ok i guess i was over thinking this part…i thought the shift assembly was like a big bracket like setup like on the autos but now i see its just the shifter and both linkages (one of those being the stabalizer) i guess i was lost as to how it was being worded. as long as i get the shifter and linkages ill be good on that part.
Yes thats correct and you will also need the bolt and washer that anchors the stabilizer rod to the transmission and a spring pin that anchors the shift linkage to the shift rod of the transmission. They are inexpensive parts available from Honda or Acura and may be available at other places. This might also be a good time to examine the bushings on the shift linkage and decide whether you want to replace the rubber bushings with the Energy Suspension type. Again its not very expensive.
i noticed those to, im assuming thats the one everyone calls the “bitch pin”…and the linkage im actually getting from a member here and coming with good condition bushings.
ok if i dare ask haha…
i am going to start this swap this week and just want to do a check list on the project to make sure i got this whole thread clear…
i got all required parts (or are on their way)
money a little short this time around so i’m shimming the auto mount for now… so to be sure i read that part right its shimming it 1/2" or 1"? with longer bolts and proper thickness nuts that slide over the bolts, (grade 8) will buy the innovative kit in a couple months
wiring required is stuff to bypass the auto safety’s and thats all in the Helms
EGR i’m guessing that can just be blocked off with a plate? as its not used for the manuals.
vacuum lines related to the EGR and the black box on firewall can be removed
grease or anti sieze axle splines going into halfshaft
GM synchromesh trans fluid or Honda Manual Trans fluid
new b itch pin/spring pin
assorted nuts and bolts necessary for linkage and stabalizer bar to be attached
drill hole in firewall for clutch cable
ASSEMBLE DRIVE AND ENJOY
If there’s anything i missed or any last minute insight, i’ll take it. Please be nice i do know what i’m doing and capable of handling this project heh heh
Thanks :rockon:
Correct pedals, ECU?
i got the pedals…ECU im just using the auto one for now. i can handle the code, if it gives me to much chit i can get a 5spd one
goodluck integranewbie im doin the swap this weekend to. hey do you know if we can use the front auto tranny mount on the 5speed tranny and can we use the auto tranny bolts to bolt the tranny to the block? thx
as far as i know bell housing bolts are the same
i still have to look undermy hood again but i swear up and down mine has no front mount…but looking through this entire thread i saw nothing about that mount. and if you buy the innovative kit for an auto to manual swap they dont even include a front mount.
so i guess i/we will find out once we get into it heh
Yes the bell housing bolts are the same. But the flywheel bolts are different i think. Also the intermediate shaft is different as well. Other than that it looks like you have everything covered. I did this swap about 2 months ago so if you have any more questions feel free to ask. My email is loweredsierra97@yahoo.com I wish now that i would have taken a bunch of pics.
appreciate it dalejrfan. dont beat yourself up over pictures…they are nice yes but not impossible without. i think im gonna try to myself since it’llltake place over a couple days and maybe help with reinstall aswell
Yes thx I will definitly keep you guys in mind lol
goldenls: my email is roy_boy80@yahoo.com so maybe if theres something i can answer or help with or vise versa 2-3 minds are better then 1
ok so half way through the swap and noticed my auto has a egr valve on the intake manifold and the manual one doesent sooooooo my friend said that we cant remove it and plug it and we cant leave it we have to swap it with a manual intake manifold is this true help please lol im goin crazy lol
i’m trying to ask this very question in another thread right now.
honestly with what i know of how cars work, i personally dont see why you cant just run the auto ECU, leave the entire EGR system as is, and just swap tranny’s. because essentially all you are doing is changing what controls the trans and how its shifted. i dont see why the engine would run any different or how the EGR system is linked to the trans.
basically im thinking keep the EGR keep the auto ECU the engine itself is controlled the same and should not run or operate any different
hopefully someone who knows for sure and can explain can chime in
Anyone?
looking back through the thread i saw a couple people that just plugged up the EGR in one form or another and they never had problems with the auto ECU hard to say.
i’m thinking leave the auto’s engine/ecu setup the same…remove the tranny…the engine runs the same
now bolt up a mechanical trans…still no change
the egr system is on auto vehicles to supplement the decreased fuel mileage compared to a standard transmission.
i beleive its tied into the transmission ecu, which should get tossed out with the auto tranny.
your car will technically run the same but without the proper ecu you will throw a code. this doesnt bother some, for others its an eyesore.
i presonally i swapped ecus because i wouldlike to know if anything else ever happens. if thelight is always on how are you gonna know when something else comes up?
i got my ecu for $25 and it was money well spent imo
makes good sense. i guess and would make things simpler and can actually block off the EGR and remove all the excess stuff that accompanies the auto as well
lksdG2, so you which manual ecu did you pair up with your engine in order to take care of the CEL? I’m in the middle of my auto-to-manual swap as well and sounds like it may be worth while to get a manual ecu…Thanks for the help!