how tight do i tighten them into the block?
another question, on the main caps the arrows point toward the harmonic balancer right?
and the #1 cap is closest to the harmonic balancer and counts up going toward the flywheel, or is it the other way around?
clean the threads int eh block with brake clean, make sure they are clean!
put oil on stud and insert into block, tighten till they stop, then back off a hair( dont want any pressure on threads)
yes
5-4-3-2-1-crank pulley
thanks
hand tight on the main studs and head studs does not seem right.
it just gives me a bad feeling.
then i torque the nuts to 80 ft. pounds on the main studs and 85 on the head studs does not seem right either.
but thats what the directions say sooooo.:shrug:
well… turn them down till they stop, then barley back them off… you dont want the thread to be bottomed out.
not that hard.
what thread size is the main bolt?
i think m11x1.50 but im not sure.
i have these in my built block. just so you know, due to the huge increase in main stud tq you need a line bore. the main caps twist under the large tq pressures and will need to be rehoned in order to properly fit in new main bearings and not spin the bearings. it does say this in the arp instructions and golden eagle made sure they line honed my block
what is a line hone?
what are you talking about?
i hate this.
i plasti gauged my main bearings and the oil clearance was perfect.
went to torque it all down when i cleaned it all and oiled it all again, and torqued in 3 steps.
25 ft. lbs
50 ft. lbs
65 ft lbs
the arp main stud package says to torque to 80 ft, lbs.
but that seems way to much to me and eveyone else i talked too.
any opinions?
[QUOTE=Teggietuner;1883531]i hate this.
i plasti gauged my main bearings and the oil clearance was perfect.
went to torque it all down when i cleaned it all and oiled it all again, and torqued in 3 steps.
25 ft. lbs
50 ft. lbs
65 ft lbs
the arp main stud package says to torque to 80 ft, lbs.
but that seems way to much to me and eveyone else i talked too.
any opinions?[/QUOTE]
you need to plasti gauge at the required torque, so 80ft-lbs. it’s way to much torque for stock main bolts, but not arp’s. the arp main studs have a much larger clamping force and require to always torque to their specs. if u didn’t then they wont be correct. and that goes for the main bearing oil clearances too. do you have the instructions? cause it does so to get it aligned bored.
from arp website:
3. Screw studs into block, finger tight
ONLY. For permanent installation, apply
Loc-tite (or similar adhesive) sparingly
to threads. Be sure and install the caps
promptly before the cement sets to prevent
misalignment of studs in block.
4. Install main caps, checking for binding
and misalignment. Lubricate threads, nuts
and washers with oil or ARP moly assembly
lubricant before installation. Note that torque
specs will vary by lubricant. Moly lube is
most consistent. Have block align honed.
5. Using the instructions provided with
the studs, tighten the nuts to proper
torque values three times. NOTE: If using
Loc-Tite or similar cement, proper preload
must be achieved prior to it setting up
i’m only trying to help :read:
well when i torque it to 80 ft lbs.
my crank will NOT turn by hand…
what the hell is wrong with it?
did you have the block align honed after the install of the studs?
[QUOTE=Teggietuner;1884582]well when i torque it to 80 ft lbs.
my crank will NOT turn by hand…
what the hell is wrong with it?[/QUOTE]
this is exactly what i was talking about. due to the excessive clamping force needed for the arp studs it actually warps and twists the main caps. this causes binding and a complete change to the main bore. thats why it is binding up and not turning. you MUST have the block align bored again to get it back to spec. once you get it align bored you then can torque the main caps to 80ft-lbs and plasti gauge for your bearing clearances. if the align bore was done properly you will be able to use stock sized bearings
or… use stock bolts.
my 507 buidl had stock studs revving to 9k plus
[QUOTE=turbociv910;1885131]or… use stock bolts.
my 507 buidl had stock studs revving to 9k plus[/QUOTE]
no offence but i am not on a budget with my motor. so for me its something i decided to do because i can. theres nothing wrong with stock main BOLTS but arp’s aren’t gonna be any worse then stock
revving ur motor to 9k+ as u say really comes down to balancing and not stock main BOLTS. also studs are stronger then bolts in there design alone. in the end ur only adding more structural strength by adding studs, which is never a bad thing