Well i found a good deal for a b17 shortblock in my area. I was gonna get it and do a complete rebuild on it. I see that it has 81.00mm bore, i was wondering it worth put b16b pistons in there. Has anyone on here built a b17 before?
I had a built B17A1, once or twice… even maybe 3 times.
How much are you getting it for?
I’m getting the short block for $200 in unknown condition and missing an oil pan. What pistons are u running in ur b17?
p30s are direct bolt in pistons, should bump the compression up to close to 11:1. Great for all motor. Paired with a mildly ported head, CTR cams and a good tune, she should pull like there’s no tomorrow to about 8400rpms. I plan to use p30s myself.
So my setup will be like this:
P30 Pistons
Shotpenned Rods w/ arp bolts
ACL Bearings
Fully balanced bottom end.
Inline Four Brozne Vavle Guides
Omni Power Springs. Valves, and Rentainers
ITR Exhaust Cam
CTR Intake Cam.
Would this setup be good for up to 9000-9500 RPM? I kno the should handle it with no problems, but i don’t kno if the Rods will last at 9000 RPM.
[QUOTE=hkshaitian;1774661]So my setup will be like this:
P30 Pistons
Shotpenned Rods w/ arp bolts
ACL Bearings
Fully balanced bottom end.
Inline Four Brozne Vavle Guides
Omni Power Springs. Valves, and Rentainers
ITR Exhaust Cam
CTR Intake Cam.
Would this setup be good for up to 9000-9500 RPM? I kno the should handle it with no problems, but i don’t kno if the Rods will last at 9000 RPM.[/QUOTE]
Your setup is very similar to what I have in mind for mine.
First go with OEM bearings. ACL bearings are one size so the rods would each have to be machined to fit the ACLs. With OEM bearings you can just buy what will fit properly and you’re good to go. Same goes for the main bearings.
Second forget the omnipower stuff. OEM ITR springs are just fine, and I highly recommend OEM retainers. Titanium retainers will have to be inspected on a consistent basis. They tend to wear much faster and the weight savings are only good for maybe 50rpms. So it’s really not worth it.
Get a set of high compression valves. They will give you a little bump in compression as well. A 3 angle valve job would be ideal here. Definately look at Ferrea here.
Port/polish the head. Make sure the machine shop that assembles the head knows how to do this for a honda. Don’t need to worry about milling the head. I don’t see it as a necessity for your build.
I don’t know that you need the bronze valve guides but I guess if you’ve got it all apart why not.
Look into a slightly lighter flywheel and a good clutch. 11lbs would be great.
Finally it’s tune time. Find someone local who is damn good with OBD1 honda tuning.
ITR/CTR cams aren’t meant to carry power out to 9grand. For that you need to look at stage2 or 3 cams from skunk, buddyclub, toda, blox, etc. However, the ITR/CTR cams are damn good, and you shold be able to run to 8400-8500 rpms with no problems whatsoever.
IF you can snag one, I also recommend trying to get your hands on the fabled P30 intake manifold. If not, try and secure an ITR one with a matching throttle body.
Enjoy.
Revving to 9/9.5k is not too hard.
Making power to 9/9/5k is hard.
To make power to 9/9.5k will take a lot of fine tuning and $$$$
Skunk2 stages 2 cams and gears or equivalent. (have a set for sale)
Ported Head B17/B16 (takes experience=$$$)
A ported and port matched Intake Manifold.
A proper throttle body.
A quality header (have a mint Greddy for sale)
A light fly wheel (have a 7.5 lbs for sale)
A complete bottom end balance.
This includes the crank pulley, flywheel with bolts, clutch assembly with bolts, rods, pistons, crank and anything else that spins on the bottom end.
The stock injectors are fine providing that they flowing as they should.
Stock fuel rail is fine.
A cold air intake… or a OEM ITR intake arm and air box.
My shot peened B17A Rods held up fine to 9.5k daily and months of a 75 wet shot. (for sale with arp bolts)
You can also consider a knife edge crank to help get the rpms into the power band quicker.
[QUOTE=db2;1774716]Revving to 9/9.5k is not too hard.
Making power to 9/9/5k is hard.
To make power to 9/9.5k will take a lot of fine tuning and $$$$
Skunk2 stages 2 cams and gears or equivalent. (have a set for sale)
Ported Head B17/B16 (takes experience=$$$)
A ported and port matched Intake Manifold.
A proper throttle body.
A quality header (have a mint Greddy for sale)
A light fly wheel (have a 7.5 lbs for sale)
A complete bottom end balance.
This includes the crank pulley, flywheel with bolts, clutch assembly with bolts, rods, pistons, crank and anything else that spins on the bottom end.
The stock injectors are fine providing that they flowing as they should.
Stock fuel rail is fine.
A cold air intake… or a OEM ITR intake arm and air box.
My shot peened B17A Rods held up fine to 9.5k daily and months of a 75 wet shot. (for sale with arp bolts)
You can also consider a knife edge crank to help get the rpms into the power band quicker.[/QUOTE]
what are you asking for your stage 2 cams
not going to jack homeboys thread…nor is this the for sale section.
shoot me an email-roniezspace(at)gmail(dot)com
Thanks for all the advise guys. But it looks like i’m gonna get da b17 after all. I’m just gonna use a ls that i have sitting in the back of my house, and go ls/v.
why?
Idk, wouldn’t a ls/v make as much power as a b17?
an lsv would make a good amount more useable power. as for revving to 9k+, the primary part of the set up that will determine the shape of ur graph (powerband) is the im
I plan to go with a itr manifold on a b16 head
If you are going LS/VTEC, I would like to buy the short block from you.
He’s not revving to 9.xK on a ls/vtec. Unless you know some one that has built a few of them before.
He would be better off running that stock b17a with bolt ons.
He can make power to 8.5k with ITR/CIR valve train and a ITR manifold/throttle body combo, ITR/CTR cams and a decent header.
He can leave the bottom BONE STOCK…short of a thinner head gasket to bump up the compression a little. Not to mention a little compression bump if he chooses the right valves.
Here’s my take on LSVs . . . you’re putting a vtec head on a block that was never intended to have a vtec head on it. The vtec blocks are equipped with the proper cooling, clearances, etc specifically for vtec heads. why mess with a good thing.
also just fyi the b17 is supposed to be the most square block whatever that’s worth to you.
Yea i see wat u guys are saying. Well it look like i’m just gonna rebuild that LS for my bro’s ej1. I still saving but i think i may of found someone with a b18c1 block. Wat’s ur take on a b17 verses a b18c1?
LOL! and please tell me the benefit of a near square block vs. non square?
Square pistons, duh.
at the end of the day, the motor with larger displacement will net more average hp & tq across the board