B16 Turbo E85 Sputter/Bogging Issues...... SMH

My Tuner and I checked the fuel pressure it’s normal, hooked up the laptop and AFR’s and tune looks fine. I rewired the MAP sensor again, and switched out MAP sensors. The only thing that fixed it was when we switched the §§§§§ off my tuners race car, the car made a few clean pulls up the road. So we replaced the igniter and coil with one from a 93ish accord (only one we could find laying around) and replaced the rotor and cap both brand new units.
Problem still remains after replacing parts in my old §§§§§. So i’m thinking I need a new §§§§§ all together. I pulled the §§§§§ off my Daily Driver which is a OEM b17 §§§§§ and the car still sputtered, I just replaced the igniter and coil in that §§§§§ about 5 months ago. Any ideas if I just need a fresh NEW §§§§§ or is it something else?

Hopefully the vid below helps a lil, that is a WOT pull gas pedal to the floor:p
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlPTEnYh_04&feature=player_embedded

my car was doing the exact same thing on the dyno and it was the boost cut. it was set at 15psi when i was trying to hit around 18-20psi.

I’m thinking it might be that too, cause when I go 1/4 throttle and don’t floor it doesn’t sputter until boost ramps up or enough load is put on it, if you floor the pedal ASAP it obviously builds full boost and sputters. I need to get a boost gauge:/ we were going off my ECU via my tuners laptop on ECtune’s datalogging, it was claiming my car was only hitting 8psi so I dunno.

To answer this We need more info.

What plugs are you running?
What are your plugs gapped to?
Is your §§§§§ set at correct timing using a timing light with car idling around 850 rpms and ignition adjust stopped by putting cel jumper in or disabled in code?
What size fuel injectors?
How much psi are you running?
What map sensor are you running ?
Do you have any check engine lights? If so what are they.

We will start with these questions and go from there. Your tuner should be able to help you with issue.

[QUOTE=OHIO4DRDA;2196553]To answer this We need more info.

What plugs are you running?
What are your plugs gapped to?
Is your §§§§§ set at correct timing using a timing light with car idling around 850 rpms and ignition adjust stopped by putting cel jumper in or disabled in code?
What size fuel injectors?
How much psi are you running?
What map sensor are you running ?
Do you have any check engine lights? If so what are they.

We will start with these questions and go from there. Your tuner should be able to help you with issue.[/QUOTE]

NGK 9’s
they are gapped to .28
timing is on point
900cc injectors
9psi
stock map sensor
No CEL’s

Did some more troubleshooting tonight, tired the same distributor off my tuners car again, this time the car broke up with the distributor unlike last time. so I have ruled the distributor out of the problem circle, switch to a whole entire different ECU with another chip burned onto it, still broke up @ WOT. so at this point i’ve replaced or checked everything. only thing left to replace is the fuel pump, I will be pulling the walbro out and replacing it with a aeromotive in tank pump this weekend hopefully!

why not check your fuel pressure before pulling out a possibly good working pump?

What are your AF number under boost?
Do you have an EGT gauge? If so what is it reading?

Sorry for 50 questions just want be able to help with good answers.

You need to check your fuel pressure under load aka while driving under boost to see if it could be dropping off(maybe fuel pump or filter issue). Also have you changed you fuel filter since switching to E85 you need to change it at least 3 time in the 1st 1000 miles to make sure everything that was cleaned out of the line and tank for the ethanol is not clogging it. In that line of thinking you might have a clogged fuel injector clean out the little filters on each injector.

Now on to timing have you pulled your plugs after doing a pull/run to see how they look?
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp is a great site for understanding the different plugs readings.

Please keep us updated I might have left a couple of things out but if you have questions ask.

I already checked the fuel pressure it was in the 35-38psi range at idle and I think 40-42 @ WOT. I have a stock regulator as well. just had bad luck in the past with walbro units for some odd reason. but the good news is I didn’t have to replace the pump today, pulled it out cause it has been making a loud whining noise, (louder than the usual walbro 255 pump) and found a good amount of dirt and crap from the E85 cleaning out the tank in the pump sock, it seemed to be clogging up. replaced it with a new sock, that loud sound went away, just the normal walbro whine:) bad news is the car is still breaking up. replaced fuel filter yesterday. so you think it got to my injectors? i’m gonna swtich the plugs to NGK 7’s because apparently 9’s are way too cold of a plug for the power i’m at currently. hopefully at this point I hope the car just really needs a retune to cure the problem and maybe try another §§§§§ out, cause I have a hunch.

