i yanked off the hoses to and from the egr and the black egr box, then simply plugged the hose on the manifold with a screw. its also a convenient vacuum source for the bov and wastegate
the auto ecu isnt a problem if youre running the stock program. like i said, ive only gotten code 12: egr lift, which i just ignore until i find out which pin to snip, or just throw in a manual obd0 pr4/pm6. if you’re not running the stock program, try putting it back in. i.e. i could’nt run the previous versions of the pgmfi bin w/o the motor cutting off when i touched the brake. solution - snip pin 28 to get rid of the code 19.
are you talking about the black box on the passenger side firewall in the engine bay? i was gonna take that out but i had no clue what it did and there’s a hose that goes into the intake manifold :think:
so can i just unbolt that box and disconnect everything inside and just plug that one hose and be fine? and i plugged 2 hoses yesterday and idling problem still remains so im gonna take off my intake and cover those holes with my finger and if the idling problem stops i guess i got a bad sensor according to that one post.
okay so you know that test where you plug the holes on the intake manifold with your fingers? well i covered the bottom one and nothing happened, i covered the top one with my finger and the idle died down to normal and didn’t rev at all so im guess that’s my problem. but what is that piece called i have to replace? im gonna try to find out from the other post but im pretty sure that’s what’s causing my idle problem now.
EDIT: it’s my IACV valve according to the post. does ne one know where to get this part for fairly cheap?
my friend has a spare for 10 bucks im gonna try. still can’t figure out my stereo. good guys even replaced my deck for free so i got a brand new deck not even 2 hours old now and still no tunes
F*CK it man ,
I have a 91 DA that runs low 13’s and its an auto. i dont really care to much. its fun racing people and when they see that they just got there ass kicked by an auto they get even more pissed. just build up the motor and get a line lock in the trans and your set :manual:
lol too late to say fuck it man. it’s already been done. but hell my car won’t start now. it turns over just won’t start up. already checked the distributor cap for spark and it has spark, rotor spins like it should, getting spark from the plugs, and smells like im getting gas. but my friend thinks it might be the fuel pump?
does the check engine light come on for at least 5 seconds when you turn the key? (not to the start position)…auto to manual swap its not that difficult as it seems :rockon: ,all you need to do is find a passenger side mount or just shim it…the steering coloum now thats a bitch it took me 3 hours to complete the pedal assembly every thing else is pretty easy…when i was done i had minor problems but they was all fixed.
Yea I am going to the next step, getting a whole beatercar to do the swap, going to take my project integra (its auto) and make it a 5spd from the parts car. Then my plan is it take the parts car and make it a auto from the leftover parts from the project car then use it for a winterbeater…
have fun with that ya my check engine light comes on if i turn the key once then goes off after like 5 seconds but no biggie it’s always done that i think. my s3 light flashes though and it’s really annoying! is there a way to get rid of that or do i just cover it with a manual gauge bezel?
i ditched the AT computer and switched it with a manual computer from the same year. that made the check engine light go off, and the s3 light stoped blinking. and my car used to idle at 2 grand or it would jump and that’s due to a vacuum line that was used for the torque converter so i just plugged it and it went away. my cruise control stopped working after the swap though. and all i have left to fix is my alignment, my temp gauge, and i gotta get a new exhaust now cuz my friggin muffler fell off and i got an exhaust leak and now my car is anoyingly loud and sounds like a friggin big ass rice rocket with a coffee can for a muffler! :mad:
ya my check engine light comes on if i turn the key once then goes off after like 5 seconds but no biggie it’s always done that i think. my s3 light flashes though and it’s really annoying! is there a way to get rid of that or do i just cover it with a manual gauge bezel?