code based.
I’m throwing out some oddball but valid ideas here… hope they help.
