automatic to manual swap (auto - 5spd conversion writeup)

:wtf: been usin the teg as my daily driver again and im having braking problems now. shakes a lil bit then shakes violently if i brake too hard. at first i thought it might of been an axle popping out or something. just checked everything out and everything is nice and tight and the axles are where they should be and there is no rubbing with the axles anywhere. this is gettin to be stupid now. i tried driving around and pulling the e-brake to see if it were the rear rotors just in case and thats not the problem. so pretty much the problem is when i first started driving it it was pretty quiet… then it got louder. after i check everything out it now does it when i accelerate and when i brake. this is stupid. anybody else have this problem after the swap??? i just want it to run good again!!! thanks -Chad-

*Edit - forgot to add that the first time it sounds like its coming from the drivers side wheel well… but i checked everything in there!

May not be connected to the swap, just coincidental. Sounds like you have warped rotors. Check to ensure that your rotors are flush with the hub and tight although it may too late now. If you don’t have a perfectly flush fit of the rotor then it will have a bit of runout which will cause uneven application of brake pressure on the rotor created the effect of a warped rotor.

i changed the rotors about a month or 2 before i started the swap and everything w/ my brake system was fine. but i guess it wouldn’t hurt to try and check that out. could warped rotors really cause that much shaking? and make it shake even when i accelerate now?

New rotors can be damaged by what I described in my previous post but no you should not get a shimmy when you accelerate. Only when braking and the harder you brake the worse it is. If you are getting it when you accelerate, I’m not sure what it might be. Can you describe it a bit more.

I’M AN IDIOT!!! comes out it was something much worse. im getting nothing from the tranny now… my fault for using the same flywheel bolts from my auto :mad: :mad: :mad: anyone know worse case scenario here? broken clutch? broken flywheel? internal damage? thanks guys

I guess there will be some swooning in Woonsocket. Hopefully the damage is minimal. My sympathy.

thx. just got the teg back in my yard and am gonna do my best to get it done this weekend depending on the amount of damage. thanks again

oh wow… one of the most important parts needed are the correct manual transmission flywheel bolts…

worst case scenerio - bolt holes stripped on the crank = replace crank/replace block/replace engine

clutch/pp should be fine since they’re splined onto the tranny, but then the bolts that did hold the flywheel on might’ve gotten into somthing and damaged it…

good luck.

the only real problem I had when I did the swap was the automatic flywheel bolts. for some reason my 12pt socket couldn’t cut it (it would always slip.) after just about rounding every bolt, I tried jbwelding,vice grips, etc. My last result was cutting the head of the bolt until it was the shape of a line. I then twisted it with pliers and it came off…i prayed for the head to not break off the shaft.

Well, I am glad to see that we have encountered just about every imaginable issue with the swap in this thread, and somehow gotten thorugh it. :open_mouth:

The funny thing is I (Gerok was my old user) started this thread back in 2001 and I can’t believe it’s still kicking in '06. One day I’ll read all the pages.

As far as the swap, I did mines in ending of ‘02 and it’s still going with no problems. I guess the ‘shim’ trick for the trans mount isn’t all that bad. I still didn’t change to longer bolts. I do have cm carbon kevlar disc with action ‘dual finger’ pressure plate, and I’ve been bangin’ it since then. With the super stiff clutch pedal, one of the springs snapped. However, it still drives normal.

Haha. I did mine in my driveway, using this thread, a helms manual, a 20$ toolbox and some scizzor jacks. I was 17 at the time…last year. I love teh g2ic. Going back in again today to start working on the clutch.

What exactly is the difference between the automaic and 5 speed half shafts? I doubt they would make the gearing on one side of the differential different then the other because that would make one tire spin faster than the other and that would tear up the diff.

What if I tossed my cruise? Do you have to still use it?

What do you mean by “Half-Shaft”?

If you’re talking about the axles themselves (eg. driver and passenger side axles), there is no difference between AT and MT axles.

If, however, you’re talking about the intermediate shaft, there is a difference between AT and MT units.

alright guys… good news… if the flywheel fell off it shouldn’t start up right? well it just started up no problem. pretty sure the problem is back to what i originally thought… axle. my drivers side axle has no rollers on it for some reason and there are some really small chips and pieces. also… the piece that i had holding the boot onto the halfshaft was off and grease was coming out. i also noticed that my car was sitting a lil funny there… so add everything up and im pretty sure its the axle. gonna find out tomorrow for sure. :slight_smile:

Yes Im talking about the Intermediate Shaft, What is the exact difference between the two? Is the 5 speed one longer because the tranny is alittle smaller and it has to go further or the spline sizes different, what exactly is the difference?

the difference is not that it doesnt go into the 5spd tranny. it goes in fine. BUT when you try to bolt it up to the block it will NOT line up. so for this swap it is a must that you get a 5spd intermediate shaft.

How wont it bolt up? It was bolted to the block when it was in the auto. So ur saying the 5 speed one is longer.

yea. i think the auto one is a little shorter