Hey Guys,
I got a really good deal on a full b16 swap (trans/engine/axles) and had a DA shell so I placed it into the DA with the use of Hasport mounts + Hydro to Cable conversion setup. Now I’m running a socketed p28 on a b16 (99 civic si) base-map and think I definitely need some more torque. I’m wanting to put together a nice turbo setup for this car but I’m not sure how fast the car will end up being. I’d like to keep it to a little under 2k spent (used products is fine) and that’s on the essentials (FMIC/Turbo/Manifold/Wastegate/BoV/Pipes).
If anyone has any advice on this setup (b16 turbo) in a 93 DA then please shed some light on this matter. I’m being told buy an LS swap and put back in it then turbo that… but that’s going to cost me more money than just turboing the b16 and the b16 only has about 72K miles on it. So it’s still fresh.
Also if ANYONE knows somebody or has had one of these setups themselves please let me know what kinda expectations to have for this setup!?
Lemme know what you guys think,
Thanks,
John
There are people out there who have run the GenII Drag kit at like 7psi on B16s and put down anywhere from 220 to 250whp and about 160wtq. Look up their kit and try to find those parts used to try and keep your costs down… The kit that Drag is selling now (the Gen3) runs close to 3k.
Also there are people who have pushed 400whp on a completely stock B16 block with a good turbo kit and turbo manifold. As long as the B16 you have is healthy you can get some good power out of it with a quality turbo and exhaust manifold. You can go cheap on some of the stuff like piping, hose clamps, intercooler etc… but if you go cheap on the turbo or turbo manifold you’re going to have to crank up the psi to get the same amount of power than if you had a quality manifold and turbo. If you need a complete parts list, this is from my local builder/tuner Cortney Green:
Here is a rundown
Ebay log manifold REV-HARD knockoff
Garrett T3/TO4E 50, 57 or 60 trim turbocharger .63 ar stg3 only
Tial 38mm gate
50mm blow of valve
2.5 inch SS downpipe
2.5 inch aluminum IC piping
2.5 inch slicone couplers and standard worm gear clamps. T-bolts add $35
1.5 inch SS dumptube
Oil feed and return kit (includes oil return flange)
500hp bar and plate intercooler
Walbro 255lph HP pump with installation kit
Bosch 750cc or 1000cc injectors (saturated) No resistor box needed!
NepTune base map
NGK spark plugs pre gapped
Oil pan gasket
Misc bolts and hardware
and that rough outline of parts will top out at about 500hp.
Or you could always just get an eBay turbo kit and bolt it on. But tuning is going to be crucial regardless of what you do. That is the part that you most definitely dont want to scrimp on.
I have a couple friends who have bought the eBay kit ($700 or so) and then sold the turbo and manifold to recoup some money, then buy a quality turbo and manifold… That should put you right about at that $2,000 mark you’re talking about.
The world of turbo can be a complicated one, but dont let people tell you that the B16 can’t make good power, because thats a flat out lie. Granted, there is no replacement for displacement, but the high-revving B16 is definitely still a contender if the turbo kit is suited for the motor. Do some searching around and see what size turbo people are running on their B16 and that should give you an idea of what to look for.
I’m actually running the set up that unified 11 said, I’m actually on a base map and 450cc injectors I’m not yet dynoed but feel real good base mapped by courtney as well trust me its worth he money to get a good turbo and mani. I’ve gone through quite a few motors for not having a good turbo or tune
Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it. Buying an eBay turbo kit and scooping up a better turbo/manifold don’t sound like a bad idea at all, I’ve had my eyes on a Blox Manifold which has the wastegate at the collector rather than on any of the runners which would help.
Yea, I know turbo roads aren’t the easiest in the world. My previous build was a 95 Eagle Talon w/6bolt swap running 12.4 till I finally separated from her. So I just got to find my comfort zone in the Honda/Acura game and I should be good to go.
I was looking over information on the “Log” vs a “Ram” or even a “Mini Ram” and I think I’d actually spring for a better manifold/turbo as I’d rather ensure I do that part of the setup right the first time around. http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=925312 and just reading that makes me want a Mini-Ram at least rather than a full ram. But I’ll probably stick to a Log type until I get the cash together for a good Ram-type setup.
Here is a rundown
Ebay log manifold REV-HARD knockoff
Garrett T3/TO4E 50, 57 or 60 trim turbocharger .63 ar stg3 only
Tial 38mm gate
50mm blow of valve
2.5 inch SS downpipe
2.5 inch aluminum IC piping
2.5 inch slicone couplers and standard worm gear clamps. T-bolts add $35
1.5 inch SS dumptube
Oil feed and return kit (includes oil return flange)
500hp bar and plate intercooler
Walbro 255lph HP pump with installation kit
Bosch 750cc or 1000cc injectors (saturated) No resistor box needed!
NepTune base map
NGK spark plugs pre gapped
Oil pan gasket
Misc bolts and hardware
I like the info you’ve given me so far tho, I greatly appreciate all of it!
Thanks,
John
Why would it cost you more money to boost a b16? Sure the tuning may cost a little more but other than that I don’t see the problem.
“I’m being told buy an LS swap and put back in it then turbo that… but that’s going to cost me more money than just turboing the b16 and the b16 only has about 72K miles on it”
He’s saying it would cost more to buy an LS then going turbo, like people are telling him, instead of turbo’ing the B16 he already has.