but the problem, was it there before you tried the auto-manual conversion?
do dash lights/check engine light/oil light/etc come on when you put it to the “on” position?
the speedo cable, are you talking about the cluster side, or the transmission side?
if tranny side, make sure the cable inside of the housing is as far in as possible, it’s suppost to stick out about 1/2" out of the tip, once you get that into the speed sensor, carefully put that C clip into that little slot (it’s slotted halfway) then once the clip is on, pull up gently, and very slightly on the speedo cable, then it should clip onto the groove on the cable.
ahh… ok that makes a lil more sense w/ the speedo clip. i tried something different… lol
the starting problem is… the lights and all that go on and the fuel pump does its noise and the radio cuts out when i try to start it as it used to before i did the swap. im gonna check out everything tomorrow. im not gonna be using this teg as my daily driver for a few more days because i need to re-register it. so hopefully i can get it solved before that so i dont have to pop the hood everytime i wanna start the car.
it may be possible that the starter solenoid isnt activating correctly… have u ever replaced it? or have u ever thought about the problem being the starter?
hehe replaced the starter about 3 or 4 times last year thinking that that was the problem. i think the onlything i hadn’t tested was the actual ignition itself. im gonna try and test that when i have time. and about the extra vacuum lines on the IM… how did you block them off??
A few months after completing my auto to manual swap, I started having starting issues. I replaced the starter with a newer unit and that helped for a short time. After I continued to have intermittent starting problems, I rebuilt the starter which helped for a while. Thats when I looked over the Helm manual and learned that 5-speed cars have an ignition relay - automatic cars do not.
I wired in an ignition relay and have never had a starting problem since.
I still have starting problems till this day (~3 years since swap.) There’s resistance somewhere on the ground. On days where the starter would click, I would have to do the wire trick. Was this the same problem you had?..and you could feed me a little more info the relay?
only times i’ve ever had starting problems was when my main fuel relay was going bad, or my starter solenoid was going bad, or my battery cables (negative wires werent in the correct spots)
On the automatic cars, the starter’s S terminal is wired directly to the ignition switch. As with most things, the ignition switch wears with time and resistance builds preventing enough current to flow to the starter. This is why we hear a click when the ignition is turned. The current supplied is only powerful enough to partially pull the plunger against the spring.
The relay takes the signal from the ignition switch to send full battery power to the S terminal. This takes the load off of the ignition switch itself and lets the relay handle the high current load required.
I don’t know how many miles are on your car, Kevin, but my chassis has over 300K.
Hey guys, Ive already got the auto trans and all out just one thing, I got all the cables and bolts and all taken off the auto pedal assembly but it doesnt want to come out. i got the one above the heater vents so thats not the prob.
The gas pedal side comes off like a quarter inch, but the brake side doesnt budge. Any ideas?
ok I’m confused there are 2 sensors on my clutch pedal where do they get wired to, this is my first import one has a pink wire on it and the other one has a black with blue stripe. I know the blacks are grounds but where do the other ones go. I have no cruse control in the car.
