I got a call from Dave @ RS on Monday, he found another customer who was sleeving their block and was willing to trade blocks with me (plus cash on my side). Super good deal for that dude that traded with me, still feel like I’m getting ripped off but it was definitely the cheapest of my options, plus I’ve been looking for a block for 5 weeks now with virtually no luck. Hoping to get the head and block back from the machine shop this weekend then I need to assemble the long block. Still have a bunch of other engine bay things to finish up before that though, it’s still completely bare.
I bet it was a good deal. To the other guy it was pretty much free cash that he wasn’t expecting to get. His block was getting new sleeves so it didn’t matter if the old ones were good or not. Kind of sucks for you since you had to pay extra, would of been a lot nicer to find “someone” to be nice enough to do a straight trade.
Yeah, the first guy that was willing to trade wanted $250, I thought that was ridiculous. I countered with $150 which I thought was still more than fair - cause like you said it was free money for him. He declined the deal. After that I spent 5 weeks scouring the corners of the internet for a decent b18c block. So many shady people out there, over priced blocks, and stuff that’d already been rebuilt and bored over, or had damage that was questionable as to whether you could repair it or not. The dude I’m trading with now wants $200, which again I think is ridiculous, but at this point it’s worth it to me so that I can just move forward.
that is ridiculous asking price. $250? smh. I guess $200 was the only way to get out of this trouble with your old block. Buying a good bare bock for that price wasn’t goingto happen since most of the blocks out there have some type of damage done to them. Only blocks that might not have any mechanical issues are probable going to be stolen motors which isn’t good to own specially here in CA.
Use it as a learning experience. I bought a b17 long block that had a drop valve on piston #3. Head was trash and one of the pistons was also damage. I thought the cylinder walls could get bored out to the next size , but after honing to 81.50mm and measuring the damage cylinder, I don’t see it getting repair. Im going to simply get the block sleeved. What seem to be a good $250 deal for the long block turned out to be a pile of aluminum and steal.
I feel your pain! I’m still bummed my b17a blew in the first place, it was such a great motor, I liked to call it my “Mini Type R”.
The one I have had been previously rebuild with CTR pistons. im assuming the previous owner thought he had a rocket machine and over revv it with stock valve train and got P2V contact and destroyed the motor. Now my plans are to simple get the motor sleeved and go turbo. Looking for 350-400whp.
Picked up a Skunk2 shift knob on Tuesday. A friend saw my post and offer me a circuit hero knob at a good price so I picked it up on yesterday. Now Im having a hard time to make my selection on which one to use. lol I like the way the circuit hero looks, but i like the grip feel the skunk2 offers. I will try out the circuit hero on the weekend and see if I can get used to it.
I definitely like the look of the Circuit Hero more. I don’t have anything against Skunk2 products except that they’re so heavily branded, other than that a lot of their stuff I really like.
I like the circuit hero more too just based on the looks. I’ve had skunk 2, blox, OEM ITR, spoon (duracon and aluminum), several OEM knobs and my current favorite a greddy trust weighted knob. When it comes to something you touch EVERY shift it just has to be comfortable. Although I like the look of the circuit hero, I think the skunk 2 might be more comfortable from a driver standpoint.
Nice work on those valve covers! They all look amazing!
Nice build!
[QUOTE=rollinmyda;2306156]I like the circuit hero more too just based on the looks. I’ve had skunk 2, blox, OEM ITR, spoon (duracon and aluminum), several OEM knobs and my current favorite a greddy trust weighted knob. When it comes to something you touch EVERY shift it just has to be comfortable. Although I like the look of the circuit hero, I think the skunk 2 might be more comfortable from a driver standpoint.
Nice work on those valve covers! They all look amazing![/QUOTE]
Thanks guys. I drove the car with the Circuit Hero knob and I was surprised how it felt. I thought it was going to be in someway uncomfortable since it was just a round ball, but it sure wasn’t. Ill probably leave it on for a few more days of driving and see how it works.
Thanks man.
Bought the rear speaker delete pods from TegFan and received them yesterday. Will need to clean them up and restore them to look like “new” condition.
Another quick update. I purchase a greddy catback exhaust from iogearz which was in terrible condition, but it look like it could be restored. For the $40 that it was advertise I figure, if it didn’t work I wasn’t going to loose much. So I picked up the exhaust yesterday and startedto work on it. After almost an hour of cleaning I managed to get most of the oxidation, paint, and dirt of the canister. Im still not finish as I need to clean the tight areas and polish the canister using Mother’s cream. I don’t care about the B-pipe nor the aftermarket resonator since I will be using my RS*R piping or I might just wait and get the whole piping mandrel made for t his exhaust.
BEFORE:
AFTER
Will need to clean this area again and try to get rid of the oxidation.
Holy crap, how did you do that? Nice job!
I have a mixed spray bottle that I made and cleans a lot of things. Awesome,Fabuloso,simple green, and purple power. I fill 25% of each cleaner on to my spare bottle and spray it on the item that im going to clean. Scrub with a sponge or brush and rinse with water. Repeat the steps if needed.
Damn, that thing cleaned up amazingly!
Damn! Great work!
Wow! Maybe I should have kept it… HAHA! You did an amazing job cleaning it up. But obviously I didn’t care too much for it. Great meeting you Jose! I recognized your name and I saw this thread before but didn’t put the two together til now. Remember you mentioned the RSR dual tips for $100~? There was mugen ones for $300 on ebay. Ridiculous!
Thanks
Nice meeting you Peter. Yea the muffler was really dirty. I didn’t expect for it to clean up that good. My first idea was to clean as much as I could and spray high temperature black paint. Now the black paint is out the door.
On the other hand, I took the muffler to a muffler shop to get the “dual” exhaust crap removed and weld a plate to cover the hole. Will get pictures later on tonight. For some reason the piping looks smaller than my RSR catback. Will take measurements and hopefully its 2.25 inch.
Finally installed the speaker delete pods.
I measure the greddy catback I recently purchase and it turned out to be a 2" piping. Can anyone chime in and confirm that greddy made a 2" catback vor the 90-93 integra? I had the idea that it would be 2.25" piping. I cant used 2" piping on my car so I will most likely put this exhaust for sale after I finish cleaning it up.