i hope your doing a motor swap because a 5spd will not matt up to where a auto trany use to be because of an extra guide pin on the block.
Originally posted by p8ntballer
i hope your doing a motor swap because a 5spd will not matt up to where a auto trany use to be because of an extra guide pin on the block.
the dowel pins fit in fine.
shenrie’s writeup http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=9357
im gonna try and get a few pics up. swap is already in tho…
Originally posted by p8ntballer
i hope your doing a motor swap because a 5spd will not matt up to where a auto trany use to be because of an extra guide pin on the block.
What the hell are you talking about?
BTW, GJ XDEep. I’m doing my swap with the PR mounts as soon as they make it. I’m also swapping in a new motor at the same time 
How much did you pay for the manual swap?
Originally posted by SE-37K
[B]What the hell are you talking about?
BTW, GJ XDEep. I’m doing my swap with the PR mounts as soon as they make it. I’m also swapping in a new motor at the same time [/B]
thanks. apparently you can use the 92-93 mount as its longer(?).
i would think twice about using es inserts in the front and rear. theres just about as much vibration in neutral as the auto was in gear with my urethane filler (front solid, rear stuffed). i was looking forward to a smoother idle…
i bought a whole manual parts car for 400. only had front end damage. came with the s1 tranny, shaved trunk lid. full interior, working motor, etc.
SOMEONE lost my shift linkage and clutch cable so i had to buy another (100+50). hopefully ill sell all the parts and make enough so that i actually profit from the whole thing 
ok i finally got some of the wiring figured out.
the yellow from the tranny reverse switch goes to the yellow(12v) on the neutral safety switch harness (12p connector). the black from the tranny goes to the green/black(reverse light). this enables the reverse light. the green/red wire is to activate the “R” on the dash. if you want it you just need to ground it somehow, like with a relay.
the green/white(“P” and keylock) is grounded with the black wire.
then of course the two fat black wires(keylock) with their own 2p connector (next to the 12p connector) you just splice together so the car will start.
FYI if you look at how the neutral safety switch is wired, youll see that when in reverse the yellow and green/black are joined, while the green/red is grounded. when in “P”, the two fat black wires(keylock) are joined while the green/white(“P”) is grounded. this is how i came up with the above, along with tracing the helm’s diagrams.
also keep some 15/20amp fuses for you underdash fusebox nearby in case you mess something up or your gauges stop working. i thought it was my ICU, but it just turns out i didnt inspect the fuses carefully last night.
you know i found it odd i havent gotten any ecu codes since the swap (well related ones that is). i have a 90gs. shenrie had a 91 with internal PA.
currently talking with the pgmfi gawds about the ecu conversion…
alrighty folks. with blundar’s help i snipped off Q28(one of the lockup lines) in the 90 ecu to be able to run the pgmfi rom, however im starting to get a hunting/loping that wont go away unless i put the stock rom back in. otherwise launch control is pretty cool 
Thought i’d update this post with more info for ppl thinking about doing this swap incase it hasn’t already been stated in other auto - manual swaps. A list of tools i’ve bought since i started. Pickle bar, swivel socket, impact wrench for the center bolt on the hubs, and deep wall sockets. I actually wound up having to cut the lower ball joint out on the driver side cuz the pickle bar wasn’t doing a damn thing, neither was penatrating oil, or a hammer, or a torch.
dang dude, that pickle bar should have worked. a big hammer on the end of that thing should have done it. oh well, atleast it’s off.
ya i know i was pissed
I know how you guys feel. I had to go buy a small sledge hammer for this.
I jacked up the engine with a small hydraulic jack and a wide block of wood. This seemed to have saved the oil pan. … hope this helps
Good luck with the motor mounts 
you gotta have all the tools (and then some) necessary to pull a motor. i’d rather do 3 motor swaps than do this over again. we had a crane with balancer, tranny jack, 2 scissor jacks, two 2-1/4 ton jacks (small), two sets of tools, drill with 1-3/4" hole saw, drill bits, crow bars, 4’ breaker bar, compressor with gun, ratchet, riveter, lots of miscellaneous tools. every morning i would bring another box of tools to help. also 2 gallons of water and lots of bananas.
you dont need all those jacks, but they helped when getting the mounts in/off and putting the tranny in. 2 people DEFINITELY helped make things easier. at one point i was jumping on the engine to get the front ES insert in. i forgot all about the clutch alignment tools so i had a friend buy me a universal one from pep boys. so ya, you need all the stuff needed to pull a motor plus the hole saw to drill the hole for the clutch cable and simple bits to drill the hole for the shift linkage mount.
-drill with 1-3/4" hole saw for clutch cable, takes about 10-15min to drill through the firewall with a cordless 9.2v makita. firewall is pretty thin imo.
-drill bit, somewhere around 1/8" to mount the shift linkage.
-funnel with flexible hose helps to fill the tranny when youre done.
Just as a note: be prepared to pull the dash to install the pedals. I’ve been told that this can be done without pulling the dash… but I wouldn’t suggest it.
Originally posted by TegraCraze
Just as a note: be prepared to pull the dash to install the pedals. I’ve been told that this can be done without pulling the dash… but I wouldn’t suggest it.
:lol: probably one of the most time consuming parts of the conversion. you gotta pull the dash, move the entire harness out of the way (well i did), and remove the heater ducts. one guy said he did the whole thing in 8 hrs and i think thats complete BS now. by himself even.
oh shit, i hope i don’t have to pull my dash out cuz the last time i pulled it, it took 4 hours and a cracked windshield when i was done. 
Originally posted by TotalChaos
oh shit, i hope i don’t have to pull my dash out cuz the last time i pulled it, it took 4 hours and a cracked windshield when i was done.
4hrs indeed. cracked windshield? :think:
i didn’t pull the steering wheel and learned that patience is a virtue once again. Cracked the windshield when trying to pull the dash over the steering wheel.
Originally posted by TotalChaos
i didn’t pull the steering wheel and learned that patience is a virtue once again. Cracked the windshield when trying to pull the dash over the steering wheel.
:tsk: at least you got a shiny, clear, new window like me 
merged most relevant threads here including shenrie’s writeup so far.
shenrie here are all the pics for the install. hope its enough. album here http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4287747657&p=4188804366&idx=46
thanks to all for your help. insane task, amazing results. no regrets
heres some teaser pics for those too lazy to make an imagestation account:
this is what awaits you.
doing something to the old slushbox
auto vs manual mounts. pretty much the same except for the tranny.
auto vs manual axles. pretty much the same. my AT passnger side seems to be slightly shorter, but the hub nut still goes on good.
drill two holes for shift linkage
some of the wiring headache. ended up being pretty simple.
drilled 1.75" hole for clutch using holesaw. cleaned up with a dremel. perfect fit!
welded plate to hole using an old computer case. spot welded top and bottom, then siliconed.
for you super freaks, rubberized undercoating to seal up the bare metal and welds on the bottom
THE END.
