Originally posted by XDEep
auto vs manual axles. pretty much the same. my AT passnger side seems to be slightly shorter, but the hub nut still goes on good.
Word of warning. The Auto and Manual Half shaft do appear to look the same. However, installing the Auto half-shaft in the manual will put the tranny in a bind. Eventually your differential will not hold up. Speaking from personal experience.
Originally posted by TegraCraze
Word of warning. The Auto and Manual Half shaft do appear to look the same. However, installing the Auto half-shaft in the manual will put the tranny in a bind. Eventually your differential will not hold up. Speaking from personal experience.
ah good more evidence. i just did it cuz shenrie said so. i couldnt tell any visual difference, and was too lazy to actually count/compare the teeth. all i know is it was a cinch to take out, but i had to pound it in quite a bit with a wood block and hammer.
Thanks for the mail man, and holy shit…you removed the entire dash!!! There was no real need to do that. I just pulled out the steering column and everything underneath to do this swap. I never removed the entire dash. Did I word it so it sounded like that was the only way??
Even with the dash removed, I still had some difficulty swapping the pedals. I’m sure that the swap could be done without dash removal. It only took me 2 hrs to remove the dash b/c I’ve done it before. The re-install took a little longer.
Make sure you jump the park/lock connector.
i did the swap and it was pretty simple with the help of shenrie’s and tegboi’s write-ups. i got all my parts for $500 from a junk yard, the only problem i rean into was the first tranny i got was trashed and i had to remove it and get another on. as for the dowel pins they just came off with my auto and i didnt put them back on, so it bolted up fine. and you dont have to remove the dash to get the pedals in and out all you have to do is droped the steering column and unplug some of the wire harnesses, as for the tcm( tranny control module) just unplug it you dont need it. for the pass. side tranny mount i used 5 1/2" thick nuts and got 5 1/2" longer bolts than stock and it works great. the auto int. med. shaft wont work because it doesnt have the lip that the manual one has where it mounts up at. all in all the swap wasnt to hard it was just long and mind bogling, good luck.
also you can use your auto ecu you dont have to buy a manual one, i mean im using mine and i have no cells
Originally posted by TegraCraze
The Auto and Manual Half shaft do appear to look the same.
No, they don’t. I had a chance to take a look at both of them out of the car and there is a difference. It’s so obvious, most people just over look it.
Originally posted by 93tegls
for the pass. side tranny mount i used 5 1/2" thick nuts and got 5 1/2" longer bolts than stock and it works great.
Here’s the mount I’ll be using:
Originally posted by XDEep
:lol: probably one of the most time consuming parts of the conversion. you gotta pull the dash, move the entire harness out of the way (well i did), and remove the heater ducts. one guy said he did the whole thing in 8 hrs and i think thats complete BS now. by himself even.
what the hell?
I did the pedal swap without pulling the dash and it took no where near 4 hours. I also worked alone.
after looking at thos epics… im glad i let a shop do min elol
Doing the pedal assembly is not difficult. It takes time and a little common sense, especially when it comes to removing the heater ducting.
Hey Arcon, is that mount specific for the auto tranny? Just curious cause youll still have to shim if it isnt.
Another thing that makes it easy to do the pedals is removing the drivers seat so you can lay flat on the floor and not have to hang outside the car. I just dont contort like I used too;)
hmmm…
I see you removed the steering column instead of just dropping it. In that case… you wouln’t have to remove the dash I supose. I had to drill the hole for the clutch cable from the inside. How are you doing it?
Exactaly, if you remove the steering column, you dont need to remove the dash. I also drilled my clutch cable hole from the engine compartment.
Originally posted by shenrie
Hey Arcon, is that mount specific for the auto tranny? Just curious cause youll still have to shim if it isnt.
Hello Shenrie,
The mount is made specificly to mount a manual transmission into an automatic DA. I’m using the mounts so I don’t have to mess with the shimming and possibly have the motor mis-aligned.
I’m drilling the hole from the engine bay too.
haha oh well. i didnt do most of the labor from the inside. he insisted on removing the dash so who was i to complain. i think its only a few bolts anyways. several on the side and one behind the clock.
~
same here 1b4e, my car has low milage, good body for being in a rust environment, 1 owner and I am attached to it (I love my teg, even in auto form but want 5spd fun!), but its auto, was thinking on doing the swap myself, getting an old hi millage teg and using it to make my car a 5sp and converting the 5sp to auto for winter driving.
What do you mean when you say “Paying someone for labor to pull your dash out.” Why does the dash need to be removed, and what all has to be removed?
Also do you need a manual ECU for a auto-converted car and viseversa?
Thanks!
Wait until all the small stuff starts hitting you. Theres alot more to doing a 5 speed conversion. then a trans. Flywheel, clutch, clutch cable, trans, trans mount and brackets. Not sure about the speed O. All the old shifter needs to be converter over to stick. interior panels around shifter. Pedal assy needs to be changed. Thats not easy. computer. Not sure but what about the starter dissable switch. ON an auto trans a vechile woundnt start unless its in PARK. that needs to be dissabled. And theres a bunch more. Also after you do this your car still has signs of being stick and will never be a true 5 speed car. Your guage ASSY will still have the light for auto unless you change that out. You still have extra wires laying around under the hood for electronics on the auto trans. It will never be the same. JUST BY A STICK. insted of spending a 1,000-1,500 to swap just sell your 4,000.00 teg and buy a 5,000.00 5 speed. I bet you can find a teg for the same price as yours. in 5 speed. Probley with more mods to. and if you do loose a 1,000 in selling yours for 4gs and buying one for 5gs your still better off then hacking yours to try and become a 5 speed. JUST LISTEN TO THE MAJORITY! YOUR BETTER OFF.
Common, people. Who out there has done this conversion? I want to know your experience!
I plan to buy a whole car to do this conversion so I would need to know what all I would have to swap out. Pleease guys someone curretly active must have done this before!
Ok gots me a few questions, thinking on doing this to my 91 auto rs teg.
First off:
How much of the dash must be removed? I seen in the previous pics that the sterring colum was removed. Is this necessary? I have experience taking out the cluster so no problems there but just not sure what all has to be taken apart in the dash.
Second:
I am looking at getting a 90 LS part car 5spd to do this swap. Now since is an LS and mines a RS what type of ECU do I need in the 91 version LS version or RS or is there any difference? Also how much does a clutch cost? The parts car I am getting has a few miles on it and the seller sys its in need of a clutch…
Third:
Once I am done I plan to make the parts car into a auto winterbeater, can this be done by just putting the auto stuff, and 91 ecu into the 90 and make it work? Or should I get a 90 auto ECU?Is it even possible to make a 5spd into a auto?
So fare this is all I have to ask. Im planning on doing this cause my current car has low millage (105000KMS) on it and I dont really want to sell it.