[QUOTE=OHIO4DRDA;2196772]What are your AF number under boost?
Do you have an EGT gauge? If so what is it reading?

Sorry for 50 questions just want be able to help with good answers.

You need to check your fuel pressure under load aka while driving under boost to see if it could be dropping off(maybe fuel pump or filter issue). Also have you changed you fuel filter since switching to E85 you need to change it at least 3 time in the 1st 1000 miles to make sure everything that was cleaned out of the line and tank for the ethanol is not clogging it. In that line of thinking you might have a clogged fuel injector clean out the little filters on each injector.

Now on to timing have you pulled your plugs after doing a pull/run to see how they look?
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp is a great site for understanding the different plugs readings.

Please keep us updated I might have left a couple of things out but if you have questions ask.[/QUOTE]

not sure it doesn’t stay under boost very long, it’s like it builds 7psi and then hits 4,800 full boost and starts to sputters, so doesn’t really get going into boost much at all. no EGT gauge and no wideband on the car, just using my tuners laptop to datalog and his wideband. if I remember the AFR’s where around 12.2-12.5 under WOT full boost.

Have you check your wastegate to make sure you are not spiking?
Also did you replace both fuel filters the one under to hood and intank? i know you mention you replace the the fuel filter i just want to clarify that it was both of them.
Side note E85 will clean every spec of dirt out of your tank and line so replacing the filter often is important.
Switch to 7’s is a good idea if you are under 10 psi are you going with ngk stock number 4091 gapped at .030?
Also did your tuner adjust his wideband for E85 just had to ask.

[QUOTE=OHIO4DRDA;2196982]Have you check your wastegate to make sure you are not spiking?
Also did you replace both fuel filters the one under to hood and intank? i know you mention you replace the the fuel filter i just want to clarify that it was both of them.
Side note E85 will clean every spec of dirt out of your tank and line so replacing the filter often is important.
Switch to 7’s is a good idea if you are under 10 psi are you going with ngk stock number 4091 gapped at .030?
Also did your tuner adjust his wideband for E85 just had to ask.[/QUOTE]

my boost gauge is reading 8psi right before it sputters, so no spiking.
yeah I replace both filters… this is what I found in the in tank fuel sock last night

changed out the walbro 255 fuel sock, this is the one that came out after about 1,000 miles of driving and tuning on E85…
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e138/Ciscero/dookiepump.jpg

I thought for sure I had solved the problem but still sputters:/ think any of it got to the injectors? I switched out my fuel filter the other day as well. you guys think I should take it back to my tuner for a retune and switch to the NGK 7’s? or would running plugs WAY too cold cause the car to break up from the plugs fouling out due to not burning off efficiently. My tuner hasn’t tuned that many E85 cars because E85 isn’t really available around NC. I dunno if he adjusted his wideband for E85 either.

I would have it retuned and clean your injectors.
Have pulled your plugs yet to read them after doing a pull/run.
when you put your 7’s in do a pull and see what they look like that will tell you majority of your issues.

[QUOTE=OHIO4DRDA;2196992]I would have it retuned and clean your injectors.
Have pulled your plugs yet to read them after doing a pull/run.
when you put your 7’s in do a pull and see what they look like that will tell you majority of your issues.[/QUOTE]

this was taken from a reputable tuner off honda-tech…

“You won’t be able to see fouling on the plugs with E85, they will look brand new clean and can still be fouled. Because of how cold Ethanol runs you don’t need to run a cold plug like you do with gasoline”.

[QUOTE=8URV8;2197005]this was taken from a reputable tuner off honda-tech…

“You won’t be able to see fouling on the plugs with E85, they will look brand new clean and can still be fouled. Because of how cold Ethanol runs you don’t need to run a cold plug like you do with gasoline”.[/QUOTE]

I agree about the fouling part but you can still check to see about heat marks on the strap and other misc signs. I have tuned 40 plus cars on E85 plus my own daily driver is on E85 so I understand the headaches you are going through reading the plugs can tell you everything about a motor. If you have anymore questions let me know.

yeah I just replaced the 9’s with 7’s tonight and the plugs didn’t seem to help. i’ve been stressing over this car all week i’m gonna take a break from it tmrw:tsk: