I just stuck a bolt in the hose to the EGR valve and im running a 5spd ecu. I cant tell if i have a CEL light on though cuz my bulb is burnt out.
is your EGR unplugged as well?
i finished the swap last night everythings good except i used a manual intake manifold(without egr) i think it was out of a 92-93 with my throttle body and now my car is idling funny like up and down from 1000-1500. everythings plugged in lines are in no cel idk man but its pissin me off lol. if anyone can help let me know thank you.
p.s the car is 10x better as a 5 speed i love it
You have to set the base idle and timing. Warm up the engine to full operating temperature. Disconnect the idle air control valve connector and put a jumper into the service check connector first. Then turn the idle screw on the throttle body clockwise until the idle is at roughly 700 RPM or at a point when it will keep running. Then set the timing. Re-adjust the idle to the set point you want minus 100-200 RPM. For example if you want an idle at 900 RPM then set the idle for 700 RPM. Re-connect the IACV and remove the jumper. Take the car for a drive and drive it at a constant speed of 30-40 mph for a few minutes. Your idle should be good now. It may take a few days of driving until things settle down. Your ECU has to set up its short and long term trim settings. You now have basically a new setup as far as the ECU is concerned. If you are using an automatic ECU, you may get a code for the EGR. I advise you to get a manual ECU if you have not done so. It won’t reach its max potential with a code triggered.
If you need more help, there is an idle Teg Tip available.
i jus did my 5spd swap and now mine wont start. i hooked up the wires right. theres no codes flashing. the mfr will keep clicking any help would be appreciated
i got it running. it had couple blown fuses. and i cleaned all the grounds. so its all good.
cool! glad to hear that you got it sorted out!
thanks man. in waiting on clutch cable now so i can move it
[QUOTE=OldGuy;2079137]You have to set the base idle and timing. Warm up the engine to full operating temperature. Disconnect the idle air control valve connector and put a jumper into the service check connector first. Then turn the idle screw on the throttle body clockwise until the idle is at roughly 700 RPM or at a point when it will keep running. Then set the timing. Re-adjust the idle to the set point you want minus 100-200 RPM. For example if you want an idle at 900 RPM then set the idle for 700 RPM. Re-connect the IACV and remove the jumper. Take the car for a drive and drive it at a constant speed of 30-40 mph for a few minutes. Your idle should be good now. It may take a few days of driving until things settle down. Your ECU has to set up its short and long term trim settings. You now have basically a new setup as far as the ECU is concerned. If you are using an automatic ECU, you may get a code for the EGR. I advise you to get a manual ECU if you have not done so. It won’t reach its max potential with a code triggered.
If you need more help, there is an idle Teg Tip available.[/QUOTE]
ok thank you i will try it out but what is the jumper your talking about lol?
got a question need an answer ASAP please
i guess i’m confused on this shimming idea, i’m only doing it to get it running and in a month i’m getting the proper conversion mount
regarding shimming the auto trans mount which auto mount parts do i use and which manual mount parts do i need
just let me know by number per the schematic here please
thank you very much
what i did for now was drill 2 holes in the plate that bolts to the tranny and used long bolts and attached the auto mount. i made sure my engine was level b4 i put spacers go between it. send me an email and i can send pics of how i did it jus temporary. minitruckboy@yahoo.com
I did this… getting some CEL’s 13 and 43… anyone got a vacuum diagram or something i can follow? would the EGR have something to do with this??
would the fact that I threw a 90 ECU into a 91 matter?
Post your email address and I’ll send you a 1 page pdf file of the B17 vacuum connections.
I sent you the B18 vacuum connections.
recieved thank you!
well nevermind my last post regarding the mount…got the motor and trans out and got to find 2 of my mounts fell apart, the driverside mount almost there and the auto mount was starting as well lol so next week will be calling innovative to make an order
and yes the pedals were the worst part of it all everything else is really a breeze
If you are buying the replacement set, Innovate will allow you to substitute the auto to manual mount for the same price for the replacement set. The mounts are very stiff. Unless you are racing the car, I recommend the “red” mounts. Thats what I have and they still transmit the noise and vibration into the cabin of the car. I have a real nice audio system in my car but with these mounts, I wasted my money on the audio. I am thinking of going back to the stock Acura radio because my car is not a daily driver so whenever I do drive it, its a spirited drive. I also have MFactory gears which means high RPM in all gears. That coupled with the mounts mean lots of noise.
i came across this write up and its quite good and detailed
If anyone can provide some pics of their auto mount shimmed I would appreciate it. I have to hold off on the conversion mount but I would like to get it running. It is my dd so i can’t tackle the swap yet until I figure this out. Email is lenin_vera@yahoo.com