I’m curious what setups people are using for autoX. I’m experiencing a lot of understeer in sweepers. Granted I’m a rookie, and adjusting my entry speed would probably greatly reduce understeer.
But I’m unsure about tire pressures and what can I do to loosen up the back end a little so that it’s more predictable rather than having the snap oversteer.
Here’s my set up:
205/50-15
Front tire preswure ~42 - 45psi
Rear tire pressure ~32 - 35 psi
It’s fun spinning the tires through the sweepers, but I’m sure it’s not the fastest way around. I’m also using cheap tires for my first season. I plan on getting some Azenis 615s for next season. I want to have a better idea of what to do to get the most of out them.
I am having a set made by Tom Fowler from OPM. they are threaded Aluminum body and adjustable from compression and rebound. We’re in que, but building is 6-8 weeks. Tom was very helpful once he realizes your not rice. he offered to make them in single adjustable to save money, but I oppted for double. he can also spec out a non-threaded steel body that uses a collar, unit #3011, this would save even more money. all custom valved and of course, and they have to be DIRECT fitment as per SCCA.
thats really about it. I told him I was going to be sunday driving the car and doing track days… he was really pretty open and non-judgemental (you know us street guys can be looked down on). What has been happening dude? hows the house going? we need to come down to hang before summers all gone
peace
Schu
Neuspeed Front upper strut bar
Generic C-Pillar and rear upper strut bar (Parrot)
Megan Racing lower strut bar
No alignment settings. Just installed shocks and springs and went autoXing. I’ll probably add a camber kit during the off season. What should the negative camber be around?
Your camber is probably close to where you want it, so I doubt you’ll need a kit, but if you haven’t aligned the car since lowering it, you might want to take it in and get the toe looked at. Maybe that’s causing some of your issues. You may be able to check out the toe yourself by measuring the distance from the left wheel/tire to the right at both the front and rear of the wheel. I did this the other night and was able to fix my toe quite a bit(the car went from nearly undriveable to damn near perfect).
Also, a larger rear sway should help the car rotate better.
Thanks, I’ll probably see if I can get the firestone shops in the area offer the lifetime alignment service (read about it somewhere on this site). I plan on replacing the suspension bushings eventually, I did some research on rear sway bars a while back. Looks like my mod list is getting longer (as they normally do). Thanks again.
I’ve been competing in STS. I figure it’s cheaper than Prepared or Mod, but still gives me the ability to run the suspension I want plus i/h/e. Did you do anything to your ECU? STS allows that, but I’m not really sure what options or gains since I’m running a 91.
I installed some random chip(got the program from one of the members here a few years ago), but I’m not sure if there were any gains associated with it. It did raise my rev limitter which was pretty nice.
-nino
I run -2.5 camber in the front and -1 in the rear. Right now my tire pressures are 35 in the front and 28 in the rear. I’m running HP coilovers with KYB AGX’s 2 in the front 4 in the rear, stock bushings, new rear trailing arm bushings, and no p/s. When I lowered the tires pressure in the rear it made a hell of a difference. The first time I ran these pressures I spun out at the end of a slalom. But once I got the hang of it, it got rid of the understeering your probably getting mid corner to corner exit.
[QUOTE=integrada9]+more 3psi for rear tires is better!!!
Not really. Ask Ben Ogle about this he will tell you the same thing he told me. Less tire pressure equals more slip angle meaning more oversteer. I ran the same tire pressures he is running and like I said it surprised the shit out of me. 35 front 28 rear is the way to go.
tokico blues hp kit one inch drop
pressure :
front 40 psi
rear 40-45 (45 is the max i have ever gone and for me it made the car twitchy in a good way but almost a little too alive for me to correct fast enough)
generally I have found an even pressure all around keeps the car more predictable
you ask why so high a pressure in general. well everyday street tires have no sidewall
and azenis or something similar are for next year
depending on the track conditions
I may bump the rears more or less than the front in order to get the car to essentially rotate better and not plow in turns
