The other part of his Q was whether there was a shop in DC/MDVA who would do the conversion. I’d like to know, too. I suspect that you’ll just have to call around to different shops and ask 'em.
1991teg… The axle extension is different then the 5 speed.
The auto one sticks out about 1/2 inch away from the block so you need the 5 speed one.
I do agree with everyone thought about selling it and making money on it. Or if your that atatched toit then do the swap…
Thanks for the props on my XSi guys…
thanks a lot, i’ll check them out tns out.
also so we can end these unneeded posts…
i will not be selling my auto and buying a 5spd because of
- the amount of money that was already invested in the car
- the low mileage and only 1 previous owner
- brotha ain’t got no loot considering i’m a college student :argh:
unanswered auto to manual swap questions
i just started the conversion yesterday
engine/tranny was already out
pedals almost back in
clutch cable ready
my questions are:
-
there is a big gold box blocking my pedals from going it (it sits right where clutch pedal would be) and i checked my helm and it says its the A/T controller. will it be okay if i remove this? or should i just try to move it aside so that the pedals would fit? keep i mind i will be using an automatic ecu
-
the ECU itself is a jdm b16 vtec ecu. so when i plug the 2 wires together to make it ECU think the car is in park, will my vtec still work? since vtec will only work if the car is “moving”.
any help would be great thanks!!
auto - manual… Tools needed?
I know there’s alot of you doing these swaps like they are going out style so i wanna know, how long did it take you and what tools did u need other then wrenches? I already have a tranny, flywheel and short shifter comming and im getting the rest of the parts when i get paid.
do a search there is a lot of info out there if you search tranny swap or conversion. i myself did it but i got a shop to do it for me and they had all th eparts
you need quite a bit more… linkages(clutch+shifter), pedals, shifter assembly(otherwise u cant mount the short shifter) + knob, clutch, plus optional shit is intake manifold and gauge cluster. i know i forgot somethin too. tools…get all ur metric wrenches and sockets ready, clutch allignment tool should come with the clutch, definately - and + screwdrivers to pull the dash and shifter assembly. u gotta drop ur exhaust so you may need a grinder.
we did it in a day. use normal everday metric tools. you’ll need washers to be able to bolt up the manual tranny so that it sits flush (unless that was only on a four door, search on that). you need an ecu as well. you’ll need the pedal assembly. um…contact turboteg1.8 for more info. He has a list and he’ll tell you errythang you need to know. Any other questions, just ask.
i forgot its in the archives however u spell it.
will i need something to support my motor though when i take the tranny mounts out? Cuz i heard the tranny mounts are helping the motor stay in place too.
get front and rear out first, rear is a bitch when its holding the motor in. i suggest u do it first
won’t that make the engine drop a little or tweak or something? cuz i don’t wanna start rippin the stuff out and have engine screw up and have to buy more shit for it.
stick a jack stand underneath the motor. and if you got an extra jack, you can fluctuate the height of the motor, when your boltingthe tranny back up.
you’re not your
yea jack works but dont put a hole in you oil pan. you will need to pull a couple crossmembers out from what i remember. you need to pull 3 motor mounts to do this swap so you definately need to supprt the motor.
where is the best spot to support the motor then?
i dunno im sure u could find a board or something to distribute the wieght of the engine across a wider area. any1 got suggestions? you could prolly jack the engine from the oil pan as long as ur careful.
i don’t wanna risk breaking the oil pan and having to replace that.
just finished swapping in an S1 tranny into my 90gs 
drives great, few things i should mention-
-passenger mount was about a half inch off. had to grind the tranny mount and a little of the bushing mount for it to line up. im using the es inserts in the front/rear. all mounts are manual mounts.
-for the tranny mount spacing, i used one washer on the tranny, two half inch nuts on top of that, the tranny mount on top of that, 3 washers, then finally the bushing mount.
-for the reverse wiring per shenrie’s writeup, i could not find the black/silver wire.
-at the neutral safety switch harness: i soldered the shift lock wires together; currently have the yellow and green/white wires joined, then the green/red and black joined.
-i can get the R to light up by emulating the auto shifter, which joins the yellow and green/black, then green/red and black. this however doesnt turn the reverse lights on.
-with the current wiring, when the door is opened and key is in the OFF or ON, i get the chime. when the parking light or headlights are on in the above conditions, i get that other chime as well. i believe its supposed to happen only when key is OFF and/or lights are on when the door is opened.
:auto: :gunright:
:manual: 
Those post doesn’t work, it same something is being deleted.