the whole dash needs to be taken off to get to the bolt that holds the pedals in, i think it’s behind the heater duct or something i can’t remember. and my clutch was 200 shipped on ebay. Brand new exedy stage 2 clutch kit 
The ECU’s should be the same but im not 100% sure on that.
Thw whole dash meaning the uderside or the whole top also?
as stated before, you do not need to remove the entire dash, so ya just the bottom. mine was taken out because my friend insisted on doing it while i was working on the motor. i also wanted to take out those pesky indiglos and whatnot.
you should get a 5spd ecu. the auto will work, however you will get a code 12: egr lift sensor even after bypassing/disconnecting the egr hoses.
exactly. i weighed my options and hours of labor, and it pretty much came out the same (on paper), whether it was transferring all my mods/interior/exterior (mine was in better condition overall) to the parts car, or doing the manual swap. keeping my car and doing the swap was my choice and i dont regret it.
as far as it never being the same as a true 5spd, i dont think its much of an issue. the console/gauges are just for looks, and you can swap that (i reused my console and it looks fine). mechanically, the mount is higher but you can fix that. then theres the drilling of the shifter holes- not exact, but not necessary. you could never tell my car used to be auto, other than the red P on my bezel 
:search: *merging this thread with main swap thread. if you want specific help in your geographic area, please indicate in your next title.
Well I dunno, I really muss driving 5spd, and this teg it good in auto form but like I said I miss 5spd. I just really dont like having to take the sterring coloum appart or heading ducts, never done that before lol.
Any ont pics of their finished conversion?
nice pics! i can’t wait for mine to be finished! how did you fix the passenger side tranny mount problem? did you cut it off and weld one on from a 5 speed? or did you shimmy it?
like 2 or 3 1/2" nuts and washers
another reason why i sold my gen2 auto and got a gen3 stick hehe… conversion is costing too much, may as well get a new car. my gen2 worth about 4k$, conversion cost like 3-4k$.
i got my gen3 for 12k$… which has no rust, newer engine, and clean like new interior, not to mention it has AC and electric windows and shitz hehe…
My gen 2 auto has a next to new engine also I like the styling of the gen2 over gen3, lots of life left, and areound here gen 2 integras are rare and expensive, 5-7 grand, but my parents well my parrents will not allow me to do the swap, well atleast my mom wount, guess I will haveta wait and see what my dad says lol.
BTW Nice pics, lots o wires on that yard lol! Wanna do my 2 door teg hehe.
someone asked about my experience so i thought id share my response again.
the main thing is you need to have all the necessary tools, and then some. at the minimum, a 256piece craftsman set (metric/standard, but if you buy one, get one thats all metric), several jacks, crowbars, drill, 32mm(?) for axle nut, large breaker bar or very powerful 3/4" or 1" impact gun. youre basically doing a harder job than pulling the motor. you can do it yourself, it just may get annoying at times but you can call someone over to help. i live in a condo so i had to do it at a friends house. every single day for 7 days i brought over new tools and supplies. anything i could grab that i thought might help. we used both of our tool sets and jacks and his engine hoist.
on paper it may look like 15hours, but realistically double it. it took us about 30-40 because i did several other things while we were there. have money and access to the store for nuts and bolts, or if you forget you need a clutch alignment tool. definitely have a helms manual handy.
for the parts car, i got lucky and we found one on the street by my house. you can try www.recycler.com or even www.autotrader.com
i hear ya on finding a reliable mechanic. i wouldn’t trust they’d take care in torquing everything to spec, and replacing every nut and bolt even when you can’t see them or think they are useless. i get a knock when i shift hard and im hoping its not a missed bolt behind the dash.
good luck, it wasnt so much a difficult task, just time consuming. the outcome was 1000000x worth it, we just vowed we’d never want to do that ever again.
where did you get this mount?
Just wondering with those pics above are all those wires on the yard out of the auto and never put back in?
oh no that was from the parts car. i cannibalized some of it to use for mine. you only need to do those few wires for the conversion.
Oh I c. Just wondering becasue I was going to do this swap myself but I wanted to take the old 5spd car and make it auto for a winterbeater…
:shock: youll definitely need the harness then. shift solenoid wires, tcm wires…
Ok well thinking on getting a complete car to do this and those wires will be avalible to me, just hope its not a total pain the in azz. Does anyone know if the wiring for a 90 is the same style as a 91? I know the ECU is defferent but is the wiring the same?
Thanks!
my half shaft is too short? need help
sorry about the title wasn’t too sure what to say. ne ways im down to the last bit on my 5 speed conversion and the half shaft i bought off a 92 integra rs is too short. it fits inside the hub but when u go to tighten it, it pulls out of the boot :shrug: i have a b18a1 block with a s1 tranny. and my car is a 90 ls. were the halfshafts in the newer 2nd gen’s slightly shorter? or am i missing something?
anyone know? is there something differen’t about 5 speed engines and automatic engines other then the tranny’s? i must be missing something 